FICOFI, founded by frenchman Philippe Capdouze, is a prestigious private wine club that grants its global members exclusive access to some of the world’s most sought-after wines, particularly from top producers in Burgundy and Bordeaux. Since its inception in 1990 FICOFI has cultivated strong relationships with elite wineries, allowing members to secure rare allocations, enjoy tailored tasting experiences, and benefit from expert wine services like cellar management and personalized consultations. Membership is expensive. Upon joining you have to buy wine for $300k and then every year for 100k. Thus, the clientele and wines on offer reflect that upper echelon.
FICOFI’s annual signature event is the Christmas Salon in Paris, held in the stunning setting of the Petit Palais in Paris, an iconic venue that adds a touch of grandeur to this elite gathering. This invitation-only event is the best and biggest wine tasting event in the world, hands down. Each member gets two tickets and I have been lucky to be invited by a generous member twice. Every big winemaker of the portfolio is there to pour wines. Be it DRC, Coche, Latour, Lafite, Chave, Harlan. You name it. There are hundres of four digit priced bottles to taste. Kids in the candy store next level experience and then of course all the wine friends you meet. After this stunning 2h walkabout tasting, there is a dinner with winemakers where more top wines are served. Utterly amazing, even for wine buffs who have tasted many serious bottles.
Fantastic wines as far as the eye can see
Whites
2012 Domaine Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, 98 Points
Top showing here, elegant, flinty, really precise, light on its fee but with generous palate presence nevertheless.
2009 Jean-Claude Ramonet Montrachet, 98 Points
From Jero. Spectacular, lime with minerals, precise and very elegant, great aromatic persistence.
2016 Jean-Claude Ramonet Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet, 97 Points
This was really top. Light and airy, extremely mineralic almost like a Mosel Riesling, beautiful white flowers, composed, elegant. 97-98
2019 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Corton-Charlemagne, 97 Points
From Methusalem. Second time I am trying this within a month, lucky me. Conforms the first tasting. Awesome white. Fresh, mineralic, good mouth feel, complex.
2008 Louis Jadot Corton-Charlemagne, 96 Points
From MAG, excellent balance and richness, match stick, minerality.
2015 Domaine Bernard Moreau et Fils Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot, 96 Points
From MAG. Flinty, good volume, complex, long.
2009 Domaine Henri Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles, 96 Points
From Jero. Light and precise, mineralic, match stick, long. Excellent
2011 Etienne Sauzet Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet, 96 Points
From Jero. Still tight, light and flinty. Will be top.
2014/2017 Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes Points, 96 Points
The 2014 (96pt) vs the 2017 (94+), both from MAG showed well with racy, light body and gun flint. The 2014 clearly had the more of everything advantage.
2014 Domaine Henri Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Perrières, 96 Points
From MAG. Top drawer here as well. Racy, elegant, flinty.
2016 Paul Pillot Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Romanée, 96 Points
From Jero. Great showing, flinty, racy, grand cru density. 96-97
2017 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne, 96 Points
From MAG. Great showing, light, energetic, gun flint.
2014 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chenevottes, 96 Points
Lots of flinty notes, precise, smoky, Coche-Dury style.
2015 Paul Pillot Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos St. Jean, 96 Points
From MAG. Great white here as well and not far off the La Romanée. Rich, ripe with excellent acidity and flinty notes. Top class.
2018 Jean-Claude Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Boudriotte, 95 Points
Light and floral, some lemon rind, precise, airy, little oak. Very good.
2015 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chenevottes, 95 Points
Also very good and flinty, albeit not quite the energy of the 2014 but well done for the vintage.
The Walk to the dinner location across the museum
Reds
1979 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée St. Vivant, 98 Points
From Methusalem. Light color, jumping from the glass with captivating aromas of violets, autumn leaves, black tea. Very grand.
2010 Château Cos d’Estournel, 98 Points
As good as it gets Bordeaux here. Dense, polished, complex. Best after 2030.
2010 Colgin IX Estate Napa Valley, 98 Points
Happy to see that this wine shows as well as I remember it. Very aromatic, great mature earthy notes combined with dark fruit. To me, together with Monte Bello, Colgin makes the most attractive wines in the US.
2005 Château Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan, 97 Points
Structured, pine, dark fruit, spice. Top but best after 2028.
2009 Château Margaux, 97 Points
From DMG. Rich, ripe, yet precise. Very young still. I would not drink this before 2029.
2009 Château Latour Grand Vin, 97 Points
From DMG. Super young still. Dense, good fruit core. Best after 2029.
2011 Alain Hudelot-Noëllat Romanée St. Vivant Romanée St. Vivant, 97 Points
From Jero, top showing again, glorious aromas fo autumn leaves, red fruit, Vosne spices.
1982 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle, 97 Points
After the slightly oxidative 1989 sample came this glorious bottle. Wonderful notes of farmyard, red fruit, spices, leather.
2016 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Landonne/Mouline/Turque, 97 Points
The Guigal Lala trio showed well in the 2016 vintage. The wines were balanced and composed, nothing over the top or too ripe/oaky. As always, La Landonne (97pt) the densest with lots of smoke, La Turque (96pt) in the middle showing quite closed and La Mouline (97pt) a touch lighter with elegant floral nose. Any of these I would not drink before 2035.
2018 Eisele Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley, 97 Points
Unlike in burgundy with Eugenie (former René Engel wines) the Latour team does a good job here, I guess they should stick to CabSav… TN: This was really nice and polished, precise, composed. Drink this beauty after 2033 to let some tertiary notes appear.
2006 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin-Clos de Bèze, 96 Points
From MAG. Dense, still a bit brooding, good length though.
1990 Château Lafite Rothschild, 96 Points
From Imperial. Light, elegant, leather, bretty.
2001 Domaine Dujac Clos de la Roche, 96 Points
From Jero. Still a bit closed. Elegant, light, fragrant.
2005 Château Cos d’Estournel, 96 Points
Composed, structured, precise. Will be top, best after 2025. 96-97
2009 Château Mouton Rothschild, 96 Points
From DMG. Elegant wine here, not a bruiser, young. Best after 2029.
2011 Joseph Drouhin Griotte-Chambertin Griotte-Chambertin, 96 Points
Consistent to my last tasting notes. Still a bit closed, lovely spice notes here, give this till 2026 before appraoching.
2014 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Bonnes Mares, 96 Points
From Jero. Not surprising, more closed than the one from a normal format I had a month ago. Consistent style, elegant, smoky, red fruit.
2016 Château Palmer Margaux 96 Points
Dense and young. This needs time. Best after 2035.
2016 Château Ausone St. Émilion Grand Cru, 96 Points
Much more structured than the 2015 next to it. Very good potential though. Best after 2035.
2016 Alain Hudelot-Noëllat Romanée St. Vivant Romanée St. Vivant, 96 Points
Dense and spicy, still closed and tannic, very good and ripe structure though. Best after 2030.
2018 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays, 96 Points
The new era of Clos de Lambrays the 2018 and 2019 side by side. Both are modern wines, polished with noticeable oak but all in place for a good outcome. The 2018 is a bit denser than the 2019 but equally competent. the quality is up, but so is the
2019 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays, 96 Points
The new era of Clos de Lambrays the 2018 and 2019 side by side. Both are modern wines, polished with noticeable oak but all in place for a good outcome. The 2018 is a bit denser than the 2019 but equally competent. the quality is up, but so is the price…
2015 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage, 96 Points
Nose of dark fruit, beefy, funky, still very young, but will be good, no signs of undue heat. Best after 2030. 96+
2017 Harlan Estate Oakville, 96 Points
Precise, compact, great balance. Young, will be great. 96+
Cyrille Rousseau was in high conversation demand at our table
Author: Christian Raubach, WSET III, FWS, WSG Champagne Master
December 2022