Domaine des Lambrays, is another historic and famous Burgundy estate partially due to the fact that it is is a near Monopole for the Clos de Lambrays Grand Cru (8.66ha), one of the four Grand Crus in Morey-Saint-Denis. Clos St.Denis, Clos de La Roche, Clos de Tart (a Monopole) are the others. There is a small parcel in Clos de Lambrays that is owned by Taupenot-Merme, but when people talk about Clos de Lambrays they almost always refer to the wine made by the Domaine de Lambrays. Less known, the Domaine also owns holdings Puligny-Montrachet, making attractive whites there as well and thus contributing to a diverse yet focused portfolio.
The Domaine is real jewel. Both the vineyard and the winery are stunning with an idyllic garden around the estate. Estate director. Jacques Devauges took a lot of time to walk us through the winery and its completed renovation work. He influenced the design of the new winery as well. One interesting detail is the new gravity concept. The winery can fully function by gravity with an ingenious system of two extra transfer steel tanks mounted on an elevator, which allows not only wine making but even transfer of wines from barrel to bottle without using pumps anywhere in the process. There is a lot of precision in this estate. They vinify the sub-plots in the Clos separately as can be seen by all the different barrels with the name of the plot on them. In the end they blend all 11 plots. There is no second wine like in Clos de Tart, but the separate elevage allows individual choices to be made for oak type and time in barrel.
In 2014, the Domaine underwent a significant change in ownership when it was purchased by the luxury conglomerate LVMH (Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy) from the Freund family, who had owned the estate after acquiring it in the early 1990s. As mentioned in my report on Bonneau du Martray, this acquisition is also a double edged sword for the consumer. The quality of the wine is certainly at a different level now after all the investments that were made, but so is the price, which doubled from one release to the other. My current assessment also here is that it is probably on the upper end of the market. I draw this conclusion from the unsold quantities in the market and the number of times I see this wine being actively pitched by merchants. Since the quality leap of the wines is also visible in their Morey 1er Crus, which sell for a fraction of Clos de Lambrays, they are definitely worth a closer look. They performed well in our tasting.
Wines tasted at the Domaine and subsequent days in Burgundy
Whites
2022 Domaine des Lambrays Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières, 94 Points
I did not have the whites on my radar screen before this visit. They showed well, very classic. elegant, fresh wines with creamy palate. Wonderfully elegant and precise. Lemon cream with a touch of tropical fruit. Very Puligny in style—elegant and delicious. 93–95.
2022 Domaine des Lambrays Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos du Cailleret, 95 Points
A “Clos within the Clos.” Precise lemon with subtle oak, white peaches, and excellent dry extract. Stunningly elegant and a clear step up from the Folatiers. 95+
Reds
2022 Domaine des Lambrays Morey St. Denis, 92 Points
Domaine visit. 20% new oak. A pleasant mix of blue and red fruit, vanilla, and velvety texture. Expressive and balanced. 91–93.
2022 Domaine des Lambrays Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Clos Baulet, 94 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis 1er Cru
Plot directly below the château. Smoky, with notes of licorice and sous-bois. Wonderfully aromatic and complex. Brown soil adds depth. A standout! 93–95.
2022 Domaine des Lambrays Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Clos Sorbé, 93 Points
Domaine visit. Very different from Clos Baulet. Lighter and more elegant with red fruit, spices, and red soil influence. Distinct terroir expression, though less complex than the Baulet next to it.
2019 Domaine des Lambrays Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Les Loups, 94 Points
A really complete Morey 1er Cru. Soft and polished palate with blue fruit and sweet spices. A touch of gingerbread.
2022 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays, 96 Points
As mentioned above, this is a blend of all 11 plots. Impressive precision and depth. A grand expression of dark and red fruit with undeniable sophistication. Polished, precise dark fruit. 95-97
2014 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays, 95+ Points
This was served on a BYO dinner by Boris Champy a day later from Jero. Superb showing with very nice green whole cluster lift to the beautiful cool blue fruit, precise. Shows what large formats can do when it comes to aging. A very classy effort from a cooler vintage.
Author: Christian Raubach, WSET III, FWS, WSG Champagne Master
November 2024