After Crurated organized a splendid dinner in Zurich with Jean-Nicolas Méo, they followed it up with an opportunity to visit the domain during their spendid Jund Burgundy trip for its customers. An opportunity not to miss. I introduced the Domaine in my last post but happily republish the key facts again here.
Domaine Méo-Camuzet is one of the top names in Burgundy today, known for its rich, polished, and age-worthy wines, especially from Vosne-Romanée. But for much of its history, the domaine didn’t even make its own wines—many of its vineyards were leased out under métayage agreements. That changed in the late 1980s when Jean-Nicolas Méo took over and began bottling under the estate’s name. His biggest influence? Henri Jayer, the legendary Vosne-Romanée winemaker, who mentored Jean-Nicolas and shaped the domaine’s style. Today, Méo-Camuzet is firmly established as one of the leading estates in the Côte d’Or.
Jayer had been farming some of Méo-Camuzet’s top vineyards for decades, and when the leases ended, he guided and trained Jean-Nicolas as he transitioned into running the domaine himself. Jayer’s influence was profound, particularly in winemaking techniques, including:
- Destemming: Jayer was famous for always destemming his grapes, Méo-Camuzet continues this approach as a principle, but will step away from it ocasionally when he feels adding some stems can improve acuvée, eg, adding some freshness or reducing alc level.
- New oak usage: Méo continues a traditional oak re regime, that varies depending on the wine’s classification. Grand Cru, up to 100%, Premier Cru 60-70% and village / Bourgogne <50%). Generally, they employ a moderate approach with lighter toast barrels.
- Precision and elegance: Jayer’s philosophy of making wines that were both concentrated and elegant left a lasting impact.
The domaine has some prime vineyard holdings. Its lineup includes heavy hitters like Richebourg Grand Cru and, of course, the famous Cros Parantoux 1er Cru, a tiny but highly prized vineyard that Jayer himself helped put on the map. Meo and Emmanuel Rouget are the only two producers with holdings of this plot. There’s also a strong selection of Vosne-Romanée and Nuits-Saint-Georges premier crus, such as Les Brûlées and Les Boudots, plus a Corton Perriere and a Corton Rognet Grand Cru from the hill of Corton. There are also a series of wines under their negoce label (purchased fruit) Méo-Camuzet Frère & Soeurs, ranging from Village to Grand Cru. I personally like the Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Cras and Les Feusselottes from that portfolio.
Méo-Camuzet’s domaine wines are known for their darker pitched, deep aromatics and notable structure, combining generous fruit and well-integrated tannins and oak. Unlike some other Vosne-Romanée producers, the domaine de-stems its grapes, leading to a concentrated style rather than a whole-cluster profile. These wines are built for the long haul – often needing 10-20 years to fully hit their stride – but they’re always full of personality and precision.
Given the combination of exceptional terroir and Jayer-inspired winemaking, it’s no surprise that Méo-Camuzet’s wines are highly sought-after. Prices reflect that, especially for the flagship bottlings, which are snapped up quickly by collectors. Critics like Jasper Morris, William Kelley, and Neal Martin consistently praise the wines, with Kelley describing them as “sumptuous and aromatically refined.” Clive Coates once called them “modern Burgundy at its very best.”
Jean-Nicolas Méo leading through the tasting in his cellar in Vosne
The 2023 Vintage
We tasted the 2023 vintage in the cellar with Jean-Nicolas and his son Tristan. Jean-Nicolas mentioned the following
- 2023 very hot during harvest, ripe, but no hydric stress. Alc went from 11.5 to 14 percent in 1 week. You had to harvest within 3 days, so it was hard to get every plot at the exact right moment.
- In general the acidity of 2023 low but the pH is low too so the wines are not flabby.
- From my tasting, I would say: sunny but fresh. A lot to like in the 2023 reds
Left: A group of astute wine collectors from Korea joint the trip as well. Right: With Tristan Camuzet who is alredy in best summer spirint and attire
Tasting Notes
2023 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Clos Saint Philibert Blanc, 92 Points
Perched at nearly 400 meters altitude, this monopole once again overperforms its modest designation. The 2023 reveals striking reduction on the nose—intense and flinty—before unfurling into aromas of orchard fruit and white flowers. The palate is lively and succulent, with racy acidity underpinning a surprisingly rich core of fruit. A thrilling vintage for this site, which has reached new levels of ripeness without sacrificing its tension.
2023 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Marsannay, 92 Points
Deeply pitched and brooding, this Marsannay leads with notes of blackberries, licorice, and crushed violets. Generous fruit is framed by firm but fine-grained tannins, making for an accessible but serious wine. This is a textbook example of how good winemaking can elevate an appellation in the ascendant.
2023 Méo-Camuzet Frère et Sœurs Chambolle-Musigny, 92 Points
More reticent than the Marsannay, the Chambolle reveals a subtle aromatic profile of blue fruit, sandalwood, and dried herbs. There’s a delicacy here, with cool fruit tones and a lifted finish. A hint of eucalyptus adds nuance. This is promising but will need time to emerge fully.
2023 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Aux Boudots, 93 Points
Les Boudots displays the domaine’s characteristic polish, with aromas of cassis, plum, and pine resin mingling with hints of licorice and spice. The tannins are supple and finely rendered, so typical for this Vosne-adjacent NSG cru. Elegantly muscular and poised to age. 93-94
2023 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Chaumes, 94 Points
A notable step up in aromatic clarity and finesse, the Chaumes offers scents of dark berries, violets, incense, and crushed stone. The tannins are powdery and fine, lending a sense of restraint to the wine’s rich mid-palate. This is poised and perfumed, an archetype of Vosne elegance.
2023 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Clos Vougeot94 Points
The Clos de Vougeot leads with airy red and blue fruits, lifted and light on its feet. The attack is supple, but the wine gains structure on the back end, with some unresolved grip. There is a slight dip in the mid-palate, but this may fill in with time in bottle. A question mark for now, but the elements are there. 93-95
2023 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Corton-Perrières, 94 Points
More savory and overtly mineral than the Clos de Vougeot, the Corton Perrières shows notes of wild herbs, licorice, and crushed rocks. It’s taut and tensile on the palate, with earthy undertones and a compact core of fruit. Around 10% whole cluster lends aromatic lift and freshness – a choice made rarely at the domaine but judiciously in 2023. A fine expression of Corton austerity. 94-95
2023 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Brûlées, 96 Points
A standout of the tasting, the Brûlées is immediately deeper and more complete, with soaring aromatics of dark fruit, spices, earth, and violet. The palate is layered and expansive, marrying richness with drive. There’s a latent power here, but also precision and lift. The tannins are abundant but seamless. A wine of striking density, poise, and potential – clearly one of the stars of the vintage. 96-97
2019 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Chaumes, 95 Points
Given to us as a blind tasting challenge at the end of the 2023 line-up. I guessed the vintage due to its charm and immediacy. This 2019 Chaumes is all elegance and grace. Delicate red berries, rose petals, and subtle forest floor tones emerge on the nose. The palate is lacy and refined, with the tertiary notes beginning to appear. This is an exquisite wine, suave and complete, with a whisper of Vosne exoticism. A beautiful contrast to the youthful energy of the 2023.
Author: Christian Raubach, WSET III, FWS, WSG Champagne Master
July 2025