When you read a wine book you will learn that the main difference between a Grower champagne vs. a champagne from a Grande Maison is that the Grower champagne is exclusively made from the grapes of vineyards that are owned by the grower itself an not from purchased grapes which is the norm for the champagne of the Grandes Maison. This sentence is as correct as it is irrelevant to a end consumer like us. Who cares if your grapes are purchased or not – if you end up making the same style of champagne with it it is a mere legal attribute.
The main difference is that leading Growers are NOT making the same STYLE of Champagne than the Houses, that is the point. We will give a very general summary here, but if you want to know more details on this, read our Champagne 101 primer on this site (link). In the past Growers made the pretty much the same style of champagne than the houses and today the bottom end of Growers still do, but at the top end it is entirely different. A group of mavericks and innovators led by Anselm Selosse and Francis Egly started to apply new techniques, borrowed from Burgundy, to make their champagne. Now both players make very good champagne at the top end, Growers even at the bottom end while the bottom end of Houses is to be avoided – uninspiring yet still expensive. In short, what is the main difference of the Grower champange:
- Lower yields, leading to riper grapes, leading to a denser, more vinous Champagne. Like a proper white wine with bubbles. Some of these offerings are no longer are intended to drink while you sit, not while you stand (aka, for the dinner table, not for the aperitif)
- Less dosage. Because the grapes are riper and more fruity, you don’t need less sugar to reach the desired balance on the palate
- Site expression and terroir focus instead of blending regionally. For the first time we have a plethora of single vineyard, single grape champange
- Introducing oxidative styles. A completely new category spearheaded by Selosse. Shockingly different – love it or hate it.
All of the above leads to a diverse set of outcomes. Drinking Grower champagne is like an endless cheese buffet where every cheese is different than the other, allowing discussions and debates. We saw that in tonight’s line up. Thanks to our participants who did not hold back to bring the cream of the crop of Grower champagne, we not only had great quality across the board, but also many different styles.
Tasting Notes
Aperitif
NV Bérêche et Fils Brut Réserve, 95 Points
From MAG. Aromas of warm brioche, sweet spices, ripe apple, and pear. Vinous and creamy, showing impressive amplitude and freshness. A consistent benchmark among non-vintage Champagnes.
Flight 1
2006 Diebolt-Vallois Fleur de Passion Brut, 96 Points
From MAG. Mature nose of croissant, sweet butter, and white flowers. Rich and creamy, with lime-tinged citrus and a gently bitter finish. Generous and fully mature, more house than grower stylistically, reminding me of Taittinger CdC (which is not a bad thing).
NV Dhondt-Grellet Blanc de Blancs Cramant, 94 Points
Cool and precise, with notes of apple, crushed chalk, and lemon zest. Linear and mineral-driven, though slightly modest in length. A purist’s Blanc de Blancs.
2008 Pierre Péters Cuvée Speciale Blanc de Blancs Les Chetillons, 96 Points
Yellow fruit, hints of bruised apple and oak. Compact and taut with striking acidity, showing the steely structure of the vintage. Tertiary tones emerging.
Flight 2
2012 Larmandier-Bernier Vieille Vigne du Levant Extra Brut, 95 Points
Reticent nose with reductive hints and dense citrus. Powerful and tightly wound, with grassy, saline nuances. quite closed, clearly one to put in the cellar for a while. 94–96
NV Jacques Selosse Substance (Dég. Nov. 4th 2019), 100 Points
Likely from 2012 base. Explosively aromatic – mandarin, orange peel, black tea, and toasted brioche. Full-bodied and layered, with vibrant acidity and controlled oxidative nuance. Stunning.
NV Étienne Calsac Còmete #4, 94 Points
Expressive and fruit-forward, with apricot, honey, chamomile, and exotic spices. Textural and fresh, with fine cut and floral lift. From the get go, this was so different that I guessed that we are not in CH/PN land here in terms of variety.
Flight 3
NV Jacques Selosse Substance (Dég. Jul. 9th 2018), 96 Points
Presumably 2011 base. A shade more oxidative than the DG19, showing sandalwood, dried citrus, and sweet spice. Less dense, but complex and savory as well. 96+
NV Marie-Noëlle Ledru Grand Cru Extra Brut, 91 Points
Oxidative yet composed, with bruised apple, walnut, and pine resin. Broad across the palate; rich, earthy, and slightly rustic.
2016 Huré Frères Pinot Meunier 4 Eléments, 95 Points
Floral and lifted – rose petals, raspberry, dried herbs. Delicate and spicy with incisive acidity. A striking expression of Meunier.
Flight 4
NV Jacquesson & Fils Cuvée No. 747 Extra-Brut, 92 Points
2019 base vintage, so good material to work with. Restrained, with spice, yeasty tones, and a hint of apple cider. Medium-bodied and saline, with gentle oxidative nuances. Elegant, though outshone in this tasting. 92-93
2012 Chartogne-Taillet Les Couarres, 96 Points
Powerful and brooding, dense and fresh at the same time, the 2012 vintage showing its mettle. Salty and earth-toned, with depth and grip. Food wine par excellence.
NV Ulysse Collin Blanc de Noirs Les Maillons, 98 Points
From base 2013. Exquisite floral aromatics, raspberry, nectarine, and quince. Multi-layered and textural, yet finely etched. Outstanding clarity and complexity.
Flight 5
2022 Roses de Jeanne / Cédric Bouchard Blanc de Noirs Val Vilaine, 96 Points
Highly aromatic—rose petal, elderflower, peach, raspberry. Ethereal and expressive, yet tightly wound. Remarkable purity for such a young wine.
NV Egly-Ouriet Grand Cru VP, 94 Points
Brooding and oxidative—baked apple, cinnamon, earth, and mint. Intense and savory, showing more evolved than usual. A serious gastronomic Champagne.
NV Egly-Ouriet Grand Cru Blanc de Noirs Les Crayères 96 Points
From the modest 2017 vintage and still showing well with good density. Dark-toned and spicy – bergamot, hay, and orange peel. Medium+ bodied and structured with gentle oxidative shadings. A vinous and distinctive Pinot Noir Champagne that combines richness with elegance. Good today but I had even better samples of this from top base vintages. 96+
Encore
NV Laherte Frères Rosé de Saignée Les Beaudiers, 91 Points
Dry and focused, with crushed raspberry, earth, and herbs. Powerful for a rosé, yet retains finesse with an appropriately dry finish.
| Group Rank | Wine |
| 1 | 2013 Ulysse Collin, Les Maillons |
| 2 | NV Selosse, Substance DG19 |
| 3 | 2006 Diebolt Vallois, Fleur de Passion |
| 4 | NV, Etienne Calsac, Comète #4 2022 Roses de Jeanne, Val Villaine |
| 6 | 2008 Pierre Péters, Les Chetillons NV Egly-Ouriet, Blanc de Noirs Les Crayèrs |
| 8 | NV, Selosse, Substance DG17 2015 Huré Freres, 4 Elements Pinot Meunier |
| 10 | 2011 Chartogne-Taillet, Les Couarres |
| 11 | NV Dhondt-Grellet, Cramant NV Egly-Ouriet, VP |
| 13 | 2012 Larmandier-Bernier, VV de Levant NV Laherte, Les Baudines Rosé de Saigné NV Ledru, Grand Cru Ambonnay |
| 16 | NV Jacquesson, 747 |
Autor: Christian Raubach, WSET3, FWS, WSG Champagne Master
June 2025