Domaine Bonneau du Martray is one of the most iconic names in Corton Charlemagne. The 11 ha estate has been famous for centuries, from Charlemagne himself who ordered to plant grapes here in 775, to the Monks, to the Bonneau to Martray family and since 1969 the le Bault de la Morinière family. Because of its significant size there it was also not too difficult to source the wine and prices were quite attractive vs. peers. The estate has been managing the vineyard well with organic and bio-dynamic practices. Of course there also have been premox issues here and there during the time when this was rampant in Burgundy (1995-2010), but that aside the quality has been solid and consistent. There is also a good red Corton but the estate is mostly been famous for its white.
A significant change occurred in 2017 when the Domaine was acquired by Stan Kroenke, the American entrepreneur who also owns Screaming Eagle in Napa Valley. This marked the first time in centuries that the property was no longer under local ownership, but such is the Globalized world where double and triple digit millions are shelled out for estates like this. Such acquisitions are both good and bad news. The good news is that high ambitions and new investments come to the estate. So no surprise when vineyard manager Fabien Esthor, who led our visit, confirmed to us that construction of a new winery will commence in 2025. This was confirmed during out visit, the quality of the wines is as good as they ever have been, see tasting notes below.
The bad news is that with such acquisitions prices move up significantly. For Bonneau du Matray (similar to Domaine de Lambrays we have seen a doubling of the price from one release to the next. While there certainly was room and reason for a price increase, I think both have moved the price too high, i.e., above market. Why do I think so? Because I see a lot of unsold wine in the market and I receive a lot of emails from merchants pitching these wine. This is completely in contrast to other top names (eg, Ramonet, Frourrier) which are allocated in homeopathic quantities and rarely appear on a website of a respectable Burgundy merchant. We will see over the next few years where the equilibrium lies.
Vineyard manager Fabien Esthor who walked us through the winery and cellar
Wines tasted during the Domain visit and subsequent days in Burgundy
Whites
2022 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne, 95 Points
Fresh and light with aromas of green apple, grapefruit, and a hint of herbs. Similar in style to Alvina Pernot which we visited earlier in the day. Youthful and vibrant. Set for release in one year. 94–96.
2020 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne, 96 Points
A beautifully complete nose with vibrant, complex, and integrated aromas. Precise and harmonious. A favorite vintage of the domaine. 95–97.
2014 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne, 96+ Points
Served blind as a guessing game to us. Displays a reductive character with grassy, mineralic, and flinty notes. Green apple dominates. My personal favorite, showcasing exceptional precision. 95–97.
2010 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne, 95 Points
In very good shape for its age. Opens with lemon, a touch of red apples. Very fresh, flinty even. Creamy palate.
2011 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne, 94 Points
During the Paulée de Meursault. Nose of lemon, a touch of wax, still with lots of energy. Has some tertiary patina, but not oxidative. Much more mature than the 2010.
Reds
2022 Bonneau du Martray Corton Rouge, 95 Points
Smoky with licorice accents, cool and fresh. Displays remarkable precision, with well-managed tannins and less extraction. Sourced from within the Corton-Charlemagne plot and not from the plots on the hill of Corton where the most Grand Cru reds come from. 94–96.
Author: Christian Raubach, WSET III, FWS, WSG Champagne Master
November 2024
