During the 2017 en Primeur week, Hong Kong based wine merchant, Pearl of Burgundy PoB, organized a series of dinners and Lunches with wine makers present. The Sylvain Cathiard lunch was one of the highlights and a rare occasion to taste so many of his wines as the prices have gone stratospheric for this producer. I had his wines only a few times, so I was really keen learn what the “Cathiard fuss” was all about. Well, his wines are really amazing. How should I describe them? They are elegant with lots of violets, red/blue fruit in the top note but they also have a seriousness to them on the structural side. The tannins are well measured providing an great level of textural finesse, never intrusive or dry but always there to remind you that this wine is for the patient and serious connoisseur.
Tasting Notes
Village
2005 Sylvain Cathiard Vosne-Romanée 93 Points
A strong start. Nose of violets, some blue fruit. The palate has lots of structure typical to 2005. There is enough fruit to support the tannins. Stays elegant. Good. Early drinking window.
2010 Sylvain Cathiard Chambolle-Musigny Les Clos De L’orme 95 Points
Much softer than the 2005 Vosne Romanee Village next to it and also much more floral, elderflowers, blossom. This wine was captivatingly charming. Absolutely loved it.
Nuits Premier Crus
2005 Sylvain Cathiard Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Aux Murgers 95 Points
Also here, a very floral nose intermixed with clay, licorice, gingerbread. Wonderfully refined and elegant.
2005 Sylvain Cathiard Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Reignots 96 Points
Lots of dark fruit in the nose with violets, blackberry, impressive. Has the structure to age further. If you drink it now, decant.
2014 Sylvain Cathiard Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Aux Murgers 94 Points
This was really primary, felt like it was just bottled, so aromatically it was hard to assess. The spectrum was blue fruit and violets. Very good purity and minerality. Do not open before 2024. 93-95 range
Vosne Premier Crus
2014 Sylvain Cathiard Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots 94 Points
Reserved nose of blackberry, violets. Polishedmid palate that needs to flesh out a bit. Young, wait 5 years before drinking this. 94-95
2005 Sylvain Cathiard Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts 93 Points
Very ripe nose, sour cherry, fruit compote. A bit too ripe for my taste, lacks the elegance of the top wines in today’s line up.
2013 Sylvain Cathiard Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts 98 Points
Here we go! Wow, overtly floral nose with roses, violets, licorice. The palate has lots of tension and shows that the well-made 2013 are hidden gems. I found this to be at the same level as the RSVs, if not better.
Grand Crus
2012 Sylvain Cathiard Romanée St. Vivant 97 Points
Expressive nose, lots of flowers, candy. The palate was still a bit closed but there is an elegance and purity here that is really impressive. My guess is that this will need 15 years of bottle age to show its full potential.
2014 Sylvain Cathiard Romanée St. Vivant 97 Points
Lots of blueberry, peony and violets in the nose, compact and elegant, great purity, balanced and fresh. Wait at least till 2025 before approaching this.
Author: Christian Raubach, WSET III, FWS, WSG Champagne Master
January 2019