Larmandier-Bernier is based in Vertus on the Côte des Blancs, is a pioneering grower Champagne known for its deep commitment to terroir expression and biodynamic viticulture. The estate has been family-owned for generations and is currently run by Pierre and Sophie Larmandier. Remarkably, the family transitioned to organic farming in the late 1990s and became one of the earliest adopters of such practices in Champagne, well before the trend took off. This philosophy emphasizes low intervention in both vineyard and cellar, ensuring that the unique chalk-rich soils of their Premier and Grand Cru vineyards shine through in their wines. William Kelly from Wine Advocate notes in one of his recent reports “today, Larmandier-Bernier numbers among the Côte de Blanc’s – and Champagne’s – finest estates, and with some 19 hectares of vines, their wines are happily not as hard to find as those released by the region’s smallest micro-producers”. I fully echo that. Together with Agrapart they have become the most famous after Grower Champagne in the Cote de Blanc.
The style of Larmandier-Bernier is one of purity, and precision, reflecting the chalky soils of the Côte des Blancs. The wines combine creamy textures from full malolactic fermentation with vibrant minerality, minimal dosage, and a focus on natural processes with indigenous yeast fermentation. This approach results in vinous, age-worthy Champagnes that balance richness and tension, earning acclaim for their crystalline elegance and gastronomic versatility. Larmandier-Bernier has become a benchmark for grower Champagne, inspiring many others to follow a similar path of biodynamic farming and terroir-focused winemaking.
Key cuvées include “Longitude” (sourced from chalky Grand Cru soils of Avize, Oger, and Vertus), “Latitude” (from clay-rich soils), and “Terre de Vertus,” a zero-dosage Blanc de Blancs from a single terroir. Their top Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Cuvées are “Vieille Vigne du Levant” and “Les Chemins d’Avize“. Interestingly VV du Levant is from Cramant and was named VV du Cramant before but due to confusion in the market between Cramant (a Grand Cru village in Champagne) and Cremant (tranditional method sparkling wine from France other of Champagne). Levant was chosen becasue the vineyards are east facing.
Tasting Notes
NV Larmandier-Bernier, Rosée de Saignée, 91 points
Most rosé in Champagne is made by adding red still wine to the white still wine before the second fermentation. This technique, which is forbidden on most still wine appellation to make rosée wine, is the standard in Champagne because with this the result can be much better controlled, i.e., you will know exactly how much to add and the result is consistent. The saignée or maceration method one should rather say is where you let the pressed red grapes have contact with the skins until these grape skins have bled enough red color and phenolics into the white wine to the desired level. The result is often a darker colored rosé Champagne. Laurent-Perrier is famous for it and many growers chose this method as it is more closer aligned with “real” rosé wine making. Tasting note: Lots of blackberry, cherry, earthy elements, some herbs, and a little bitterness on the finish, typical for rosé de saignee. This is a richer, food friends rosé rather than just an aperitif wine.
NV Larmandier-Bernier, Longitude, 93 points
Interesting nose here, not just your typical BdB citrus but also almond, oak, baking spices. Good stuffing on the palate, low dosage feeling, some phenolics. Precise and long. Very good.
2008 Larmandier-Bernier, Terre de Vertus, 96 Points
Fantastic nose, subtle oxidative nose, bruised apples, Selosse style. Very good palate, dense, cinnanom spice, touch of oak. Wonderful.
2012 Larmandier-Bernier, Les Chemins d’Avize, 96 Points
Excellent freshness with bruised apples notes showing oak aging. Citrus, orchard fruit. Lively and bubbly, very young still so wait a bit before drinking. An excellent, BdB, Avize in style, which means luckily not as lean as Mesnil.
2009 Larmandier-Bernier, Les Chemins d’Avize, 94 Points
Citrus fruit dominating the nose, clearly BdB in style. Racy with lots of lemon and green apple, good fruit core, dry but not lean. Good but not as grand as the 2012.
2012 Larmandier-Bernier, Vieille Vigne de Levant, 96-97 Points
A really wonderful showing. Opened up quickly in the glass and showed wonderful aromas of citrus, flowers and cinnamon apples. Lots of material and phenolics on the palate, succulent yet appropriately dry on the finish. I can see why William Kelly was praising this. Young, wait till 2028.
2010 Larmandier-Bernier, Vieille Vigne de Levant, 96 Points
Expressive and complex nose, especially for a Blanc de Blanc it has creaminess, reminding me of a richer version of Krug’s Clos du Mesnil which I recently tasted during a vertical. Excellent tertiary nose here as well with bruised apples, bready, flowers and spices. Ready now.
2011 Larmandier-Bernier, Vieille Vigne de Levant, 94 Points
Very good result for the difficult 2011 vintage. Light lemon color. Lighter than the 2010 or 2012. Expressive nose with smoky and earthy, grassy elements. Dry and refined taste, less in the citrus spectrum, more in the herbs, green apple and almond space, elegant and sophisticated. Very successful, but the lightness of the 2011 vintage can’t fully hide.
Author: Christian Raubach, WSET III, FWS, WSG Champagne Master
December 2021