Sassicaia is the first Super Tuscan wine, with its inagural vintage released in 1968 by Marchese Mario Incisa della Rocchetta at Tenuta San Guido in the Bolgheri region. The wine broke from Tuscany’s traditional DOC regulations by using Bordeaux grape varieties Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, instead of the native Sangiovese that was required for most Tuscan wines. This pioneering approach set the stage for the Super Tuscan movement, which flourished in the 1970s as other winemakers in Tuscany began experimenting with international varieties, leading to the creation of bold, high-quality wines.
Following Sassicaia, several other iconic wines joined the Super Tuscan ranks, including Tignanello (1971) by Marchesi Antinori, which blended Sangiovese with Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, and Ornellaia (1985), a Bordeaux-style blend made at Tenuta dell’Ornellaia in Bolgheri. Solaia (1978), another Antinori wine, and Masseto (1986), a 100% Merlot wine from the same estate, further cemented Bolgheri’s status as the heart of the Super Tuscan revolution. These wines showcased the potential of Tuscany to produce world-class reds using non-native grape varieties, competing with the best Bordeaux wines.
While the Super Tuscan movement had a very positive effect on the awareness of quality in Tuscany, wine makers realizing that if you make a wine that stands out, you will be able to charge for it and eventually reap the economic benefits, the huge draw back of the movement was (and still is) that the Super Tuscans have done nothing to raise the prestige of the AOC such as Chianti, Brunello because they are a different concept. The French have done a much better job. They promote the region first, everyone works together and when Lafite, Latour & Co become famous, all of Bordeaux wins. The same is true for Burgundy, Champagne. The individualistic Italians seem to be more interest to make themselves famous than the entire AOC region.
Back to our tasting. The wine performed very well that evening. Even the lesser vintages were in good shape. In the last 5 years there seems to be an additional step up in quality. There were two types of vintages, the more structured ones (01, 05, 08) and the more ripe ones with noticeable plum notes (03, 04, 07, 09), with (06, 10) combining the best of both worlds. Most people on the table were therefore also split between those two vintages as their favorite. 2010 was my personal winner as it shows the Sassicaia in its purest expression. Very elegant and highly aromatic, never heavy, a wine to accompany your Mediterranean food. The blend of CabSav/CabFranc makes Sassicaia an elegant wine more in the style. This differentiates it also from the Ornellaia and Solaia, which are denser on the mid-palate.
All wines except the 2010 were from half bottles. I have fond memories of this tasting, as it was the first one I organized when I arrived in Singapore in mid 2013 and it helped me make new wine friends.
Flight 1
1998 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 91 Points
Medium garnet with brick rim. Nose of coffee, vanilla, cedar and some red fruit. Medium bodied with well-aged and tamed tannins. Medium length. Drink up now.
2001 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 92 Points
Medium ruby. Aromas of spice, dark fruit and a whiff of green pepper. On the palate this is much tighter and spicier with a solid tannic grip and acidity. While there is more structure and volume in the mid mouth than with the a bit flat 03 and 09, I wonder whether the tannins had optimal ripeness here. Decant before drinking.
2003 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 92 Points
Medium ruby. Noticeably ripe nose of plum, cedar and leather. On the palate medium bodied with lots of fruit but no heat of the vintage, soft tannins, not drying. This lacks a bit of structure and aromatic depth but is very well done for this challenging vintage. Drink now.
Flight 2
2004 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 93 Points
Medium-dark ruby. Expressive, ripe nose of plum, cherry with cedar wood and a bit of vanilla, slightly oxidative? On the palate soft and ripe but with more structure than the 2003. Solid, better than the 03 and 09 but not among the best vintages. Drink now.
2005 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 93 Points
Medium ruby. Nose of cedar wood, some smoke with dark fruit and spices. Quite tight on the palate, medium bodied with well present tannins and acidity, more structure than fruit. Similar to the 2001, leaves a questions of the optimal ripeness of the tannins but well done for a vintage that was good in Bordeaux but not in Tuscany. Wait or decant for 2h.
2006 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 96 Points
Medium ruby. Expressive nose of red fruit, cherry with some torrefaction and oak. On the palate it is medium+ bodied, combining both ripeness and structure, very compelling, good length too. Clearly one of the best vintages of Sassicaia. I personally prefer the 08 and 10 even more but if you like it a bit more ripe and fruity than this is the one to go for. Wait or decant before drinking.
Flight 3
2007 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 94 Points
Medium ruby. Expressive nose of ripe fruit, plum, cherry, almost a bit ostentatious. On the palate soft and ripe with better structure than the 2003. Delicious but lacks the depth of the best vintages as well. Drinkable now.
2008 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 96 Points
Medium ruby, slightly lighter in color than the 2007. Expressive nose of dark fruit with herbs, minerals and smoke, very complex. On the palate this has a firm tannic grip, similar than the 2005, but with much riper tannins and more aromatic depth. Excellent acidity too making it sappy and exciting to drink. This Sassicaia needs time but when it is done it will be among the best ones, no doubt. Wait until 2020.
2009 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 92 Points
Medium ruby. Ripe nose of plum, licorice, dark fruit and some oak. On the palate this is soft and immediately pleasing but lacking both complexity and structure for a higher scoring. Very similar to the 2003 in style. Clearly a weaker vintage for Sassicaia. Will sure have few enemies at the table due to its softness but then you have to ask yourself why do you have to spend a 100$+ on what can be bought in equivalent quality/style for half. Drinkable now, decanting advisable. 92-93.
2010 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 96 Points
Medium ruby. Expressive, and highly appealing nose of red fruit, gingerbread, rosemary and spices. Very complex nose. On the palate this is medium bodied with outstanding elegance and purity. Like the 06 it marries fruit and structure but for my palate it is a notch up in balance and aromatic depth. A sensational Sassicaia. Wait until 2020.
Author: Christian Raubach, WSET II, FWS
Oct. 11, 2013