Smule Elbaz, founder of Limited Cellars organizes the Paulée de Genève usually in May at the location of Chez Bacchus, Bar à Vin, Rive Gauche. Limited Cellars specializes in rare and collectible wines for enthusiasts and collectors, among others they import Domaine Ramonet. When Samuel asked me if I was interested to join his Paulée I was of course enthusiastic and quickly checked if I can fit this into my calendar. it was a good decision. The participants were well selected and the wines were high end, including some Domaine owners being present. Below are the tasting notes of some remarkable wines opened.
Tasting Notes
Whites
2016 Thenard Montrachet, 96 Points
Rich and generous with good freshness. Lots of citrus top nots.
2014 des Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Charmes, 98 Points
In the as good as it gets category, flinty, lemon zest, fresh and racy. Wow!
2016 Matrot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes, 95 Points
Flinty with herbs and green vegetables. Fresh.
2011 Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Boudriotte, 95 Points
From DMG. Fresh and flinty, lots of lime. Excellent.
1966 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos, 97 Points
Beautiful tertiary aromas, aged but not oxidized, almonds, herbs, farmyard notes. In such good shape for its advanced age.
2010 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos, 96 Points
Tasted next to the 1966, which was still in excellent shape. Both wines great. This one obiously much more youthful, with great reductive aromas, fresh, precise.
2005 Ramonet Puligny-Montrachet Les Enseignères, 94 Points
From DMG. Rich and herbal, the generous vintage is visible. Good acidity to balance the weight.
Reds
2005 de la Romanée-Conti Grands-Echezeaux, 98 Points
Very youthful, I would not open this before 2028. A pleasure today but so much more to come. Aromatically not yet mature. The structure here is excellent, rich but deleniated.
2001 de la Romanée-Conti Echezeaux, 96 Points
From MAG. Great mature noes fo cured meat and red fruit, spices. Good mid palate. 96+
2011 Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin, 97 Points
Very nice showing, early drinking window. Elegant, precise, with whole clusters, complex. Very popular at the table tonight..
2009 Armand Rousseau Ruchottes-Chambertin, 96 Points
Great showing, generous mid palate, complex aromas, married the warm vintage with elegant wine making.
1999 Robert Groffier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Sentiers, 95 Points
Firing from all cilinders. Rich red fruit, feels youthful almost, good mid palate. In top shape after 20 years.
2015 Gros Frère et Sœur Richebourg, 95 Points
Very beautiful nose, earhty, meaty notes with red fruit. Good freshness on the palate, may be a touch too light after the promise from the bouquet. Nose 96, palate 94
2009 Comte Georges de Vogüé Bonnes Mares, 95 Points
Young, good structure and aromas, still some oak to integrate.
2017 Armand Rousseau Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques, 95 Points
Youthful, but very promising. Tannins softer than other vintages I had from this. Best after 2030.
1972 Maison Leroy Bourgogne, 95 Points
In very good shape, excelletn tertairy aromas with underbrush and cured meat. Just stunning what madame does with a regional level wine.
2015 Armand Rousseau Mazy-Chambertin, 97 Points
Very young but absolutely top. Ripe, yet precise and complex. Best after 2030.
2015 Prieuré Roch Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots, 95 Points
Great whole cluster notes intermixed with ripe fruit. Can add a point from here once mature.
2018 de la Vougeraie Vougeot 1er Cru Clos Blanc de Vougeot, 95 Points
Contender for the most succulent wine of the night. Expressive nose with lemon, butter, spices, combined with flinty elements, rich yet fresh. They managed 2018 well here. A discovery!
Author: Christian Raubach, WSET III, FWS, WSG Champagne Master
May 2025