Clos de Vougeot 2002 horizontal

This dinner was staged by a collector friend over a Chinese New Year dinner in Singapore with lots of experienced Burg lovers at the table. The overarching theme for me was that the nose was often a good notch ahead of the palate, showing the pedigree of a Grand Cru. On the palate however, there was often a streak of rusticity in these wines with a few exceptions. It seems to me, as a CdV producer your main focus should be to get the tannins right, everything else will then fall into place. My two favorite CdV Hudelot-Noellat and Denis Mortet were unfortunately not present at this tasting other than that the line up was stunning. Thanks to the very generous host who picked up the bill for the fine meal as well.

 

Tasting Notes

The wines were tasted blind in flights of four.

Flight 1

2002 Domaine Perrot-Minot Clos Vougeot, 90 Points
Clearly riper style, plum, torrefaction aromas. Unusual aroma profile but not uninteresting if you like such fuller style. Unfortunately there is a drying finish pointing towards over extraction. Aroma 92. Palate 88.

2002 Domaine Philippe Charlopin Clos Vougeot93 Points
Also here, clearly on the riper side. The palate is cleaner and more polished than the one from Perrot Minot. Earthy notes, dark fruit, a bit of heat on the finish unfortunately.

2002 Hervé Roumier Clos Vougeot, 96 Points
Ok, now we are talking. First wine in the tasting that fully impresses. Complex nose of musk, humus, red fruit, cured meat. Elegant palate, higher pitched, medium-light bodied, long finish. 96+

2002 Domaine Charles Thomas Clos Vougeot, 89 Points
Lovely nose, high pitched here as well but there is herbaceous side to it that is a bit worrisome. Other than that good, especially since I actually like that whole cluster, greenish touch in a good Pinot. The palate unfortunately confirms the fears. It is not in balance, too acidic/lean and drying tannins for the fruit it carries. Palate 87, Nose 92

 

Flight 2

2002 Gérard Raphet Clos Vougeot Vieilles Vignes93 Points
Frist time I see this producer. Very cool label with the iconic gate of the Clos on it. High pitched nose with red fruit, some blue berry as well, mushroom. The palate is a bit too rustic though for a higher score, slightly sour finish. Another wine where the nose is better than the palateClos Vougeot,

2002 Domaine Château De La Tour Clos Vougeot Vieilles Vignes, 95 Points
Brooding nose, lots going on here, deep, darker pitched, meaty, forest, smells like they have vinified the entire vineyard with the soil itself here. The palate is dense and full bodied, unfortunately a bit drying tannins on the finish. Nose 96, palate 94.

2002 Domaine Robert Arnoux / Arnoux-Lachaux Clos Vougeot, 96 Points
High pitched nose, musk, cured meat, earth. Elegant style on the palate as well a bit too acidic may be on the finish but I am just nit picking here. Very good showing tonight, popular at the table.

2002 Jean-Jacques Confuron Clos Vougeot, 94 Points
Great nose here, higher pitched, some whole cluster, musk, red fruit, dried meat. Light bodied palate, a bit of a whole in the middle, likeable but several people on the table did not find it had enough body. Interesting, several times we had wine that was too rustic and tanninc, now we also had one that could benefit from a bit more stuffing. Nose 95, palate 93.

 

Flight 3

2002 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Clos Vougeot, 95 Points
Clearly mature nose of autumn leaves, red and blue fruit, very complete. The palate was very soft, medium bodied, almost plush. Complete, almost too soft. Everybody was surprised to see that this is the Meo, which usually has quite tannic wines. The pleasure of blind tasting…

2002 Domaine Jean Grivot Clos Vougeot, 89 Points
Nose of dark fruit, licorice, humus. Rustic palate here, dry finish. Did not find many friends at the table tonight. I think Grivot makes more polished wines today than this one.

2002 Domaine Leroy Clos Vougeot, 96+ Points
Complex, high-pitched nose here as well. Red fruit, some funk, cured meat, humus, excellent stuff. The palate starts discretely and polished, then some tannins kick in. A very well balanced wine and one of the favorites of the night. Forget about the price ever since the Chinese have gone gaga for Leroy Clos Vougeot

2002 Domaine René Engel Clos Vougeot, 95 Points
High pitched nose here as well, red fruit, cured meat, some leather, horse saddle. Light palate, elegant, present acidity, a bit of a whole in the middle but nice wine nevertheless. Long aromatic finish.

Author: Christian Raubach, WSET III, FWS, WSG Champagne Master
February 2018