During the Singapore lock down, still proud today about it, I was among the very first in the country that organized a Zoom virtual blind tasting for which I filled 12 wines into 1dl flacons and had it delivered to my friends in town. This way we are not just drinking and chatting on Zoom (which seems to be the latest craze these days but I find it quite pointless since no one has the same wine in the glass) but can actually discuss the wines we are drinking. After that tasting I got many phone calls from wine merchant who wanted to follow suit. I gave them the name of the flacon producer in the industrial zon ein Woodlands. He must have made a mint as zoom tastings became the norm due to the 2-year long back and forth on local dining restrictions, 2 people, 4 people, then back to 2, then 8, then back to 4 – a never ending nightmare of trepidation, not just by the government to be fair, but backed by the local population.
The Swiss wines were, as expected a mixed bag, with lots of the local grape varieties not really getting accolades from the group of astute local collectors that attended the tasting. However, there were highlights as well, e.g., Gantenbein Pinot (no surprise here), Cayus Syrah (also a well known bottle) and the Histoire d’enfer Paien (a newer kid on the block, at least for me).
Preparing the sampples, 0.075dl per flacon measured on a precision scale, Swiss precision 🙂
Flight 1 – whites
2017 Weingut Eichholz Sauvignon Blanc, 89 Points
Grassy nose jumps from the glass with some tropical fruits as well. The palate has lots of fruit and high acidity. Good but not very long.
2015 Histoire D’Enfer Païen Reserve, 93 Points
Rich and ripe nose. Unctuous palate but with good freshness. On the opulent side, 14.4% Alc visible but still in balance. Blind people were thinking white Hermitage blend (Roussanne/Marsanne). I agree, that is the style if you have to compare. This wine was quite popular despite its baroque proportions.
2018 Louis Bovard Medinette Dézaley, 87 Points
Clearly the weakest wine of the flight. The Swiss friends caught this easily blind, comments around “where is the Cheese Fondue” were made. The Singaporeans were perplexed. Where is the acidity, where is the alcohol, where are the aromas. A good white wine has to lead with at least one of these three. Alas, I can only repeat myself. Besides catering an mass apero I dont see much use of Chasselas. I know this is a very unpopular statement to make in Switzerland. I am not sure it is good or more bad news when I say that what is one of the better “Grand Cru Chasselase” out there and the wine was showing correctly with good typicity. I don’t know what it is that connoisseurs struggled with it, the low acidity, the watery mouth feel, the simple aromatics or all of the above?
2017 Donatsch Chardonnay Unique, 93 Points
A competent Chard, very Burgundian in style, some people mentioned Chassagne like. I agree, the oak is well measured and there is great lemon curd here. Strong acidity. Still very young. Can surely age.
2016 Chateau Constellation Humagne Blanche Sion, 88 Points
This wine was more easy going and much lighter than the Chardonnay next to it. The mouth feel was quite unctuous though. Some nuts some floral elements but the low acidity makes it lack a bit of energy. Decent.
My daughters gave me a helping hand in the preparation of the 84 samples
Goodie bags ready to be picket up
Flight 2 – reds
2016 Maison Gilliard Humagne Rouge Les Tonneliers Valais, Flawed
Unfortunately corked
2014 Gialdi Merlot Sassi Grossi Ticino, 89 Points
The wine is distinctively light for a Merlot and has lots of oak. Most people guessed Pinot and did not find it very appealing. I found it ok, reminded me of a Cru Burgeous from a cooler vintage. Decent food wine. 89-90
2014 Jean-René Germanier Syrah Cayas Réserve, 93 Points
A bit closed a first but then opened up with a typical Cote Rotie Syrah nose around smoke, pepper, bacon and dark fruit. The palate is medium bodied with bright acidity. A wine that convinced many including myself.
2014 Thomas Studach Pinot Noir, 90 Points
This wine was light in color but had a masculine mouth feel, still tannic and brooding. In my last showing I found it to be more convincing. What I like is the menthol, medicinal nose with red and black berry and some earthy notes.
2016 Donatsch Pinot Noir Unique, 93 Points
Very closed still, brooding. There is a lot of depth visible with dark fruit and earthy scents. Also has the fruit to carry the tannins. Like a young Morey. Better forget this in your cellar till 2025.
2012 Gantenbein Pinot Noir, 95 Points
The Grand Dame, the ground Zero of Swiss quality Wine making, easily took the win home in this tasting. People were really stunned by this wine. “Very Vosne Romanee was said several times. Lovely nose of wood spices intermixed with red fruit and a touch of musk. The palate is soft and succulent but with good structure. Great Pinot. The best showing of this vintage I had so far.
2013 Domaine de la Rochette (Jacques Tatasciore) Pinot Noir Vieilles Vignes, 93 Points
This wine was much more closed than the 2012 Gantenbein next to it. What I really liked was the exuberant cranberry and almost citrus fruit of this Pinot, A bit of raspberry and bubble gum as well, like a young Gamay. Good Mouthfeel, still tannic. Wait till 2025 with this as well. Hard to judge today. 92-94
Zoom tastings, which became the norm during the 2-year long Singapore Covid restrictions
Author: Christian Raubach, WSET III, FWS, WSG Champagne Master
May 2020