Meursault Perrières Premier Cru is often considered the crown jewel of Meursault’s vineyards, a lieu-dit that performs at a level rivaling Burgundy’s grand crus. Meursault itself has no grand cru vineyards, but Perrières frequently earns comparisons to the finest white Burgundies. Located on the upper slopes of Meursault, Perrières benefits from a high limestone content in its soil, contributing to the vineyard’s signature minerality and taut structure. Its name, which translates to “stone quarry,” reflects this rocky terroir that shapes the wines’ character. Meursault Perrières is known for its crystalline purity, vibrant acidity, and tightly coiled energy. Kelley has described the wines as “chiselled” and “highly tensile,” offering finesse alongside power. Similarly, Morris highlights that Perrières produces wines with “grace and elegance, often comparable to Montrachet in the best years.” As such, it represents the epitome of Meursault’s potential, combining richness and depth with the finesse associated with top-tier white Burgundies. These qualities make Perrières an essential reference point for understanding the expressive capabilities of Côte de Beaune whites.
A local merchant in Singapore invited a few customers and friends to his home for an extended lunch and blind tasting. Here were my observations from the afternoon:
- In terms of style, producer trumps both vintage and terroir. It was really crazy how different these wines were. You asked yourself in some flights if there was any similarities at all.
- The classic Perrieres style is crisp, airy, mineralic. The best wines were sublime (Lafon, Ampeau, Pierre Morey).
- Unfortunately there were far too many oxidative bottles, i.e., 4/15 (27%!!) showed premox. A real pity given the price of them.
- Since the premox issue has gotten better recently due to research and innovation (back to earlier picking, more reductive wine making, normal sulfur levels, Diam corks, etc.), I recommend to stay away from white Burgundy that is older than 2017 unless you really know which producers/vintages were less affected
Tasting Notes
Aperitiv
2002 Pol Roger Champagne Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill 96 Points
From Magnum. Really complete. Feels like in the peak drinking window, notes of lime, pear, brioche, bakery, nuts. Wonderfully complex. Good acidity, lively mousse.
Flight 1
2014 Yves Boyer-Martenot Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières Flawed
This wine was totally out of character for a 2014, rich and ripe, nutty, Madeira notes, oak. Premox?
2013 Henri Boillot Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières 95 Points
Crisp and clean nose, Very flinty and mineralic. Many said it was Puligny style. I really loved this. Great wine. 95+
2004 Bouchard Père et Fils Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières 90 Points
Pop corn hers, lots of green aspargus, also a bit out of character for a Meursault. Good acidity on the palate not not very typical.
Flight 2
2011 Joseph Drouhin Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières 95 Points
Very classic nose of pop corn, cream, oak, oyster shell. Crisp and mineralic palate. Everybody loved this and it stole the flight. 95-96
2009 Domaine François Mikulski Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières Flawed
Another wine that had clear oxidative notes. Molasses, sugar cane, good acidity on the palate still but marked from oxidation.
2006 Bouchard Père et Fils Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières 93 Points
Tight and closed, some grassy notes, not much aroma. The palate was very well balanced with good acidity. Looks like this one needs more time.
Flight 3
1993 Robert Ampeau & Fils Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières 96 Points
From a late Domaine release, pristine bottle. Golden color. A lot of Wows on the table from the first smells. This bouquet had it all. Orange peel, flint, lemon curd, grass, flowers, very deep and complex. The palate was crisp as well with excellent freshness and length. WOTN together with the 2009 Comte Lafon. 96+
1992 Nicolas Potel Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières 93 Points
Medium orange color, evolved, clearly. Many people liked this but the nose had a clear streak of botrytis, smelled like 80% white Burg, and 20% Sauternes. Good complexity but off character.
2006 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières Flawed
This bottle had a clear oxidative touch of bruised apples as well. Should not be for such a young vintage.
Flight 4
1999 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières 92 Points
Rich nose of bee wax, nuts, red apples, is there a touch of oxidation? may be. In any case the wine was closed but had racy acidity. Disjointed, some loved it more than me. May be needs more time. 92+
1988 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières 96 Points
Right of the bat this wine left now doubt how good it was. Complex nsoe of fresh flowers, lemon curd, even some cranberries and barnyard funk that you would normally associate with a red Burg. Very grand
2003 Pierre Morey Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières 96 Points
Clean and crisp nose of lemons, minerals and oyster shell. Fresh palate, good acidity, long finish. Big surprise when it was revealed that this is a 2003. Kudos to Pierre Morey, what an achievement in this vintage.
Flight 5
2007 Joseph Drouhin Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières Flawed
This wine also had aromas of bruised apples, oxidative. It was not bad but no where near the stellar 2011 we had earlier. Rating withheld.
2008 Michel Bouzereau et Fils Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières 94 Points
Fresh, complex, mineralic and zesty. Solid wine, hard to fault just tonight with the stiff competition, the aromatic persistence was a bit too short for a higher score.
2009 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières 97 Points
Another stunner from Lafon in these flights. So clean and crisp, no heat of 2009 visible. Nose of minerals, match sticks, green apple, lemon curd. Impressive from start to finish.
Author: Christian Raubach, WSET III, FWS, WSG Champagne Master
August 2019