During a dinner of the Commanderie de Bordeaux Singapore, a generous member donated Magnums of 2004 Diebolt-Vallois Fleur de Passion, Blanc de Blanc Champagne. It was stunning, so I decided to pay this family run Grower champagne a visit with a few friends.
Diebolt-Vallois is a family-run estate located in Cramant, a Grand Cru village in the Côte des Blancs, which of course is top terroir for Chardonnay. The house was established through the union of two families deeply rooted in Champagne history: the Diebolt family, established in Cramant since the late 19th century, and the Vallois family, who have cultivated vines in nearby Cuis since the 15th century. Today, Jacques Diebolt and Nadia Vallois, along with their children Arnaud and Isabelle, manage the estate with a focus on preserving tradition while continually refining their approach. The family’s efforts gained significant momentum in 1978 with the expansion of their vineyards and the construction of modern facilities, allowing the house to establish its reputation globally. Nadia Vallois received us and took a lot of time to explain her different terroirs. She even served a series of still wines from barrel and steel tanks to showcase the difference in terroir.
The NV and Millesime level entry level Champagnes are elegant, mineral-driven style, emphasizing purity and precision. As specialists in Blanc de Blancs, the house crafts Champagnes that showcase the creamy texture and delicate aromatic profile characteristic of Cramant’s chalk-rich soils. They are attractively priced and a good alternative for Taittingers Comte de Champagne for example. Their flagship cuvée, Fleur de Passion, comes from old-vine Chardonnay of the best parcels in Cramant. This cuvée is vinified in oak barrels without malolactic fermentation, offering really complex, brioche rich expression of the region.
Wines tasted during the visit
NV Diebolt-Vallois Champagne Cuvée Prestige Blanc de Blancs, 93 Points
Made out of three Grand Crus, Cramat, Chouilly, Mesnil. Base for this was the difficult 2017 vintage. Turned out nicely nevertheless, very good quality BdB here for a base cuvee. Apricot, flowers, crips and defined.
2013 Diebolt-Vallois Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut Millésimé, 94 Points
We liked this a lot. From the crisp 2013 vintage. Very well defined, fresh with minerals, white flowers, ice bonbon, citrus. One for the cellar that will challenge the Salon Mesnil offerings that are 10x the price. Best after 2028. 94-95
2012 Diebolt-Vallois Champagne Grand Cru Fleur de Passion, 97 Points
During a Domaine visit. We were fortunate enough to being showcased the 2012, 2013 (not yet released) and the 2006. We loved this wine and it confirms to me that this is one of the great Blanc de Blancs of ll of Champagne. The 2012 was very complex and creamy with flowers, tons of fruit and minerals. You can see the quality of the top vintage combining richness and freshness.
2013 Diebolt-Vallois Champagne Grand Cru Fleur de Passion, 96+ Points
The 2013 was very classy too (not yet released) as it merges the crisp vintage with the generous Cramant terroir making it a wine for the long haul with amazing flowery notes, herbs, minerals, green apples. I will be looking out for it on the release next year for sure.
2006 Diebolt-Vallois Champagne Grand Cru Fleur de Passion, 96 Points
Then Nadia Vallois all of a sudden came with another bottle, blind. It turned out to be the 2006 which is fully ready to drink and evoked some wow’s from all of us as there was a great butter nose of shortbread intermixed with the citrus. A warmer vintage but it carries its richness well, so seductive.
Wines tasted on other occasions
2004 Diebolt-Vallois Champagne Grand Cru Fleur de Passion, 98 Points
From Magnum. Donated by a fellow Commander to start the evening while we waited for the AGM to start. Even better than my last showing. This had a really special nose with lemon peel, grapefruit but also very floral with chrysanthemum, white tulips, dark manuka honey. Wonderful palate, noticeable dosage yet fresh and lively and not lean, in the style of Taittinger’s CdC. A truly great showing.
2002 Diebolt-Vallois Champagne Grand Cru Fleur de Passion, 97 Points
During a blind tasting. Consistent to my last two showings. Spectacular nose with buttery elements, caramel, intermixed with lots of white flowers, citrus, biscuit. Really stunning, a very grand BdB.
Author: Christian Raubach, WSET III, FWS, WSG Champagne Master
December 2021