Grower Champagne 2014 dinner

This blind tasting over a dinner was held at Schloss Maienfeld, organized by Secli wine, Roger Bischof and Roger Zysset. As always, meticulously planned and executed. Great learning opportunity as well as the two Rogers are deep into the rabbit whole of all things Champagne, especially Growers.

 

Aperitif

2019 Weingut Wegelin Blauburgunder Crémant, 87 Points
Vinous nose, reminding me very much of a Rosé de Provence. Strawberry, sweet spices. Not bad but more for the aperitif.

2017 Dönnhoff Sekt Pinot Brut, 93 Points
Tasted blind. Complex Pinot nose with bruised apples, spice. Young and still quite foamy. Very good quality.

 

Blind Tasting

2014 Marie-Courtin Champagne Éloquence Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut, 95 Points
Initially closed in the nose, then opened up more and more. Lots of power on the palate with oak spice that could mislead you into Pinot ally here. Light, Selosse style oxidation, good finish. Excellent.

2014 Domaine de Marzilly Champagne Ullens Millésimé Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature, 94 Points
Discrete nose of bruised apples, very much in the grower style of Selosse, spice, wood. Complex palate with good finish. Just a notch behind the Marie-Courtin Eloquence Bdb which took the crown in this flight.

2014 Guiborat Fils Champagne Grand Cru De Caurés à Mont-Aigu, 93 Points
Discrete nose of bruised apples, strict, light oxidation, spicy wood. The palate cannot fully follow up here, a touch too light. Nose 95, palate 92

2014 Doré Champagne Premier Cru Brut Ludes, 88 Points
Clearly the weakest in this flight. Nose of citrus, some apples, quite light on the palate, dosage rescuing it a bit. Very much an entry level offering.

2014 Agrapart Champagne Grand Cru Minéral Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut, 92 Points
Fruity with overt citrus note, low oak bdb clearly from a strict producer. Still very foamy. Decent rather than great at the moment, clearly needs bottle time. 92-93

2014 La Rogerie Champagne Grand Cru Heroine, 92 Points
Nose of citrus oil, light brioche, more stuffing and ripeness here than with the Agrapart mineral next to it. Medium complexity and finish.

2014 Emmanuel Brochet Champagne Les Hauts Meuniers, 92 Points
Lots of bruised apples here, apple cider aromas as well. Quite some spice and acidic notes. For the purist, a bit tough to drink now.

2014 Huré Frères Pinot Noir Champagne 4 éléments, 95 Points
Nose of red apples, also some apple cider notes, spices, very Pinot. Precise and dry on the palate, lots of power and long finish. Very complete.

2014 Pierre Baillette Coeur de Craie Verzenay Grand Cru, 96 Points
Apparently this is produced by the estate of the wife of Chartogne-Taillett. Wow nose here, with citrus and white flowers. Fully agree on the previous tasting note. Hard to believe that this is Pinot. Very precise, fine, delineated, delicate even, with citrus and floral notes leading start to finish. Excellent discovery. WOTN for me.

2014 Antoine Bouvet Champagne Millésime Extra Brut, 93 Points
Quite a special nose here with a potpourri of aromas around citrus, flowers and red fruits. Very rich and foamy on the palate. Did not blow me away tonight but good quality for sure.

2014 Roger Pouillon et Fils Champagne Premier Cru Les Blanchiens, 93 Points
Nose of citrus oil, ripe and rich, some bruised apples and spices as well, typical grower style. Lots of power on the palate, medium finish. Solid

2014 Salima et Alain Cordeuil Champagne Origines Brut Nature, 93 Points
Lighter nose than the Bouvet and Salima next to it. More green elements as well in the nose next to the classic citrus and white flowers. Delineated palate, prominent acidity. Young, I would give some more time.

 

Author: Christian Raubach, WSET III, FWS, WSG Champagne Master
February 2023