Dönnhoff dinner

The Nahe has quietly emerged as one of Germany’s most compelling regions for dry Riesling, particularly at the Grosses Gewächs (GG) level, where the interplay of diverse soils, dramatic vineyard sites, and precision-minded winemaking yield wines of remarkable depth and finesse. At the summit of this landscape stands a triumvirate of producers – Dönnhoff, Schäfer-Fröhlich, and Emrich-Schönleber – who, vintage after vintage, define the benchmarks by which German dry Riesling is judged.

Among them, Weingut Hermann Dönnhoff is a towering presence. Based in Oberhausen an der Nahe and steward of some of the region’s most iconic sites – including Hermannshöhle, Dellchen, and Felsenberg – Dönnhoff unites tradition with a crystalline, modern expression of terroir. Whether in bone-dry GG form or in the full Prädikat range, the wines are prized for their purity, structure, and longevity. A recent tasting offered the opportunity to explore the estate’s range, reaffirming its position at the very top of the German quality pyramid.

The organizer of the tasting was Ritter Weine in Schaan with the entire Ritter Family and sommelier team on site running a great event at the Wybar pairing Riesling and delicious Sushi. Guest stars were of course Gaby and Helmut Dönnhoff who went to great length explaining terroir, styles and domain history. Helmut was adding anecdotes from his career with a good dose of self-effacing humor, e.g., calling himself an “Eskimo Winzer”- who says German’s are not funny. What I retained in particular from his presentation was

Riesling needs ca. 40 hl/ha yield. Too low and the wine will become dense and flabby.
While Mosel is mainly slate, Nahe has slate (Verwitterungsschiefer, Tonschiefer) but also other soils like volcanic rock, clay, quartzite, loess and loam.
Today there is much more work done in the vineyard because customers are becoming more and more demanding and the bar is steadily rising.
He recently made significant investments into renewing the vineyard walls at Dellchen. Steep vineyards are never low investment vineyards, but the result rewards the passion.
The name Herrmanshöhle apparently came from a Roman name referring to Hermès.

Stephan Ritter and Helmut Dönnhoff during this serene summer evening in Liechtenstein

Tasting Notes

Apéritif Selections

2019 Dönnhoff Weissburgunder Blanc de Blancs (Magnum) – 91 points
This Pinot Blanc, opens with a subdued aromatic profile, still reticent from magnum. Gentle citrus notes and a whisper of florals emerge with air. On the palate, it is quietly elegant, finely etched, and supple – serving as a graceful prelude to the Rieslings to come.

2023 Dönnhoff Riesling Trocken – 88 points
An uncomplicated and refreshing introduction to the estate’s style. Notes of lemon zest and white flowers glide over a light frame. This is a charming summer quaffer, though lacking the mineral tension and drive found further up the range.

2023 Dönnhoff Riesling Tonschiefer Trocken – 92 points
A standout in the early lineup and a favorite among tasters. The Tonschiefer cuvée showcases impressive depth and a strong mineral backbone. There’s an intensity here that belies its humble classification, and the wine punches well above its weight. Fantastic QPR.

Aux Vins – Dry Rieslings from Erste Lage and Grosses Gewächs Sites

2023 Roxheimer Höllenpfad Erste Lage Riesling Trocken – 90 points
From a red sandstone site that takes its name from the vineyard’s fiery hue, this is a light, filigreed expression of Riesling. Puristic and transparent, it delivers a saline edge and a mineral core that speaks to its origin.

2023 Roxheimer Höllenpfad im Mühlenberg Riesling Großes Gewächs – 92 points
Markedly more compact and introspective than its Erste Lage sibling, this wine carries the imprint of a serious GG. Citrus pith and stony minerality dominate the taut finish. It promises more in the cellar than it gives today.

2023 Felsenberg Riesling Großes Gewächs – 93 points
From volcanic soils, the Felsenberg is poised and precise. Still youthful and aromatically reticent, it offers notes of peach, lemon oil, and a touch of mint. A wine of inner tension and elegance, with fine delineation.

2017 Felsenberg Riesling Großes Gewächs – 95 points
Now hitting its stride, the 2017 shows the payoff of time in bottle. A lifted nose of lime zest, mint, and a subtle petroleum nuance introduces a mid-palate marked by smoky flint and cool-toned fruit. Long, complex, and deeply mineral.

2023 Dellchen Riesling Großes Gewächs – 94 points
Still in its infancy, the Dellchen displays greater power than the Felsenberg, though its structure remains tightly coiled. Floral top notes and crushed nettle yield to wet stone and crystalline citrus. The precision of this wine bodes well for a promising future. 94+

2015 Dellchen Riesling Großes Gewächs – 97 points
A stunning bottle. The bouquet bursts with lime, spearmint, lemon zest, and the telltale whiff of mature Riesling petrol. Vibrant, energetic, and almost compulsively drinkable, this is Dellchen in its full glory. Helmut mentioned that 2015 is a very grand vintage and one that benefited from laying down. Now just at the beginning of its prime.

2023 Hermannshöhle Riesling Großes Gewächs – 97 points
Already remarkably expressive, the 2023 Hermannshöhle stood out as the most complete of the young GGs. Lime blossom, yuzu, chamomile, and fresh pear emerge in a cascade of aromatic complexity. The palate is impeccably balanced and layered. A wine of obvious pedigree and enormous potential. (96–98 points)

2013 Hermannshöhle Riesling Großes Gewächs – 93 points
This ten-year-old Hermannshöhle offers a broader, sunnier expression of the site, true to the 2013 vintage. Riper tones of yellow plum, pineapple, and lemon curd dominate. While less mineral-driven than some vintages, it remains well balanced, though stylistically richer, almost more Pfalz than Nahe.

Petit Dessert

2011 Hermannshöhle Riesling Spätlese Auction (Magnum) – 97 points
A glorious finale served from magnum. The nose is lifted and pure, with notes of lime, wild herbs, fresh mint, and a delicate petrol top note. On the palate, it is feather-light yet incisive, with crystalline sweetness and pulsating acidity. Brilliantly focused and undeniably grand – it will give Egon and JJ a run for the money.

The full line-up of the evening