I visited Domaine Lafarge three times over the past two years as they did the elevage of a Hospice de Beaune auction barrel of Vonay Santenots for a group of us from the Confrerie, purchased at the 162. Hospice de Beaune auction aka vintage 2022. They do this under the sub-brand “Lafarge Terroirs” and did a fantastic job, but that is a story for another day.
Today we are focusing on the Domaine’s own wines. Based in Volnay, is one of the most historic and revered producers for Côte de Beaune reds. Established in the late 19th century, the Domaine has remained family-owned and is now run by Frédéric Lafarge and his wife, Chantal, following the retirement of Michel Lafarge. The next generation with Maxi, Clothilde and Eleonore is already working at the estate as well, so succession is on track. When you visit Lafarge you will really experience a traditional, family run Burgundy estate. No bells & whistles, marketing department or or buildings made by famous architects, just meticulous farming and steadfast adherence to traditional Burgundian winemaking. When our Confrerie group arrived, we saw the operation in full swing. Frédéric was fiddling around with a new chicken cage as a fox has eaten their life stock every night, Clothilde was driving around with a fork lift and Chantal was dealing with VAT paperwork for an export to the UK. A day in the life…
The Domaine cultivates ca. 12ha of vineyards, mainly in Volnay, including prestigious sites like Clos des Chênes and of course the Clos du Château des Ducs, a beautiful monopole, right next to their winery. They also own notable parcels in Beaune, Pommard, and the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune. All of the vineyards are biodynamically farmed, a practice the Lafarges fully embraced in 1997, making them one of the early adopters in Burgundy. Winemaking at Domaine Michel Lafarge emphasizes minimal intervention to allow the terroir to shine. The wines are vinified with natural yeasts, and new oak usage is restrained, rarely exceeding 15%. Lafarge’s reds are known for their ethereal finesse, aromatic complexity, and ability to age gracefully, drinking them young is a sin as I learned myself. A special mention also deserves one of their whites which is made from Aligoté Dorée, a later ripening, richer version of Aligoté.
As part of our visit we organized an apéro riche where we celebrate the newly finished Hospice Cuvée and compare it with with of my favorite non-Burg Pinots, Gantenbein (Switzerland/Grison), Saint-Sebaste Clos de la Perriere (Switzerland/Neuchâtel), and Felton Road Block 5 (Central Otago/New Zealand). I am glad we whet through with this plan, Clothilde and I had a few months back. It was great comparing and contrasting Pinot Noir styles, winemaking, climate around the globe with the Lafarge entire family. A wonderful visit.
Tasting Notes
This visit also confirmed that 2023 is a big success in Burgundy. The wines are similar to 2020 and 2022 with generosity but no excesses like in 2018. Luckily it is a large crop as well, so it should not be too difficult to find them once they arrive in the market in 1Q/2025.
Regional / Village
2023 Domaine Michel Lafarge Meursault, 89 Points
Barrel sample. Lots of green apple aromas jump from the glass, with notes of pear and apple pie. Fruity and approachable. 88–90.
2023 Domaine Michel Lafarge Bourgogne-Aligoté Raisins Dorés, 91 Points
Barrel sample. Precise and racy with excellent ripeness, complemented by a spicy undertone. Very good example of Aligoté, much more complex and denser than your typical Aligoé while keeping the freshness of variety. Something seek out, especially for a blind tasting. 90–92.
2023 Domaine Michel Lafarge Bourgogne Passetoutgrains L’Exception, 92 Points
Barrel sample. Very pure and caressing, with floral notes and surprising elegance. Punching well above its weight and easily the best Passtougrains in all of Burgundy. Also one that will shock a lot of people in a blind tasting. 91–93.
2023 Domaine Michel Lafarge Bourgogne, 90 Points
Barrel sample. Dark fruit on the nose, soft and caressing on the palate with good structure and balance. 89–91.
2023 Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay, 92 Points
Barrel sample. Aromatic with dark cherry and a touch of rum pot. Elegant and fragrant, with a classic Volnay profile. 91–93.
Premier Crus
2023 Domaine Michel Lafarge Beaune 1er Cru Grèves, 93 Points
Barrel sample. As expected from this plot, more structured than the Volnay AOC, with notes of rum pot and cooked cherry. Ripe fruit with a dry finish. This in particular will need cellar time. 92–94.
2023 Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay 1er Cru Les Mitans, 94 Points
Barrel sample. The earliest to be ready among the cuvées, mentioned Frederic. Bright fruit, combining elegant dark and red fruit with good depth. A very charming expression of Volnay. One of my favorites and given the price point a no brainer.
2023 Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes, 94 Points
Barrel sample. Structured and powerful, with a long, composed finish. Lots of fruit with no over-ripeness, but the firm structure will need 15 years to soften. 94–95.
2023 Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay 1er Cru Clos du Château des Ducs, 95 Points
Barrel sample. Warmer and more elegant than Clos des Chênes, with a refined, quintessentially Volnay character. Impressive. I am a big fan of the Clos de Chênes vineyard in general, but today this was the top wine in the lineup.
Author: Christian Raubach, WSET III, FWS, WSG Champagne Master
November 2024