During the Matter of Taste week end Wine Advocate hosted an insightful tasting session with a selection of wines from across the world that all have received the much desired three digit score. Particularly special at this session was that all reviewers of wines were present. Erin Larkin (Australia), Stephan Reinhardt (Germany), Joe Czerwinski (Rhone), Erin Brooks (USA), Luis Gutiérrez (South America), Monica Larner (Italy), Anthony Mueller (South Africa), William Kelley (Bordeaux). Each reviewer of course spoke passionately abut the wine that they gave 100 points. It is only normal that I did not like all the wines equally as there is always personal taste. There were several discoveries in the line up, to me the most interesting one the Giaconda Chardonnay from Australia, a wine that I did not have on my radar.
Flight 1 – Whites
2018 Giaconda Chardonnay Estate Vineyard 97 Points
We have a wow nose here, reductive, reminding me of Paul Pillot, Coche or old Leflaives. This is grown 3h east from Melbourne, 2y in Oak, 30% new. Lemon curd, pop corn. Elegant palate, chalky finish. Really excellent. A discovery.
2015 Markus Molitor Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese *** (White Capsule) 98 Points
During a MOT tasting. Best wine for me in this session. Jut an awesome nose here with. Minerals, sea shells, saffron. Really juicy and racy at the same time. Awesome GG from start to finish. 98-99
2019 M. Chapoutier Ermitage Blanc l’Ermite 96 Points
During a MOT tasting. 100% Marsanne, Elegant palate, lemon, minerals, stone fruit, precise, not flabby or heavy at all, they nailed this one. Luis Gutierrez said that you should drink these either before 5 years or after 15. In between they often close and are in an awkward transition phase.
Flight 2 – Reds
2020 Casa Castillo Jumilla Piè Franco 93 Points
Another 100 pointer form WA where I am scratching my head. Rather good than great. Light on its feet, green, herbal, fresh but exciting?
2020 Sadie Family Columella 94 Points
During a MOT tasting. Swartland GSM blend apparently with Tinta Barocca. Starts with a pyrazine note, dry, structured, dark fruit, leather, smoke, spices. Finessed, precise but needs time.
2019 Familia Zuccardi Finca Piedra Infinita Supercal 92 Points
Good Malbec but far away from the 100 WA score. Zuccardi is innovative, searching for elegance through higher, limestone sites. TN: Sour cherry, touch of spices, blue fruit. Sour and with a bit of a hole in the mid palate.
2016 Fattoria Poggio di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 94 Points
I am a big fan of Poggio di Sotto but not at all of the extra oak aging Riserva concept of Italian and Spanish wines. More oxidative oak aging does not always do good to Brunello, instead they should do vineyard selection as a higher quality carve out concept. I can see this in the wine shown today. Earthy, closed, a touch rustic wine with luvage aromas emerging that may suggest this had too much air already. I would buy the normal cuvee to be safe and saving money. That one is always a winner.
2019 Outpost Cabernet Sauvignon True Vineyard 97 Points
Excellent Napa CabSav that marries ripe fruit without going overboard. Dark fruit, pine, eucalyptus, sweet spices. Fresh and elegant for its warm site. A discovery.
2016 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron 95 Points
In a closed phase, precise palate, oak present and otherwise not giving away much. Almost light for a Pauillac. Not before 2030. 95-96
2019 Vérité Le Désir 95 Points
This 83% CabFranc blend is rather young and sturdy. Cool, blue fruit, linear and precise. Solid, will improve from here, keep till 2030.
Author: Christian Raubach, WSET III, FWS, WSG Champagne Master