Founded in 1829 in the village of Aÿ in the Montagne de Reims, Champagne Bollinger is one of the most iconic and historically significant houses in Champagne. The house was established by Hennequin de Villermont, Paul Renaudin, and Jacques Bollinger, whose name it eventually adopted. The most impactful member of the Bollinger family lineage through the years was Madam Lily Bollinger who ran the business from 1941-1971, established the brand globally and made many important innovations, including the creation of the R.D. cuvée. Bollinger has remained family-owned for most of its existence and became a benchmark for Pinot Noir-driven Champagnes, known for their structure and longevity. The house also gained considerable international recognition in the 20th century, particularly through its long-standing association with the British royal family and its prominent role in the James Bond films.
Bollinger farms over 170 hectares, more than 85% of which are classified as Grand or Premier Cru vineyards, primarily located in the Montagne de Reims and Aÿ. This unusually high proportion of estate-owned vineyards allows the house greater control over quality and style. Production is estimated at around two million bottles per year, which places Bollinger among the medium-sized Grandes Marques. The house is also notable for its traditional winemaking practices, including fermentation in old oak barrels, long lees aging, and a commitment to reserve wines stored in magnums under cork—methods that are rare even among the best grower-producers.
The Bollinger style is unmistakably Pinot Noir-led, with richness, depth, and vinous character at the core. Most cuvées feature a high percentage of Pinot Noir, often from Aÿ and Verzenay, lending them a firm structure and aging potential. The use of aged oak barrels for vinification adds oxidative complexity and texture. This approach is most evident in wines like La Grande Année and R.D. (Recently Disgorged), which are both aged extensively on the lees. Bollinger’s commitment to oxidative style, full malolactic fermentation, and time-intensive practices result in wines that are muscular yet refined, and always gastronomic.
Among Bollinger’s most renowned cuvées are the Special Cuvée (their non-vintage base cuvée of high quality), La Grande Année (their vintage cuvée), and R.D., which is the Grande Annéee disgorged much later to emphasize secondary and tertiary complexity. A special note deserves their prestige cuvée Vieilles Vignes Françaises, made from ungrafted Pinot Noir vines in tiny plots in Aÿ, is one of the rarest and most sought-after Champagnes in the world. Critics like Peter Liem describe Bollinger’s wines as “powerful and vinous, with a deeply traditional style,” while William Kelley notes that the house “continues to impress with a combination of technical precision and artisanal methods,” singling out La Grande Année as “one of Champagne’s most consistent high-achievers.”
Our hosts went to great length to explain the vineyard sites, grape varieties, technical aspects of phenolic and sugar ripeness
The 2022 Harvest
Bollinger has an interesting community program named 1829, organized via an App, making it easy to follow what is going on at the estate. Part of the program are both educative and fun member events throughout the year. Back in Europe, I spontaneously decided to attend their 2022 harvest day. Great decision, it was a magical day! We were not only greeted by best autumn weather but also by a charming and enthusiastic Bollinger event team who staged a great day in the vineyard, followed by a cellar tour and terrific lunch in the historical part of the estate.
May be a word on the 2022 vintage. While the wines are obviously not yet release, it looks like a very good vintage as the 2022 growing season in Champagne was marked by a warm, dry climate with abundant sunshine and several intense heatwaves, making it one of the hottest years on record. While drought conditions persisted for much of the summer, well-timed rain in mid-August helped to relieve water stress and ensured that ripening could proceed under more balanced conditions. Thanks to the region’s increasing adaptation to warmer vintages, the vines performed well, and the harvest – beginning unusually early, in late August – delivered ripe, healthy grapes with good phenolic maturity. The resulting wines are expected to reflect the warmth of the vintage, with generous fruit, round textures, and moderate acidity, though Chardonnay from cooler sites retained impressive freshness I was told. Overall, 2022 looks to be a ripe and harmonious vintage, with broad appeal and solid aging potential, though likely more approachable in youth than the more taut and structured 2008 or 2012.
Bollinger is known for fermenting and aging its vins clairs in oak. The used barrels come from estates in Burgundy. It has its own cuverie to repair barrels.
Tasting notes of wines served over lunch
NV Bollinger Champagne Brut Rosé Champagne Blend, 93 Points
Served as an aperitif in the vineyard. I love the raspberry and spice notes here. This is a serious, gastronomic rosé as well with structure and complexity, finishes appropriately dry. Well made.
NV Bollinger Champagne Special Cuvée, 93 Points
If you like a good NV of a Pinot House, this together with Philipponnat’s and Pol Roger’s NVs are my top picks. In all of these wines you will find excellent Pinot richness, brioche notes, supporting but not overdone, combined with a enough freshness and phenolics on the finish. Classic Champagne virtues.
2014 Bollinger Champagne La Grande Année, 95 Points
Discrete nose of lemon, touch of brioche, flowers. Young and crisp. Very precise and delineated. Delicate. Young and racy. This needs cellar time and has lots of potential.
2014 Bollinger Champagne La Grande Année Rosé, 93-94 Points
Very young and crisp, the 2014 raciness showing, some bruised apples. This needs time, has great potential though. More Chard than usual I am told. I would open this after 2028.
2007 Bollinger Champagne R.D., 96 Points
Beautiful mature aromas, nutty, bruised apples, sophisticated and gently evolved, good freshness on the palate at the same time. A wonderfully complete champagne.
During the lunch in the historical part of the estate, we were able to taste through the impressive set of current releases – from NV to R.D.
Author: Christian Raubach, WSET III, FWS, WSG Champagne Master
September 2022