This blind tasting set out to compare Les Carmes Haut-Brion against the kingpins in Pessac-Léognan across recent vintages, each located within close proximity yet pursuing markedly different philosophies. Château Haut-Brion, 1er Grand Cru Classée, the region’s undisputed lodestar, is one of Bordeaux’s oldest and most historically significant properties, renowned for its gravelly terroir, classical proportions and unmistakable aromatic signature combining red and black fruit with smoke, sous-bois and refined mineral tension. La Mission Haut-Brion, long regarded as Haut-Brion’s darker, more muscular counterpart, traditionally offers greater density, power and tannic authority, often demanding longer cellaring while rewarding patience with depth and gravitas.
In contrast, Les Carmes Haut-Brion represents a far more radical and recent evolution within the appellation. Acquired in 2010 by real estate developer Patrice Pichet, the estate underwent a comprehensive transformation, encompassing vineyard re-planting, the construction of a striking Philippe Starck designed winery, and – most significantly – a complete stylistic rethink under winemaker Guillaume Pouthier. The wines break decisively from Bordeaux orthodoxy through the extensive use of whole-cluster fermentation, including stems, a practice more commonly associated with Pinot Noir (Burgundy) than with Cabernet and Merlot on the Left Bank. This approach yields wines of lighter body, heightened aromatic lift, pronounced herbal and savory tones, and a texture that can oscillate between ethereal and challenging, depending on vintage.
Taken together, the tasting provided a compelling lens through which to examine how terroir, tradition and philosophy intersect in modern Pessac-Léognan. Haut-Brion consistently demonstrated its ability to balance ripeness with restraint and structure, even in warmer vintages, while La Mission oscillated between brilliance and excess depending on the year. Les Carmes Haut-Brion, meanwhile, emerged as the estate most willing to provoke debate: thrilling at its best, divisive at times, but unquestionably pushing the stylistic boundaries of what Bordeaux can be. The juxtaposition of these three estates underscored not only their shared geographic heritage, but also the increasingly pluralistic nature of fine Bordeaux today. A very educative evening it was again in Fribourg at Edgar’s Carnozet with Jean Marc Quarin (www.quarin.com) guiding through the evening.
Tasting Notes
Flight 1
2015 Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion 89 Points
The nose is immediately ripe, veering toward plum and prune, with a slightly oxidative patina emerging with aeration. The palate feels pushed, the fruit tipping into over-ripeness, and the finish turns noticeably bitter, detracting from balance. Not uncommon with 2015 vintage which is showing patchy at age ten. Not a good performance today vs my earlier encounters which were much better, need to revisit this in a couple of years.
2015 Château La Mission Haut-Brion 88 Points
Rich and overtly ripe, the bouquet leans toward plum compote, confiture and bready oak-derived notes. The palate is tannic and dense but lacks freshness, finishing with a bitterness that suggests excess extraction or overripeness. A powerful but ultimately unpersuasive expression for my palate and another 2015 that showed much better upon release than today.
2015 Château Haut-Brion 94 Points
Haut Brion saved the day in this 2015 flight. The nose is harmonious and well-proportioned, offering red and black fruit, ripe strawberry and subtle spice. The palate is balanced and controlled, with no bitterness intruding on the finish. This delivers ripeness without excess and shows the estate’s classical hand even in a generous year.
Flight 2
2014 Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion 91 Points
The nose presents ripe dark fruit, gingerbread spice and a distinctly masculine profile. There is good balance on the palate despite a firm tannic bite, though a faint bitterness appears on the finish. With time in the glass, the wine turns slightly oxidative, suggesting fragility rather than evolution.
2014 Château La Mission Haut-Brion 92 Points
Youthful and primary, this opens with bright red fruit and a poised, elegant demeanor. The palate is clean and well-mannered but feels somewhat understated, lacking depth and complexity. Correct and refined, if not especially memorable.
2014 Château Haut-Brion 94 Points
Richer and riper than its peers yet stopping short of excess, the nose displays commendable complexity. The palate has substance but reveals a slight hollowness through the mid-palate. Still, the overall impression is one of authority and controlled power.
Flight 3
2016 Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion 95 Points
Darker in color than the previous flights, this shows a beautifully judged ripeness allied to a caressing, almost satin-like texture. Aromas of dark fruit and gingerbread unfold with subtlety. A composed, elegant wine that marries generosity with finesse.
2016 Château Haut-Brion 91 Points
Again deeper in color, but here the ripeness is more pronounced, pushing into rum pot and port-like territory. The palate feels heavy and overripe, though mercifully not oxidative. A powerful but less precise interpretation of this otherwise mid-bodied and elegant vintage. Rather a miss than a hit.
2016 Château La Mission Haut-Brion 95 Points
Youthful and dark-hued, this mirrors the Les Carmes stylistically, offering ripe dark fruit and plum wrapped in a smooth, caressing texture. It edges close to excess but remains just within acceptable bounds, retaining balance and structural integrity. More convincing than the Haut Brion stablemate.
Edgar (middle) hosting the event and pouring the wines, Jean-Marc Quarin (left) commenting on the wines
Flight 4
2017 Château Haut-Brion 96 Points
A compelling expression of ripe fruit allied to beautifully integrated oak. The palate is airy, racy and irresistibly charming, delivering immediate pleasure without sacrificing class. A crowd-pleaser in the best sense of the term, in a well judged mid-bodied appearance. Cooler vintages can have the upper side sometimes.
2017 Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion 97 Points
Even more impressive than the Haut-Brion next to it, this combines superb ripeness with immaculate balance. Red fruit, vibrant acidity and spice are woven into a graceful yet powerful frame. More depth, structure and aromatic complexity elevate this to a truly outstanding showing. Surprizingly good showing, first time I am rating a 2017 Bordeaux higher than a 2016 one. Let’s see if this persists over time with this Cru.
2017 Château La Mission Haut-Brion 92 Points
Riper than the other two, the nose veers toward plum, prune and black tea. The palate feels comparatively diluted and warm, with a chalky texture that lacks the equilibrium of its peers. Pleasant, but clearly outshone in this flight.
Flight 5
2019 Château La Mission Haut-Brion 95 Points
Deep in color and unapologetically ripe, this comes across as almost Californian in its fruit profile. The structure is sufficient to support the richness, but the style leans toward a sun-drenched interpretation of Bordeaux.
2019 Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion 96 Points
A striking contrast to the other wines in the flight. The nose is marked by leather, reduction, farmyard and cola notes, with a light, bready character, VA? The palate is surprisingly light-bodied and distinctive, almost recalling Jura-natural wine influenced style. Polarizing, but compelling.
2019 Château Haut-Brion 95 Points
Initially muted, the nose gradually reveals dense, ripe fruit. The palate is full-throttle yet controlled, baroque in style but underpinned by impeccable acidity. A rich but intellectually satisfying Haut-Brion.
Flight 6
2021 Château Haut-Brion 94 Points
Calm, composed and harmonious, this displays excellent balance and structure. The palate clearly shows more depth and authority than CHB and MHB next to it, making it the most convincing wine of the flight.
2021 Château La Mission Haut-Brion 91 Points
Closed and youthful, offering limited aromatic complexity at present. Despite some overripe elements, the palate feels light and oddly dilutive, suggesting imbalance. Needs time, though questions remain.
2021 Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion 91 Points
Light-bodied with bready notes and pronounced green, asparagus-like tones. While intriguing in theory, the verdant character dominates, tipping the balance away from harmony.
Flight 7
2020 Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion 92 Points
Expressive and ripe on the nose, with dark fruit, vanilla oak and underlying green notes. The palate is powerful but slightly dry and phenolic, suggesting heat stress. Good, but with question marks on the tannins.
2020 Château Haut-Brion 96 Points
A superbly balanced wine, offering red fruit, spice and sous-bois with seamless integration. The palate is elegant and authoritative, delivering a truly grand expression of the vintage. Clearly best in flight.
2020 Château La Mission Haut-Brion 94 Points
Muted at first, gradually revealing ripe fruit and an attractive liquorice note. Closed but promising, this demands patience and should unfurl with bottle age. Out-shined by its brother HB in this flight. Hard to score, let’s give 94 today with upside from here. Do not touch this before 2035
Market prices and scores of the selected wine critics
Flight 8
2018 Château La Mission Haut-Brion 90 Points
Ripe but aromatically muted, offering little beyond primary fruit. Correct, yet lacking excitement or depth. 2018 shows also here that the jury is still out on this vintage as head often goes against refined aromatics.
2018 Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion 88 Points
A disconcerting nose combining asparagus and ripe fruit, a clash that carries through to the finish. Disjointed and difficult to appreciate today, to be revisited at a later stage. 88 points for now.
2018 Château Haut-Brion 93 Points
Ripe and controlled but aromatically also reserved reserved. Neither overripe nor expressive at this stage, suggesting a wine that is currently closed and difficult to assess fully. The best of the trio in this flight but also with little excitement overall. Upside from here, do not touch before 2035. 93+
Flight 9
2022 Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion 96 Points
Delicate yet expressive, with soft ripeness and a light frame. Subtle green nuances add tension rather than detract. A wonderfully poised, nuanced interpretation of the vintage. 2022 delivers!
2022 Château Haut-Brion 96 Points
Lighter and more fluid than expected, yet highly convincing. Notably different from the richer 2018 and 2020, this delivers freshness, precision and a superbly dry, tannic finish. A quietly great wine. 96+
2022 Château La Mission Haut-Brion 95 Points
Caressing and polished, with ripe fruit that stops short of excess. Slightly richer than the Haut-Brion, with a firm, dry finish. Very good, if marginally less complete. This will need time till 2035 before it will show its best.
Author: Christian Raubach, WSET III, FWS, WSG Champagne Master
February 2026
