Marie-Thérèse Chappaz: The Queen of Swiss Wine

Marie-Thérèse Chappaz based in Valais is Switzerland’s most celebrated winemaker for whites, just like Gantenbein, based in Graubünden, is for reds. Known for her biodynamic approach and dedication to crafting wines that express the purest essence of her terroir, Chappaz produces stunning expressions of traditional Valais varietals such as Petite Arvine, Cornalin, and Païen, alongside her world-renowned sweet wines. In 2016, she made history as the first Swiss winemaker to achieve a perfect 100-point score from The Wine Advocate, earning this accolade for her exquisite Vin de Glacier, a wine that epitomizes her artistry and the unique alpine environment of Valais.

I have always been a vocal critique of Vin de Valais. Too many mediocre wines, too many scandals, too much lobbying in Bern for unnecessary lenience and short cuts. It will never work like this if you want to make wines that goes beyond the Cheese Fondue evening. Chappaz has been doing things differently in bulk wine Canton Valais, relentlessly pushing quality and boundaries. So when Stephan Reinhardt, who awarded the 100 Points, hosted a Masterclass durin ghte Matter of Taste in Zurich, it was clear that I must attend, even though I am not such a fan of the sweet wines and the varietals she uses. As she explained, Marsanne is one of her favorite grapes. It makes a wine of texture and not acidity, elegant, aromatic floral. The wine shown during the tasting was the Grain Ermitage President Troillet which is from a 1h parcel planted in 1924, on an altitude of between 500-600m.

It was very heartening to see how warm, modest, almost self-effacing Marie-Thérèse was as she led through the tasting together with Stephan.

Tasting Notes

Flight 1

2021 Marie-Thérèse Chappaz Grain Ermitage Président Troillet 94 Points
The 2019, 2020 and 2021 were very similar with the 2019 being the lightest one. The wine opens with a rich, powerful, and light toasty nose. There are layers of ripe yellow fruits, nectarine, a hint of smoke and subtle woody nuances. On the palate, fine and elegant, with a noticeable extract sweetness that enhances the impression of fruit concentration. Not much acidity, medium- but with significant phenolic grip. I think that is the key here, phenolics instead of acidity. It delivers a slight bitterness on the finish that adds sophistication provides a feeling of freshness. The balance between richness and precision is remarkable, with a long, persistent finish that underscores its exceptional craftsmanship.

2020 Marie-Thérèse Chappaz Grain Ermitage Président Troillet 93 Points
A little richer, also very aromatic, the nose offers ripe yellow fruits, nectarine, and creamy oak spice, accented by subtle smoke and acacia blossom. On the palate, medium acidity is balanced by extract sweetness and a phenolic texture, with a hint of bitterness adding complexity.

2019 Marie-Thérèse Chappaz Grain Ermitage Président Troillet 94+ Points
More acacia blossom in the top note, the palate is gracefull and light. Hawthorne, this floral dimension tames the unctuousness of the wine. I really liked this 2019

Flight 2

2014 Marie-Thérèse Chappaz Grain Ermitage Président Troillet 94 Points
The 2014 was young and fresh, more chiseled than the others, intermixed with lovely spicy elements and sappy phenolics on the finish

2009 Marie-Thérèse Chappaz Ermitage Grain d’Or Président Troillet 94 Points
The first wine where we saw some age patina, but very light. There were waxy elements accompanying the florality. Spice box texture on the finish.

2003 Marie-Thérèse Chappaz Ermitage Grain d’Or Président Troillet 93 Points
Year of the canicule, I was getting worried, but the 2003 showed well for such a warm year. Lightly oxidative with herbs, lemon, lots of phenolics.

2002 Marie-Thérèse Chappaz Ermitage Grain d’Or Président Troillet 94 Points
Back to a cooler year, creamy and dense with asparagus, cummin and citrus elements. Light oxidation.

Flight 3

2013 Marie-Thérèse Chappaz Marsanne Grain Noble 93 Points
Now to a real sweet wine. Wonderful sweetness here, apricot pie, like a mix of a Sauternes and a Muscat. I prefer Moellex to Liquoreux though in style.

1967 Marie-Thérèse Chappaz Marsanne Grain Noble 96 Points
This was thrown into the mix for Stephan Reinhardt as it is his birth year. How generous! Excellent showing, tertiary notes of mushroom, tobacco, like a Huet Chenin Moelleux. Wonderfully complex with good freshness still.