Last time I visited Robert Groffier was in 2017. I remember it vividly, luck had it that Jeremie Cukierman, then a freshly minted MW from Paris was visiting in the same and Nicolas Groffier pulled no stops to go through the entire set of lieu dits with old and new vintages. A real treat it was. Nicolas is quite a “free thinker” of a guy, not fitting into any stereotype you may have of a Burgundy vigneron or even Frenchmen. He does it his own way and it works. So I was happy to be back a the Domaine with friends of the Confrerie de Chevalier de Tastevin de Singapore.
Based in Morey, Domaine Robert Groffier needs no introduction, the 8ha Domaine is renowned for its fragrant and complex wines, prestige and price levels speak for itself. Under Nicolas, who represents the fourth generation of the family, the estate has seen a subtle shift in style over recent years. While earlier wines were marked by generous extraction and oak influence, today there is a greater emphasis on elegance, precision, and transparency. This visit was also top class as Nicolas had, after completion of the elevate, put all his wines already back into steel tanks ready for bottling. So it was easy for him to walk around for him and draw samples of all of his Cuvées. For the first time I saw his new creations, a split of his large Amoureuses plot into two cuvees, one from sandy soils, the other from clay. And as an encore, he then opened two bottles from 2016 to show wines with some cellaring age.
Labels of all the Cuvées that Nicolas generously pulled from the tanks, the full portfolio.
Tasting Notes
This visit also confirmed that 2023 is a big success in Burgundy. The wines are similar to 2020 and 2022 with generosity but no excesses like in 2018. Luckily it is a large crop as well, so it should not be too difficult to find them once they arrive in the market in 1Q/2025.
2023 Barrel samples
2023 Domaine Robert Groffier Bourgogne Passetoutgrains, 89 Points
Barrel sample. Deep, rich red, impressive density for a base level wine. 89-90
2023 Domaine Robert Groffier Bourgogne, 88 Points
Barrel sample. Even deeper, lots of structure for the level. Will need time, but will never be a ballerina is my guess. 87-89.
2023 Domaine Robert Groffier Gevrey-Chambertin Les Seuvrées, 91 Points
Barrel sample. A stet up with softer tannins, good blue fruit. 20% new oak. 90-92.
Premier Crus
2023 Domaine Robert Groffier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Hauts-Doix, 93 Points
Barrel sample. Lovely nose, soft and caressing, elegant, good acidity. Textbook Chambolle. 92-94.
2023 Domaine Robert Groffier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Sentiers, 94 Points
Barrel sample. More material, rounder, chalky, pure red fruit, more heady and lifted, good fragrance. This had the edge today over the Haut-Doix. 93-95.
2023 Domaine Robert Groffier Bonnes Mares, 94 Points
Barrel sample. Richness of the fruit stands out, tightly woven structure, precise. Rather closed today, but with impressive material. On for the cellar, this may warrant a higher score in a few years. 94–95+.
2023 Domaine Robert Groffier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses La Délicatesse des Sables, 95 Points
Barrel sample. Noticeably lighter than the BM, parcel is higher up the slope near Musigny. A different expression, very elegant as typical for sandy soils. A wine for the Musigny purists. 94–96.
2023 Domaine Robert Groffier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses La Grâce des Argiles, 95+ Points
Barrel sample. Wow, showing well. Lifted, fruity, light, elegant, chalky. The nose of this one is better than the Sables. 95-96.
2023 Domaine Robert Groffier Chambertin-Clos de Bèze, 97 Points
Barrel sample. Best wine by far in the line up. So much aroma, so much complexity. Elegant and chalky palate. A wow wine. 97–98.
Back vintages from bottle
2016 Domaine Robert Groffier Bonnes Mares, 96 Points
Domaine visit, from btl. Expressive fresh nose, surprising sucrosité. Pure. Simply fantastic. Much more red fruit. Some sous bois and liquorice as well with dark fruit elements. Very open, very surprising. Top, wonderful!
2016 Domaine Robert Groffier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses La Délicatesse des Sables, 91 Points
Domaine visit, from btl. Nicolas mentioned that this wine was not commercialized but only use as a family wine. It showed very advanced for a 2016. Some tertiary and lovage notes. Savoury palate with a chalky finish.
Author: Christian Raubach, WSET III, FWS, WSG Champagne Master
November 2024