We met with some serious collectors of the Confrerie de Chevalier de Tastevin over two dinners to cherish bottles from our cellars that we hold dear, but now have gotten very expensive to re-buy. That is the bad news. The good news is that Grivot, Hudelot-Noellat have less pricey vineyards that do very well. I can particularly recommend from Grivot the NSG 1er Cru Les Boudots and the Chambolle-Musigny Combe D’Orveau Village. Hudelot Noellat makes a fantastic Clos de Vougeot and Vosne les Suchots. That is where the smart money will go today. If you are shelling out top dollar for a Vosne Grand Cru, then make sure you give them proper cellar age (15+years) because only then you will get the full glory of Burgundy Grand Cru.
Tasting Notes – whites
2008 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne, 95 Points
Subtle nose of white fruit, minerals and bee wax. Enter the palate crisp and lean without being hollow on the mid mouth. This is very much in the fresh style, subtle oak influence. An intellectual Chard, good but a not quite at the level of 2010.
1989 Louis Carillon Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet, 94 Points
Mature nose of lemon curd, dried fruit, some nutty elements as well. The palate shows good energy despite the age. Not as grand as I thought, but still good. Drink up.
1989 Krug Vintage Brut, 96 Points
Wonderful mature Champagne nose with candied apple & cinnamon, vanilla, (I guess that makes apple pie) flowers, ginger. Not too oxidative for the fact that this is 30 years old. The palate stays fresh with fine perlage. Spectacular!
Tasting Notes – reds
2009 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Echezeaux, 96 Points
Medium garnet, among the darker wines of the evening. Beautiful, aromas of red and blue fruit, silky palate. Sexy, plush, yet elegant and balanced. Oak and baking spices come into play on the palate, that will need to integrate a little further. Young, can drink now but further cellaring would not harm.
2001 Domaine René Engel Grands-Echezeaux, 96 Points
René Engel’s wines are among the most spectacular of all of Burgundy. Alas, he sold the Domaine and what ever is left will break the bank if you need to purchase a bottle. Lucky that a collector brought this. The nose was a bit tired and oxidative when first opened. We were worried but luckily that blew off and the tell-tale cured meat, game and sour cherry notes of this fine producer came to bear. May be not the freshest bottle but still delicious. The subsequent owner with team Frederic Engerer from Chateau Latour / Artemis Domains, unfortunately makes much less interesting wines now.
1989 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Grands-Echezeaux, 96 Points
Like the DRC Rich89 next to it this showed its age in the nose with earthy notes, wet forest floor. Good complexity with lovely Vosne spice on the finish. Mature, drink up.
1989 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Richebourg, 96 Points
Library release ex domaine bottle. Mature color, brick, had an oxidative touch at the start but it blew off after about half an hour, hey presto we were saved. Nose of wet forest floor, dark fruit, some funk and spices. Richer than the DRC GrEch next to it, more structure. Very good but outshined by the 04Rich from Grivot which had more energy and youthful freshness. Drink up.
1989 Alain Hudelot-Noëllat Richebourg, 97+ Points
Light garnet. Expressive nose with a kaleidoscope of cured meat, leather, red fruit, roses. Wonderful! Fully mature and singing. Elegant palate, good freshness. Textbook Burg. 97+
1998 Alain Hudelot-Noëllat Richebourg, 96 Points
Dark garnet, much denser than the 2011 next to it. Intriguing nose. Red fruit with black fruit mixed, also some black tea and autumn leaves notes. May be not the last word on Hudelot-Noellat style elegance but a solid Richebourg.
2011 Alain Hudelot-Noëllat Richebourg, 97 Points
Light ruby. Wow, can a wine be more elegant and seductive than this young Richebourg? Expressive, floral nose with red fruit, violets, rose petals and also game, farmyard, cured meat. A perfect Burgundian nose for me. A ballerina on the palate, light as so many 2011 but not hollow at all. Excellent mouth feel, fresh, energetic, long finish. Can be drunk now if you are a curious cat but I am sure it will add more tertiary aromas and get even more interesting.
1998 Domaine Jean Grivot Richebourg, 93 Points
The nose was ripe with smoke, plum, red fruit and some oak. A slight oxidative touch. Rich palate, much denser and more rustic than the 2004/10 for example. May be not a fully representative bottle
2003 Domaine Jean Grivot Richebourg, 94 Points
Dark garnet. Reserved nose of dark fruit, underbrush, oak, smoke, gingerbread. This is materially riper and denser than the elegant 2004. The heat vintage fully visible. Not oxidative or overripe in any way but also not very Burgundian.
2004 Domaine Jean Grivot Richebourg, 98 Points
This was spectacular, very popular and everyone was surprised how well this 2004 shows, no greenness at all. A stunner of a wine, has it all, great nose with whole cluster, game, red fruit, baking spices. Precise palate and a fresh, endless finish.
Author: Christian Raubach, WSET III, FWS, WSG Champagne Master
June 2019