FICOFI, founded by frenchman Philippe Capdouze, is a prestigious private wine club that grants its global members exclusive access to some of the world’s most sought-after wines, particularly from top producers in Burgundy and Bordeaux. Since its inception in 1990 FICOFI has cultivated strong relationships with elite wineries, allowing members to secure rare allocations, enjoy tailored tasting experiences, and benefit from expert wine services like cellar management and personalized consultations. Membership is expensive. Upon joining you have to buy wine for $300k and then every year for 100k. Thus, the clientele and wines on offer reflect that upper echelon.
FICOFI’s annual signature event is the Christmas Salon in Paris, held in the stunning setting of the Petit Palais in Paris, an iconic venue that adds a touch of grandeur to this elite gathering. This invitation-only event is the best and biggest wine tasting event in the world, hands down. Each member gets two tickets and I have been lucky to be invited by a generous member twice. Every big winemaker of the portfolio is there to pour wines. Be it DRC, Coche, Latour, Lafite, Chave, Harlan. You name it. There are hundres of four digit priced bottles to taste. Kids in the candy store next level experience and then of course all the wine friends you meet. After this stunning 2h walkabout tasting, there is a dinner with winemakers where more top wines are served. Utterly amazing, even for wine buffs who tasted many serious bottles.
Below a few highlights of the wines served.
Whites / Champagne
2008 Egly-Ouriet Champagne Grand Cru Brut Millésimé, 98 points
From MAG. Wow, this really showed well. Multi layered, subtle notes of bruised apples, brioche, flowers, oak spice, Selosse like.
2012 Philipponnat Champagne Extra Brut Clos des Goisses, 98 points
From Jero. I went to this with great anticipation after having tasted so many good, high end Champagnes already. It did not let me down. Very youthful but very expressive with generous pinot spice, flowers, 2012 charm and excellent freshness. Similar to the Egly 2008.
2013 Pierre Péters Champagne Grand Cru L’Etonnant Monsieur Victor, 96 points
MK13. Fresh, delicate but not thin. Lots fo grass, interesting aromas with carrot and hazelnut. Multi layered. Grand, unfortunately also rare and expensive. 96+
2009 Jacquesson & Fils Champagne Grand Cru Avize Champ Cain Chardonnay, 96 points
From MAG. Powerful, complex and fresh. Very good.
Krug Champagne Brut Rosé NV Edition 21eme, 96 points
The Krug Rosé 21 iteration is based on the 2008 vintage and it showed really well. I am not such a Rosé fan but this one combined an intense nose with peony, baking spices, raspberry. Long, aromatic, chalky finish.
NV Krug Champagne Brut Grande Cuvée NV Edition 161eme, 96 points
From Jero. Based on the 2005 vintage, this showed really well from Jero. Generous, great pinot spice, long and fresh finish. 96+
2004 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut, 95 points
With light oxidative notes, this was more advanced as I though. Good richness.
2002 Dom Pérignon P2, 96 points
From MAG. Very generous and complex. Youthful aromatics. Expensive but good.
2002 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut Late Release, 95 points
“Vinotheque bottle”, I guess that refers to a is the late release. From MAG. After all the top Champagne today I found this Cristal to be in the middle of the pack, not the top. Fresh, floral, fine bubbles. What I liked was its elegance and delicacy on the palate. Aromatically it was holding back though.
2011 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese, 97 points
Good lord, this even poured like a syrup, not a wine. Extremely unctuous. I don’t think it is a beverage anymore, more like a concentrate, much, much thicker than a Sauternes for example. However, there are clear positive elements in this wine. The freshness is impeccable, puts a Sauternes to shame. Also aromatically it is very attractive and multilayered. Apricot, citrus, earthy elements, quince, tangerine, cedar, ginger. If you own this, serve it by the spoon, not the glass – it is that unctuous.
2009 Coche-Dury Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières, 97 points
Really grand, combines richness with racy freshness, lime, gunflint.
2016 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Abbaye de Morgeot, 95 points
From Jero, flinty, generous, fresh. Very good.
2019 Domaine Henri Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Mouchère, 96 points
Great as always, flinty, precise, lemon curd, pop corn. This has always been one of the best white Burgundies in my book. It delivers at Grand Cru level and because there is decent production volume the price is also nto too hefty.
2016 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne, 96 points
From Jero. I really liked this, very showy, with flinty and pop corn elements, rich and fresh.
2010 Domaine Ramonet Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet , 96 points
From Jero, this felt very closed, otherwise racy, long, fresh. lime, green herbs.
2014 Domaine Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet Bâtard-Montrachet, 96 points
Lean, precise, still very closed, but potential is visible, deleniated.
2016 Henri Boillot Chevalier-Montrachet, 95 points
Salon Ficofi Paris walkabout tasting and dinner, no detailed tasting notes. From Jero, still closed, hard to read, but precise and fresh palate.
2015 Coche-Dury Meursault Chardonay, 95 points
Very much in the flinty house style, generous fruit as well. Amazing for a village.
Reds
2019 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Corton-Charlemagne, 97 points
From Methuselah, yes you heard right, 6L! Aubert de Villaine was there and the team was pouring three different DRC’s all from this large format. The 1991 Grands Echezeaux (95pt) showed fully mature forest floor notes with autumn leaves, the 2000 La Tache (96pt) had a similar profile but with a bit more complexity, and the 2019 Corton Charlemagne (97pt) which was my favorite. This wine is racy, flinty, generous but not as opulent as the Montrachet, which I am not such a fan of.
1989 Château Lafite Rothschild, 97 points
From MAG. Fully mature, showed wonderfully with intense tertiary aromas and elegant palate.
2015 Clos Rougeard (Foucault) Saumur-Champigny Le Bourg, 97 points
If you like CabFanc buy this. I know its not cheap but such a beauty, precise, leafy, red fruit, sous bois. Trop drawer.
2010 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Ruchottes-Chambertin, 97 points
From Jero, top showing, complex, silky, great aromatic depth.
2009 Château Margaux, 97 points
Salon Ficofi Paris walkabout tasting and dinner, no detailed tasting notes. From DMG. Very young still and aromatically a little shy. The palate is amazingly polished and balanced. 96-98
2019 Domaine Henri Rebourseau Mazy-Chambertin, 96 points
Salon Ficofi Paris walkabout tasting and dinner, no detailed tasting notes. From MAG. One of the surprises of the night, did not know this producer. Very precise, pure fruit, velvety palate, aromatic finish. A gem.
2019 Domaine Duroché Latricières-Chambertin, 96 points
Salon Ficofi Paris walkabout tasting and dinner, no detailed tasting notes. From Jero. Wonderful nose, airy, elegant palate. Grand.
2015 Clos Rougeard (Foucault) Saumur Blanc Brézé Chenin Blanc, 96 points
First time having this. A really great dry Chenin. Racy, creamy, citrus, herbs.
2019 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Turque, 96 points
Wow, very well balanced, Already aromatic. Obviously too young, once mature my score may prove too conservative. 96-97
2017 Georges Noellat Grands-Echezeaux Grands-Echezeaux, 96 points
Salon Ficofi Paris walkabout tasting and dinner, no detailed tasting notes. From Jero. This has come along nicely, great showing today, complex, precise palate, bllue fruit, cake, spices, very aromatic. Wow. 96-97
2016 Domaine Armand Rousseau Charmes-Chambertin, 96 points
From MAG. Still quite primary, dark fruit, oak spice, polished palate. Will need more complexity for a higher score. Very aromatic, elegant, multi layered spice. Great potential.
2013 Domaine Dujac Clos de la Roche Clos de la Roche, 96 points
Wow, very good balance here, multi layered.
2010 Colgin IX Estate Napa Valley, 96 points
Very good showing here as well, excellent balance, not too sweet, composed, good complexity. 96+
2011 Hudelot-Noëllat Romanée St. Vivant Romanée St. Vivant, 96 points
From Jero, complex, wonderful, red fruit, spices, lifted.
2009 Château Montrose, 96 points
From DMG. Feels young still, not many tertiary notes yet. Good balance despite, lush, but not overripe.
2009 Château Ausone, 96 points
From DMG, generous, lush, good structure, much better than the 2011 alongside it. 96+
1995 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Cros Parantoux, 96 points
I really liked this, lots of tertiary notes, forest, cured meat. Expensive gem though.
2000 Château Léoville Las Cases, 96 points
From Jero, aristocratic nose with forest floor, pine. The palate is precise and strict. Has just reached its drinking window.
1993 Harlan Estate Napa Valley, 96 points
From DMG. Beautiful nose of dark fruit with a touch of sous bois and gingebread. Love the mouthfeel here as well. Shows how graceful this Cru can age.
1988 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage, 96 points
Wow, complex, earthy, farmyard, leather.
2006 Domaine G. Roumier Bonnes Mares, 96 points
From Jero, Great nose here as well, soft structure, excellent balance.
2005 Bernard Dugat-Py Charmes-Chambertin, 96 points
Rich and dense, tannins melted, earthy, complex
2003 Colgin IX Estate Napa Valley, 95 points
From DMG. Fully mature, polished palate, good tertiary complexity with baking spices, toast, eucalyptus.
2015 Alain Hudelot-Noëllat Romanée St. Vivant Romanée St. Vivant, 95 points
Closed, dont open this before 2030. Very impressive structure and material though.
2005 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Clos Vougeot, 95 points
Coming into its prime. Tannins have melted, still very present but well integrated.
Author: Christian Raubach, WSET III, FWS, WSG Champagne Master
December 2023