A Singapore based collector, known for his deep, five digit bottle cellar and a particular passion Pierre Morey’s wines organized this terrific tasting over Zoom with Anne Morey participating. The Singapore distributor, Corney & Barrow generously contributed the 2017 vintage wines. Ann’s father, Pierre Morey as well as her son, also made a brief appearance. It is worth noting that Pierre Morey was the maître de chai and winemaker at the legendary Domaine Leflaive from 1988 to 2008. During his tenure, he played a pivotal role in Leflaive’s rise to prominence as one of Burgundy’s finest producers, particularly in shaping its move to biodynamic viticulture, which began in the early 1990s.
In addition to his work at Leflaive, Pierre Morey runs his own Domaine Pierre Morey in Meursault, which also produces highly regarded wines. His domaine focuses on many of the same appellations as Leflaive, especially Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet, with a similarly meticulous approach to viticulture and winemaking. Since stepping away from Leflaive, Pierre Morey has dedicated himself fully to his own domaine and his négoce label, Morey-Blanc, where he continues to produce wines of great elegance and precision. Tonight, we tasted wines from the Pierre Morey as well as the Morey Blanc portfolio. The wines showed really well, the talent of the wine maker was apparent.
What I liked about the wines in particular was that of the 18 wines tasted there was no wine with premox. All older wines aged gracefully adding aromas of bruised red apples that added to complexity rather then dominating the mix. The village wines also punched above their weight with the Terre Blance being of particular good QPR.
Tasting of the 2017 vintage Portfolio
2017 Pierre Morey Pommard 1er Cru Les Grands Épenots, 93 Points
Medium-light ruby, garnet hue. More earthy and tannic/masculine than the Santenots, red fruit but also a significant earthy side. Good length with orange peel on the finish. Epenots can be at bit sturdy at time but not is this elegant 2017 vintage. Will need till 2025 at least before ready.
2017 Morey-Blanc Aloxe-Corton 1er Cru Les Vercots, 89 Points
Medium-light ruby, fullest color of the three. Darker nose with earthy elements, tannins a bit less polished. A bit of a whole in the mid palate. Some pine and citrus even on the finish., Aromatically quite timid still. This needs some time as well. After 2023. 89-90
2017 Morey-Blanc Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Blanc, 93 Points
Wow, seriously good St-Aubin. Beautiful and complex nose of citrus, vanilla with a touch of raspberry even, some bruised apples. Has texture, not light at all. Some nice minerals on the finish. 93+
2017 Pierre Morey Bourgogne Blanc, 89 Points
Nose of bruised red apples, touch of lemon and flowers. Light palate. Very well made for the level. Does not come across as simple.
2017 Pierre Morey Meursault Les Tessons, 90 Points
Nose of red apples, touch of vanilla and Hawthorne. Light palate, excellent freshness. Citrus on the finish. Apparently a cooler terroir. Great with shell fish.
2017 Pierre Morey Meursault Les Terres Blanches, 94 Points
First nose here that shows greatness with match stick, acacia, lemon curd. Broad shouldered acidity. Long and precise. Young but will be grand.
2017 Pierre Morey Volnay 1er Cru Santenots, 93 Points
Light ruby, primary nose with lots of violets, red and blue berries. Light, charming, soft tannins. Can be approached now.
Samples delivered for the Zoom tasting
Village and Premier Crus
2008 Pierre Morey Meursault Les Terres Blanches, 95 Points
Tasted blind. Medium gold. Oak, vanilla, age, touch of quince and smoke, savory. Honey, curry spice. Fuller bodied, warmer vintage. Complex, age guess 2002.
1998 Pierre Morey Meursault, 93 Points
Tasted blind. Light gold. More bruised apples, cedar wood, some nuts, complex, tertiary, not oxidative but aged. Guess 1995.
2004 Morey-Blanc Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Combes Blanc, 95 Points
Tasted blind. Pale greenish lemon Younger, vibrant, mineral, more up my alley with strong lime (not lemon), match stick, laser precise. Age guess. 2010. Very racy and Chabilesque.
Meursault Perrières vertical
2001 Pierre Morey Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières, 96 Points
Tasted blind. Light gold. Thicker rounder than the wines before. Almost opulent. With oak, nuts, vanilla, lots of texture, lovely bitterness on the finish. very complex and full. Smoke, dried fruit. I guessed Guessed 1990
1989 Pierre Morey Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières, 95 Points
Tasted blind. Light gold. Thought it had a bit of cork but that blew off. This was lighter bodied than the others, I guessed 1990 vintage. The wine was in very good shape for its age, not overly oxidative for a 30 year old white. Just some lovely bruised apples, complex with quince, dried fruit, fennel. Lovely but personally l like Chard to be younger than this.
1999 Pierre Morey Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières, 94 Points
Tasted blind. Light gold. A bit simpler, a little more oxidative than the others. Showed as old as the 1989 side by side. Lots of bruised red apples, quince and dried fruit. Chrysantenum tea. Good length but not so much my style.
2004 Pierre Morey Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières, 95 Points
Tasted blind. Light gold, Matchstick, my style, precise, crisp, relatively light. 1er Cru intensity. Finish could be longer but I am nit picking. Fennel and asparagus. Younger, guessed 2010. Very nice showing, both 2004s were racy and fresh.
The Morey Family during the Zoom tasting
Grand Crus
2003 Morey-Blanc Corton-Charlemagne 96 Points
Tasted blind. Light yellow, much more creamy and dense, Grand Gru density. Broad shouldered. Good acidity, warmer vintage?. Bruised apples, yet also some green asparagus on the nose. The top wine for the Cheese platter. Long, complex finish
2007 Morey-Blanc Montrachet 95 Points
Tasted blind. Lighter color and also body with bruised apples, mineral, some match stick, dried apricot. Elegant and airy. Yellow fruit, daisy flower, red apples. Vintage 1995 was my guess, this wine and the 1999 Meursault Perrieres showed more age than the other wines vs its real age. Still very nice.
2013 Pierre Morey Bâtard-Montrachet 97 Points
Tasted blind. Pale lemon, greenish hue. Matchstick, great complexity, lime, very Coche in style. My style of Chard with searing acidity. Very Meursault Perrieres in style but with a bit more volume and complexity. Guess 2010. WOTN #2
1996 Pierre Morey Bâtard-Montrachet 98 Points
Tasted blind. Wow, this wine has it all. Bruised apples, minerals, green aspargus, lemon curd. deep and complex dried fruit notes with quince, guava, apricot and Hawthorne. Mouth watering finish. Long and complex. My overall WOTN!
Author: Christian Raubach, WSET III, FWS, WSG Champagne Master
September 2020