So, you like the Champagne in the style of the houses, but you discovered two issues. One, the base Cuvée of the large brands that line the supermarket shelves (Moet, Veue Cliquot, Lanson Feuillate) are neither good nor cheap and two, the Prestige Cuvées of the most famous brands like Dom Perignon Roederer Cristal while good have become really expensive with prices north of 200€. Is there a middle ground? Yes, Deutz, Pol Roger and Bollinger are three houses that you should look at in this case. They are based in the Montage de Reims, Champagne’s Pinot capital and thus create a more vinous, richer style of Champagne with lots of Pinot Noir in their blends. Of the three Deutz is the lest famous which is a good thing for smart consumers, because in consequence the brand premium on the bottle price is lower.
Champagne Deutz, established in 1838 by the Germans William Deutz and Pierre-Hubert Geldermann in Aÿ was acquired by Louis Roederer, in 1993. Louis Roederer is a quality producer and the acquisition revitalized the Deutz estate, with significant investments in infrastructure and winemaking under Fabrice Rosset’s leadership since 1996, elevating quality and production volumes significantly. As mentioned, Deutz is known for its Pinot Noir-dominant style, leveraging fruit from premier vineyards in Aÿ, Verzenay, and Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, but there is also a nice Blanc de Blanc Cuvée called Amour de Deutz.
My three favorite wines from Deutz are
- The prestige Cuvée William Deutz which has a distinctly more opulent style than Louis Roederer’s Cristal.
- And especially the two single vineyard Crus from sites right behind the winery, called Hommage William Deutz La Côte Glacière and Hommage à William Deutz Meurtet, showcasing the estate’s best craftsmanship. Both of these Cuvées are floral and elegant, generous palate, but not as rich as Bollinger or Winston Churchill for example. Price w
A recent visit to Deutz confirmed my view of the quality of the house. They also have vast cellars to stroll around.
1996 Deutz Champagne Cuvée William Deutz Rosé, 97 points
Shared during a tasting dinner. This was seriously one of the best rosés I ever had. Outstanding complexity, flowers, raspberry, brioche. Fresh and creamy.
2002 Deutz Champagne Cuvée William Deutz, 97 points
A wonderful champagne. Expressive and floral note, some nuts, stone fruit, touch of strawberry, really complex. Delicate perlage, wonderful mouth feel and long finish. Grand stuff.
2007 Deutz Champagne Cuvée William Deutz, 96 points
From Jero at Salon Ficofi. Spectacular showing, lots of brioche, generous, yet fresh. 96+
2009 Deutz Champagne Amour de Deutz, 95 points
Salon Focofi Paris walkabout and dinner, so no detailed tasting notes. From Jero. Great bottle as well, not far behind the stellar 2007 Cuvee William. Very fragrant nose, rich and forthcoming, elegant finish.
2010 Deutz Champagne Hommage à William Deutz Aÿ, 96 points
This was very popular at the table. Beautiful and rich BdN nose with rose petals, orchard fruit. Succulent palate, yet fresh with lemony elements kicking in, reminding us of the Krug Grand Cuvee. Great BdN and great QPR too.
2012 Deutz Champagne Hommage à William Deutz La Côte Glacière, 96 points
Expressive nose jumping from the glass. Flowers, baking spices, mirabelle, apricot. Pillowy palate, but fresh on the finish. Very popular tonight. This Cuvee has in my view the upper hand vs. the Meurtet which is even a touch richer in style.
2012 Deutz Champagne Hommage à William Deutz Meurtet, 95 points
During a structured blind tasting. Pinkish color. Lots of bruised apples here. Yeasty. Rich, Pinot style for sure, a bit foamy at the moment. Lovely peony notes as well. Give this time till 2025+ before opening it. 94-96
The Single Vineyards Hommage Cuvées come from plots right behind the cuverie
Author: Christian Raubach, WSET III, FWS, WSG Champagne Master
December 2022