Exploring the essence of Tuscany: A horizontal tasting of the epic 2010 vintage
The 2010 vintage in Tuscany has a reputation for being one of the most remarkable in recent memory. It was a year when nature’s perfect alignment of weather conditions yielded wines of exceptional balance, freshness, depth, and aging potential. Fifteen years after the vintage, these wines have had some time to evolve, and they are just starting to reveal the true character of the vintage and the unique terroir of one of Italy’s most celebrated wine regions. In this horizontal tasting, we had the chance to dive into a selection of 2010 Tuscan wines, from the famous Super Tuscans to the timeless classics of Chianti Classico and Brunello di Montalcino.
The 2010 vintage in Tuscany
The 2010 vintage in Tuscany is often hailed as one of the greatest in recent memory. As in many of the other of the world’s most prestigious wine regions like Bordeaux, Burgundy, Rhône Valley, Piedmont, but even in overseas regions like Napa Valley, the 2010 vintage continues to fascinate wine enthusiasts around the world. But what was so special about this year?
The growing season was marked by almost ideal conditions across Tuscany’s diverse subregions. In Montalcino, home to the revered Brunello di Montalcino, the growing season started with some rain during flowering, that wasn’t dramatic but reduced the yields. The summer was dry but not excessively hot, with some late August precipitation and a golden autumn with big diurnal shifts and cool nights that preserved the acidity and aromatic complexity of the Sangiovese grape. Rainfall was well-timed, ensuring steady ripening without the risk of dilution. Harvest took place between late September and early October. This balanced growing season resulted in wines with intense fruit, refined tannins, excellent freshness and a remarkable ability to age gracefully.
In Chianti Classico, the second prime location for Sangiovese, the 2010 vintage benefited from a long, moderately tempered growing season. After a rainy spring that effected flowering and reduced yields, a cooler-than-average summer slowed ripening, allowing the grapes to develop deep flavors while maintaining vibrant acidity. Harvest took place decidedly late. The resulting wines have exceptional structure, elegance, and a signature Tuscan freshness that has become a hallmark of the vintage. But make no mistake, these wines pack some serious depth and will probably age beautifully for much longer.
Meanwhile, in the Maremma, Tuscany’s coastal region known for its bolder Super Tuscans and international varieties, the 2010 vintage was similarly impressive. The Mediterranean climate, with its warm days and maritime breezes, provided optimal conditions for grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah to thrive. While the summer was pretty warm or even hot, there was rain at the perfect time to support even ripening. The fall had cooler nights and preserved some freshness. The wines are characterized by their richness, opulent fruit, and velvety tannins, showcasing the region’s ability to produce world-class blends from international grapes.
Our first Winelens event this year was held at Chez Smith in Zurich on the 20th of February. The location provided an excellent frame with superb wine-friendly food to check in on this very promising vintage. We tasted blind and had 17 wines in 6 flights.
The wines
To kick off the evening, we tasted one of my favorite bottles, a great Riesling from the German Nahe region. While of course not Tuscan, it provided a great Prélude to this fascinating line-up of Tuscan red wines.
Aperitif
Schäfer-Fröhlich, Riesling Bockenauer Felseneck Grosses Gewächs 2017 (from Magnum), Nahe, Germany, 96 points
This is a wine I absolutely adore. My first time having this from magnum, this was showing a touch younger than the regular bottle, but was absolutely singing, especially with some air. Notes of ripe grapefruit, apple, citrus, some bittersweet floral notes, quite some petrol, but also pungent minerality of oystershell and salty wet stone. The wine was constantly changing in the glass and gaining complexity with some more air. It’s medium-full bodied, with excellent persistence without weight, there is high bracing acidity adding tension giving it a laser-sharp overall impression. Super long finish ending on a salty mineral note. A great Felseneck, which I consider one of the very best dry Rieslings in the world.
Flight 1
1) 2010 Fattoria Le Pupille (Elisabetta Geppetti), Saffredi Toscana IGT
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot & Syrah from Scansano/Grosseto area in the Maremma. The first vintage produced was 1987.
Notes of tobacco leaf, dark plum, some cassis, dark cherries, floral notes, sweet spices, also some earth, medium-full bodied, with medium+ tannin adding grip, a touch of TCA sneaking in with more air. Therefore, no rating.
2) 2010 Fontodi, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigna del Sorbo, 96 points
100% Sangiovese from old vines of a single vineyard (Sorbo) in Panzano in Chianti Classico, organic/biodynamic.
Notes of dark red plum, tobacco leaf, also some graphite, earthy notes, there are notes of tomato leaf, sweet spices, a touch of dark chocolate, leather and some menthol. Medium-full bodied, with excellent depth, high acidity and some medium-high tannin that is very present but excellent quality. Long finish. A superb Vigna del Sorbo that still has a good 10-15 years ahead.
3) 2010 San Filipo, Brunello di Montalcino Le Lucere, 89 points
100% Sangiovese, aged in oak for 2 years.
A controversial wine. Slightly drying, a touch of dried fruit, some sweet spices, cinnamon, christmas spices, drying notes of cedar wood. It’s pretty full-bodied and extracted, with medium-high tannin that is pretty rough and rustic. Some medium-high acidity. Medium-long finish, but again, did I mention it?… drying. Too much wood that was probably drying out the fruit. This wine gets a 96 rating from Wine Advocate’s Monica Larner, and a 85 rating from Vinous (Antonio Galloni), hence the “controversial” comment. As a whole, our tasting group did not like it very much.
Flight 2
4) 2010 Montevertine, Le Pergole Torte Toscana IGT, 96+ points
100% Sangiovese from a small hill in the Montevertine vineyards in Radda in Chianti.
Lighter color than its peers, perfumed, but also still holding back a little, graphite, some floral notes, also some leather, menthol, gets deeper with some air, but there also some brighter floral notes. Medium-full but lighter than others, medium-high tannin that is silky and excellent quality, some of the best tannin we have had all evening. Medium-high acidity. Long finish. Superb. Lived up to its reference point wine reputation. Group 2nd best Wine of the Night (WOTN)
5) 2010 Tenuta San Guido, Sassicaia, 96 points
This is one of the big Tuscan classics in “Supertuscan” and the wine that put Bolgheri on the map. 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Cabernet Franc.
Young and a little bit reductive at the beginning, starting to open up very slowly with some air. Overall, very classic and classy, with notes of dark cassis, some black cherries, some floral notes too, graphite, lead pencil, almost Bordeaux-like in minerality, with excellent structure. There is medium-full body, with high acidity and pretty high tannin that is very good quality but present. This is still a good 10 years away from prime drinking. Excellent and a true classic. Some of the others at the table liked it a little less.
6) 2010 Canalicchio di Sopra – Ripaccioli, Brunello di Montalcino, 94 points
100% Sangiovese.
More opulent, riper red plum, with notes of tobacco, some cedar wood, mint, christmas spices, also some herbal notes, rosemary, smoke and some minerality. Pretty full-bodied, with medium-high acidity adding nice freshness and some medium-high slightly rustic tannin. Good finish. A very nice Brunello that was suffering a little from being served in stiff competition.
Flight 3
7) 2010 Le Macchiole, Paleo Rosso, 97 points
100% Cabernet Franc, Bolgheri, aged for 14 months in 75% new barrique, 25% second passage.
This was very true to the house-style, full of elegance, finesse and grace. Notes of violets, sweet cassis, some elderflowers, sweet spices, green bellpeppers, pipe tobacco, a touch of dark chocolate. Medium-full bodied, with excellent finesse, medium-high tannin that is very good and silky, medium-high acidity adding freshness. Long finish. There is beautiful depth without weight. Excellent. Group Wine of the night (WOTN), together with Percarlo.
8) 2010 Mastrojanni, Brunello die Montalcino, 95+ points
100% Sangiovese, traditionally made in large barrels.
This was very good, with dark plum, red cherries, tobacco leaf, tomato leaf, graphite, some cedar wood, cigar leaf and a touch of mint. Pretty complex, but also slightly rustic in texture. Medium-full bodied, with medium-high acidity and still medium-high tannin that was still present. Long finish. A textbook Brunello di Montalcino and also one of the better values on this high level.
9) 2010 Tenuta Ornellaia, Ornellaia (25th anniversary), 97+ points
53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 39% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Fran, 4% Petit Verdot, from old vines on a hill in Bolgheri, 75% new barriques.
Wow, this was impressive. Explosive, rich and heady with notes of cassis, dark plum, black cherries, some floral notes too, cigarbox, new leather, some dark ripe fruit, menthol, also some darker mineral notes. Full-bodied, rich and almost creamy, with excellent high acidity and some medium-high but super soft tannin adding both grip and some nice freshness. Long and complex finish. This is a very complex and complete Ornellaia. Group 3rd best WOTN.
Flight 4
10) 2010 Castello di Ama, Vigna l’Apparita
100% Merlot, between Gaiole and Radda in Chianti. This was the first pure Merlot in Tuscany (1985).
Completely oxidized nose, too bad. Better intact in the mouth, but this bottle is definitely flawed. Such a shame. NR
11) 2010 San Giusto a Rentennano, Percarlo, 98 points
100% Sangiovese. From the Martini di Cigala family, from the southern part of Gaiole in Chianti, old vines.
First a whiff of petrol, that is blowing off, some nice minerality, graphite, pure red cherries, some red plum, sweet spices, some savory herbs, mint, also some leather, overall super complex and building up in layers, but so fresh and still very youthful. Medium-full bodied, with excellent persistence, this is showing high acidity and some medium-high tannin that is superbly silky. Long and complex finish. Fantastic Percarlo that is still young and will only get better from here. As always a benchmark Sangiovese. Group WOTN, together with Paleo.
12) 2010 Casanova di Neri, Brunello di Montalcino Tenuta Nuova, 93 points
100% Sangiovese, extracted and modern style.
This is initially showing very aromatic, superb ripeness, a touch of cedar wood, leather, but then also slightly drying, with high tannin that is a little rough around the edges, high acidity adding some balance to the full bodied frame. Long finish but with slightly disturbing dryness. This seems a little over-extracted and is also showing a slight dryness due to the substantial use of oak. A controversial wine rated 100 points by Monica Larner (Wine Advocate) and James Suckling, and 89 points by Antonio Galloni (Vinous). Nobody in the group picked it as one of the top 3 wines on this occasion, which was surprising considering some of the lofty scores.
Flight 5
13) 2010 Isole e Olena, Cepparello, 95+ points
100% Sangiovese from old vines in Barberino Tavernelle (Chianti Classico)
This is showing very nicely. Notes of dark red cherry, some tobacco, a little bit of sweet spices, dark chocolate, some flowery notes, graphite, quite complex, with excellent freshness of high acidity, some medium+ tannin that is excellent quality and medium-full bodied, but more built on perfume and class than power. Very good length. Nice finesse and elegance. Beautiful.
14) 2010 Antinori, Tignanello, 94 points
80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, from the Chianti region.
Stylistic middle-ground and this had Sangiovese freshness, but also some Bordeaux grapes aromatics. Notes of plum, cherries, but also a touch of cassis, some sweet spices, medium-full body, medium-high acidity that is adding nice freshness. The tannin is good quality, too. Very good but a little less character than some of the other wines in this line-up.
15) 2010 Tua Rita, Redigaffi
100% Merlot.
Oxidized. NR.
Flight 6
16) 2010 Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona, Brunello di Montalcino Pianrosso, 94 points
100% Sangiovese
Very classic, notes of darker plum, some red berries, sweet spices, a touch of graphite, cedar, some pine tree, herbal notes. Medium-full bodied, with medium-high acidity and some good finish with some building complexity. Nice finish, too.
17) 2010 Fontodi, Flaccianello, 93 points
From 100% Sangiovese in Panzano in Chianti Classico, some of the oldest vines selected from different vineyards.
First a touch of oxidation, but it blew off with some air. Nice aromatics of dark plum, tobacco, smoke, graphite, also some spices, herbal notes too, cedar wood, a touch drying. Pretty full-bodied, with medium-high acidity and medium-high tannin that is a touch rustic. Long finish. A good but not great Flaccianello and a clear step down from the Vigna del Sorbo from the same producer.
| Group Rank | Wine |
| 1. | 2010 San Giusto a Rentennano, Percarlo |
| 1. | 2010 Le Macchiole, Paleo Rosso |
| 3. | 2010 Montevertine, Le Pergole Torte Toscana IGT |
| 4. | 2010 Tenuta Ornellaia, Ornellaia (25th anniversary) |
| 5. | 2010 Fontodi, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigna del Sorbo |
| 6. | 2010 Antinori, Tignanello |
| 7. | 2010 San Filipo, Brunello di Montalcino Le Lucere |
| 7. | 2010 Tenuta San Guido, Sassicaia |
| 7. | 2010 Canalicchio di Sopra – Ripaccioli, Brunello di Montalcino |
| 7. | 2010 Mastrojanni, Brunello die Montalcino |
| 7. | 2010 Casanova di Neri, Brunello di Montalcino Tenuta Nuova |
| 7. | 2010 Isole e Olena, Cepparello |
| 7. | 2010 Fattoria Le Pupille (Elisabetta Geppetti), Saffredi Toscana IGT |
| 7. | 2010 Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona, Brunello di Montalcino Pianrosso |
| 7. | 2010 Fontodi, Flaccianello |
| 16. | 2010 Tua Rita, Redigaffi |
| 16. | 2010 Castello di Ama, Vigna l’Apparita |
Author: Markus Kumschick, WSET 3
26th February 2025
