PVG – Pierre Girardin 2023 Domaine visit

Every now and then you visit a producer that stops you in your tracks. The visit to Pierre-Vincent Girardin (PVG), based in Meursault, was such. Though relatively new, PVG has already gained recognition from critics and collectors alike as one of Burgundy’s rising stars. Some Confrierie members mentioned this when we entered the property and as I quickly found out, they were right. First I was impressed to see such a young guy at the helm, clearly from the dynamic new generation of Burgundy winemakers. He reminded me of people like Charles Lachaux in the way he talked and explained every single detail that he wants to manage and improve, sets the bar for high himself, very high. For example, he uses tailor made 456L barres from Fronacois Frères and Chassisn instead of the normal 228L as he feels this leads to better results, details after details. At the same time he was jovial, relaxed as if he had 20 vintages under his belt to lend him confidence that he was on the right track. Later his mother joined us. She is from french part of Valais (Switzerland) and one could see that the “tiger mom” was happy with the result of her own “élevage”. Pierre’s father sold the Vincent Girardin Domaine to the Compagnie des Vins d’Autrefois in 2012 but retained some holdings where Pierre is now managing the 4.5ha that are left. They are bottled under the new Pierre Girardin name with a big PVG on the label.

How do I best describe his wine? The whites are of crystalline purity and vibrant tension. For the whites, Paul Pillot, Coche-Dury come to mind. You have to like it flinty, which I do. For lush, buttery Chard look elsewhere. I was very impressed with his regional blend “Eclat de Calcere” which performs far above its level and sells for 40€. Go find it and see for yourself before the price for this is as high as his other wines. There were also some Savagnin and Chardonnay Cuvées from Jura that impressed. The reds were also fantastic. It is rare tha someone can excell in both colors, but here we have an example. Precise and pure wines, lots of red frit, Charles Lachaux comes to mind as well as Fourrier and Kei Shiogai. There is a lot of energy in the wines as well.

Tasting Notes

This visit also confirmed that 2023 is a big success in Burgundy. The wines are similar to 2020 and 2022 with generosity but no excesses like in 2018. Luckily it is a large crop as well, so it should not be too difficult to find them once they arrive in the market in 1Q/2025.

Reds

2023 Pierre Girardin Vosne-Romanée Les Damaudes, 94 Points
Barrel sample. Red and blue fruit with excellent purity, good density, and elegant licorice on the finish. Cool, precise, and very convincing. 93–95

2023 Pierre Girardin Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots, 95 Points
Barrel sample. Eight barrels make up his largest cuvée. Very floral with warmer tones, oak, and vanilla. Generous and ripe but with precision and bright acidity as well. 95–96.

2023 Pierre Girardin Echezeaux, 96+ Points
Barrel sample. Stunning floral nose, almost Rayas-like in its brilliance. A show-stopper. 96–97.

Whites – Regional / Village / Premier Crus

2023 Pierre Girardin Bourgogne Blanc Eclat de Calcaire, 94 Points
Barrel sample. A flinty, fresh, and vibrant wine. Absolutely thrilling and full of energy. A stunning achievement for a regional level. Wow!

2023 Pierre Girardin Côtes du Jura Le Noyer, 94 Points
Barrel sample. Flinty and reductive nose in the best way. Racy and precise—a geek wine for purists, reminiscent of Coche-Dury and Paul Pillot in its flintyness. Did very well within the white Burg line up and shows the potential of the Jura region for elegant wines pleasing to sophisticated cool-climate palates.

2023 Pierre Girardin Meursault Le Limozin, 92 Points
Barrel sample. Generous palate yet precise, with ripe lemon tones. Less strict, showing clay soil’s roundness. 92–93.

2023 Pierre Girardin Meursault Les Narvaux, 95 Points
Barrel sample. Fresh lemon and flinty character with a generous palate. A standout village wine, my favorite of the lineup. 95–96.

2023 Pierre Girardin Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes, 94 Points
Barrel sample. Purchased grapes, but expertly guided. Flinty nose leading to rich, ripe lemon. Sunny yet balanced and very generous. 94–95.

2023 Pierre Girardin Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières, 96 Points
Barrel sample. Flinty with ripe lemon aromas. Very precise and well-judged with a creamy and persistent palate.

2023 Pierre Girardin Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières, 95 Points
Barrel sample. Rounded and ripe with generous lemon and flinty notes. From the Domaine’s own holdings. 95–96.

Whites – Grand Crus

2023 Pierre Girardin Corton-Charlemagne, 96 Points
Barrel sample. Light and floral with lemon and flinty precision. This wine has it all. 96–97.

2023 Pierre Girardin Bâtard-Montrachet, 97 Points
Barrel sample. From the Chassagne side. Elegant and reserved, with white flowers, lemon, and a caressing yet racy mouthfeel. A wine to die for. 97–98.