Philipponnat Clos has a very special place in my collection. Back in 2015, I was doing a vineyard tour with Tim Wildman, MW and I asked him what his favorite Champagne was. He very quickly answered: Phlipponnat, Clos des Goisses. That was a great tip as I later found out. Clos des Goisses is indeed one of Champagne’s most iconic and revered wines, with a history rooted in its exceptional vineyard. It is one of the only 39 Clos in Champagne. This is of particular importance because the entire Champagne is only one single appellation, not like Burgundy where you have 1500 lieu dits. That means even prestigious Crus like Dom Perignon or Roederer Cristal can come from anywhere and its volume can be expanded almost indefinitely as long as the grapes come from Champagne. With a Clos it is different. The grapes can only come from this Clos. The other famous Clos Champagne are Krug Clos du Mesnil, Billecart-Salmon Clos St.Hillaire and Bollinger Vieille Vignes Francaise.
Acquired by Philipponnat in 1935, Clos des Goisses is a 5.83-hectare walled vineyard in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, recognized for its unique terroir. The steep, south-facing slope, considered one of the warmest in Champagne, ensures exceptional ripeness of its grapes, which are primarily Pinot Noir with some Chardonnay. Its chalky soils and full exposure to sunlight contribute to the wine’s distinct power, minerality, and complexity.
The name “Goisses” itself derives from a local term for a difficult-to-cultivate, steep hillside. What makes Clos des Goisses so special to collectors is its remarkable ability to balance richness with longevity. Clos des Goisses is vinified in oak, with malolactic fermentation typically blocked to preserve acidity and structure, creating a wine that is both muscular and elegant. Its low dosage and extended lees aging further emphasize its concentration and depth, making it a favorite for those seeking a wine with intensity and complexity that evolves beautifully over decades.
My first visit to Philipponnat was after the notorious 2-year Singapore Covid lock down and de facto travel ban. We enjoyed it even more. Marketing manager Nicoletta de Nicole gave us a wonderful tour and tasting.
Tasting notes of Philipponnat Clos des Goisses
Vintages 2010-2015
2015 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses, 96 points
Very aromatic nose with white flowers on the top note, underpinned with lemon, baking spices, croissants. Fresh and succulent. Wonderful.
2013 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses, 96 points
Domaine visit. An excellent rendition of Clos de Goisses. Chiseled and precise with the generosity of the vineyard. Citrus elements with a lot of earthy, floral and spicy elements. Delineated, precise. High upside potential from here. 96-97+
2012 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses, 98 points
From Jero. I went to this with great anticipation after having tasted so many good, high end Champagnes already. It did not let me down. Very youthful but very expressive with generous pinot spice, flowers, 2012 charm and excellent freshness
2011 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses, 94 points
A good outcome from the measle 2011 vintage. A BdN this vintage as they discarded all the Chard in 2011. Clean and fresh, good mid mouth volume but not the complexity of the 2009 side by side today
Vintages 2000-2009
2009 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses, 95 points
After some air beautiful and complex nose of orchard fruit, smoke, earthy elements, quince. Rich and structured palate. Excellent showing, some aahs and oohs of Bordeaux drinkers who are not into Champagne.
2004 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses, 96 points
Discrete nose of flowers, brioche with a strong mineralic, citrus side. Very precise and racy on the palate, good richness though, aromatically almost like a blanc de blancs now, even though this is a Pinot led wine. Excellent quality. Does not show much tertiary aromas yet, can add on complexity but the underlying material is very strong.
2003 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses, 96 points
Excellent showing of this, got lots of nods at the table. Mature with beautiful notes of bruised apples, orchard fruit, some earthy elements as well. Structured, fine perlage. I like high quality Pinot-led old Champagne like this one. They feel like a refined mature white Burg with Champagne aromatics and less alcohol and no premox problems. What’s not to like.
On top of Clos des Goisses with the view on the Marne Canale
2002 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses, 98 points
The 2002 Clos des Goisses is a spectacular Champagne. Lemon color with orange hue, unlike the 04, the 2002 is fully in the drinking window with an expressive nose of tertiary notes around bruised apples, yeast, cider, brioche, mandarin, wonderful. Apparently the 2002 is more a Chardonnay year at CdG I was told and has aged slightly faster as usual due to the ripeness of the vintage. Grande!
2001 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses, 95 points
Dark yellow with amber hue. Discrete nose of some sandal wood, cigar box notes with golden pear. Savory and rich the palate, earthy, with lots of dry extract in the foreground. Reminds me of the Pol Roger Winston Churchill style. On the finish ever so slightly notes of bruised apples and cinnamon appear. This is by far the most masculine Champagne I ever had. 13% Alc, deeply pitched. To be consumed with food and definitely not apero. It opened up considerably after 30min. Decanting advised 95-96
Vintages 1990-1999
1999 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses, 95 points
From MAG. Golden yellow. Wonderfully floral and citrus nose with elements of brioche. Rich and creamy with very good freshness. Great length.
1998 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses, 93 points
Pink color. This had an overtly oxidative touch with mushrooms, nuts, orange rind and bruised apples. Still very drinkable esp. for those who like a bit of oxidation in their older Champagne. Is see a lot of mentioning of oxidation in other tasting notes so I guess this was not bottle variation. Clearly past peak, drink up. The 1999 next to it was pristine and fresh.
1998 Philipponnat L.V. (Long Vieilleissement) Clos des Goisses, 95 points
During a Matter of Taste dinner, no detailed tasting notes. From MAG. Right upon opening very fresh, more like a 2008 than a 1998. Nose of green apples, pear, some herbs. With time in the glass the full spectrum on a mature Champagne started to emerge. Wonderful
1992 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses, 99 points
A collector brought this MAG to a BYO tasting. This was a good as it gets. Lots of brioche, floral, intensely aromatic and fresh. It really confirms how well aged Magnums can perform. 99-100
1991 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses, 97 points
From MAG. Another wonderful CdG. Deep and complex nose of nutty flavors, bee wax, bakery, flowers. Fresh and not too oxidative for its age. Great perlage. A very grand champagne
Author: Christian Raubach, WSET III, FWS, Champagne Master
December 2021