Domaine Jean-Marc Millot is a small Burgundy estate, now led by Jean-Marc’s daughter, Alix Millot. Alix Millot took over the winemaking and vineyard management in 2014, and under her guidance, the wines have reached new levels of refinement and complexity. The estate operates with an organic approach to farming, reflecting a commitment to quality and respect for terroir. Jasper Morris has praised the wines for their finesse, while other commentators highlight their ability to “delight” and express the best of Burgundy’s traditional values.
Millot was an unknown producer to me until now and in general still under the radar and therefore attractively priced, relatively. There was a series of tastings organized in Singapore during traditional “Asia tour” of Burgundy producers in January, so I took the opportunity get to know this estate in a Master Class. How are the wines, any good? was the question to answer here. I can confirm this with a capital Yes. The wines are aromatically characterful, complex. Structurally on the robust side but not rustic, need time in the cellar. If you find some bottles try them. The wines below were tasted during a masterclass and a walkabout on the following day.
Tasting Notes
2013 Jean-Marc Millot Côte de Nuits Villages Aux Faulques, 89 Points
The lightest among the four vintages. Lovely aromas of red fruit, game and spice. A bit light in the mid palate and not as good as 14/15/16.
2014 Jean-Marc Millot Côte de Nuits Villages Aux Faulques, 92 Points
Wow, this was the surprise of the line up. A softer version of 2015, elegant mouthfeel and great aromatic complexity for a village around musk, meat, herbs, red fruit. You have to like that sauvage aroma mix here otherwise it is not your wine.
2015 Jean-Marc Millot Côte de Nuits Villages Aux Faulques, 92 Points
Brooding nose of earth, spice, game, red fruit. A touch dense and rustic on the palate but not such that you would feel that it will not dissolve with age. Needs till 2020.
2016 Jean-Marc Millot Côte de Nuits Villages Aux Faulques, 92 Points
Lovely fruity nose also here with earthy notes, this is kind of a half way house between 2015 and 2014. Very good quality for a villages. 92+
2015 Jean-Marc Millot Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots, 93 Points
Earthy nose, dense, some stems, darker fruit. Quite sturdy for a Suchots, touch rustic but aromatically interesting.
2016 Jean-Marc Millot Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots, 94 Points
Dark and red fruit intermixed with spices and earth, the palate here is more polished than in the 2015, so I prefer this vintage. 94
2015 Jean-Marc Millot Clos Vougeot Grand Maupertuis, 95 Points
From Grand Maupertui, upper part of the Clos. A brooding, spicy, animalic, rich and dense wine, impressive. Clearly a long distance runner. Reminds of the Clos de Vougeot VV of Chateau de La Tour style wise. Great showing, drink after 2030.
Alix Millot explaining the plots in Echezeaux
2015 Jean-Marc Millot Echezeaux, 95 Points
Wow, lots of structure and lots of aroma here, a touch more sophisticated it feels than the Clos Vougeot but really like a close sibling to it. Great wine as well but you have to like the more sturdy Burgundy style, put this next to a Chambolle and you will know what I mean. In any case, Millot has three different plots in Echezeaux (Echezeaux du dessus, Poulailleres, Clos St.Denis) and it shows in the sophisticated aromas of this wine. 95-96
2016 Jean-Marc Millot Echezeaux, 94 Points
From three different plots (Echezeaux du dessus, Poulailleres, Clos St.Denis) in Ech making it a complete, complex wine. Similar to the 2015, solid structure, nice aromatic complexity with spice earth and game. A bit more blue fruit than the 2015 but equally impressive. I wonder how long this producer can stay under the radar.
2015 Jean-Marc Millot Grands Echezeaux, 96 Points
Small production and quite difficult to find these days. Loved it from the first sip. Surprisingly soft for the Millot style, ripe red fruit, spices, some barnyard and a spicy finish. Velvety mid mouth feel. Much softer than the 2014 Ech for example. A very good Grands Echezeaux. Give it some time and it will be a treat after 2030.
2014 Jean-Marc Millot Grands Echezeaux, 96 Points
I had this during a Paulee dinner a few months later, but for completeness added it here. Wow, really nice nose with lots of deep and wild aromas, spices, earthy, red fruit. Top quality.
Author: Christian Raubach, WSET III, FWS, WSG Champagne Master
January 2018