I met Veronique Sanders, President of Chateau Haut Bailly during a Tasting with Atherton wine Taipei in early 2006 together with her husband Alexander van Beek who runs Chateau Giscours and Chateau du Tertre . I took this opportunity to ask her if I could make a stage at Chateau Haut Bailly during the 2006 harvest when I planned to be on sabbatical. Veronique not only agreed to my proposal but went miles beyond that. She put me into the team of oenology stagières for the whole month which enabled me to see and participate in all elements necessary to harvest and make a wine. It turned out to become one of the most memorable experiences in my wine journey. Here is what I learned.
- Harvest is done parcel by parcel, every morning we helped pick sample grapes from different plots which technical director Gabriel Vialard then analyzed in the laboratory to decide which parcels will be picked during the day
- Chateau Haut Bailly is lucky that many of its harvest pickers are friends from the neighborhood which gives them great flexibility to decide what to pick when
- Harvest is hard labor – we are in the agricultural sector after all. Especially picking grapes is really hard work as they are low down on the height of the knee. So you spending the whole day crouched and in the evening your back and thighs really hurt. Also the picking speed of the experienced participant is really fast. I was never able to keep up.
- An fun part is the work at the sorting table, where you really see the journey from crate to cat.
- The cellar is a bustling place during harvest. So much going on, observing and controlling the fermentation.
- I was flabbergasted to learn how sweet red wine grape juice. Grape juice for drinking that you buy in supermarkets would have ca 8% alcohol if fermented, A Bordeaux red has ca 13-14%. So it’s un-fermented grape juice tastes like a glass or drinking grape juice with a big soup spoon of sugar added. Mind boggling.
- Once fermentation starts, the sweetness subsides and about half way through you have the half fermented must called “Bourry” in French or “Sauser” in German. It is really delicious but because it is full of yeast you have to be careful how much you drink of that if you don’t want to explode from bloating.
- Once the must is fully fermented it equally mind boggling how tannic the fresh Cabernet Sauvignon wine is before it goes into the barrels for the elevage
- Harvest season is also Sep (French version of the Funghi Porcini) season in Bordeaux and in Maître de Chais Jean-Christophe Paignac is an avid Sep gatherer, who returned with loads of mushrooms after every week end. A treat together with a glass of Chateau Haut Bailly.
I want to thank Veronique Sanders, Gabriel Vialard and the entire Chateau Haut Bailly team for their warm welcome and the generous opportunity to be able to participate in the 2006 harvest. A experience I will never forget.
Tasting Notes of some of my preferred Chateau Haut Bailly vintages
2022 Chateau Haut Bailly, 96 Points
During En Primeur. Very well done, lots of dark fruit and pine aromas. Fresh, excellent structure, the tannin quality is really precise and polished. 95-97
2016 Chateau Haut Bailly, 98 Points
Like all 2016 this is a wine of classic proportions. What make this vintage so interesting is the well measured proportions. There is so much depth in the aromatics combined with a laser focused palate. Stylistically similar to 2010, but lighter, while the 2015 is more similar to the 2009. Dont touch this before 2035.
2010 Chateau Haut Bailly, 98 points
Tasted at the Chateau. Having tasted all Haut Bailly from 1995-2010 (most of them when I worked there during a sabbatical in 2006), this is most likely the best wine they made in recent history, the technical director also feels so. Ultra classic and dense with lots of dark fruit and freshness. Lots of blue and black fruit, smoke and foresty notes. The big surprise though is the softness of tannins, as big and present as they are. Having had the spectacular 1961, I think this wine will go a long, long way and my note still has upside potential. Wow!
2009 Chateau Haut Bailly, 96 Points
Tasted blind during a 100 Point comparison. This wine has received 100 points from Wine Advocate. Dark purple. Expressive nose of dark fruit, very deep and brooding, forest floor, pine. The palate is soft and creamy, full bodied and caressing. Really nice, a touch of alcohol at the finish is preventing an even higher score. BTW, as previously stated, I personally think the 2010 is an even better wine than this. So, spare yourself the 100 point price premium and go with the 2010 is my recommendation.
1990 Chateau Haut Bailly, 97 points
During a Pessac-Leognan themed dinner. This was the WOTN. Captivating nose with the aromatic kaleidoscope only aged Bordeaux can provide. Wet forest floor, spices, game some red, cranberry compote elements as well. Soft palate, nice fruit as expected from 1990. Fully mature. Enjoy and drink up if you have this in the cellar. The dinner confirmed the aromatic power of the Pessac Leognan appellation, lots of characterful wines here.
1961 Chateau Haut Bailly, 97 Points
A coincidence brought me to that bottle which almost does not exist anymore. Bought in Taiwan when the Veronique Sanders was there to present her wines and found out that the owner the store she held the tasting had two bottles left. So she bought one and I did as well before anyone else could. I later drank it with the owner of the store and a few regular customers of the tasting group. The wine was in excellent shape, no signs of being tired and old. Very good acidity with cool, dark fruit and noticeable menthol notes, a bit of Balsamico too. Very classic in style.
Author: Christian Raubach, November 2006
