Lunch at Colgin

I was able to attend a 3-day private event in Napa, co-organized by a company together with the Wine Advocate. There were winery visits, dinners, lunches and a 2007 Napa Masterclass guided by Robert Parker and Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW. A really fantastic few days with great learning opportunity. Robert Parker was, as always, his down to earth, friendly self, spending lots of time talking with participants. I really adore him for not having become even a bit aloof after all the fame and accolades. Like his ratings or not, but that is classy!

You will notice from my scores that I have not given a 100 points to any wines despite having consumed the peak of Napa during this event. I find the Napa CabSav aromatically a touch below the 3 digit score. Also, some of them are too “sweet” for my palate . However, they are very consistent vintage in and vintage out, much more so than Bordeaux. I am of course nit picking here, but that is just my taste. So, feel free to mentally add 2-3 points per wine if you are a fan of riper/richer CabSav style.

The visit to Colgin turned out to be my favorite of the entire trip. First there was the splendid view from the new IX estate which serves also as a home. Second there was the friendly and bubbly Ann Colgin who told her self-made story which earned a lot of respect from everybody. Then there was Paul Robers, MS, the man who runs the show at Colgin. He really understands what good CabSav is, not just ripeness but also perfum, aha! He was able to articulate this very clearly and explained how he assures is occurs in every vintage. Finally, Ann’s husband, Joe Wender who showed us the personal cellar of him and Anne and we saw top wines from all over the world. This always gives me comfort. People like this know where the benchmark is and test their wines against it. The ratings below are a testimony of my esteem of this estate.

 

Tasting Notes

2005 Colgin Cabernet Sauvignon Tychson Hill Vineyard, 95 Points
During a tasting lunch at Colgin. Lots of blueberry in the nose, some oak and bakery, touch of smoke. Rich on the palate, very soft tannins, creamy mouthfeel. This smells and feels like a Pomerol/Merlot. Good, but aromatically not as complex as the other wines.

2006 Colgin IX Estate, 97 Points
During a tasting lunch at Colgin. This wine was a winner and a clear step up from the 2005 Tychson hill. Complex nose of dark fruit with cassis, earthy notes. The mouthfeel is great here, the right amount structure and acidity to carry the fruit. Very Napa in a good way. A very complete CabSav structurally and aromatically. Colgin has really impressed me during this Napa visit for making wines that are full bodied Napa yet are also aromatically interesting and do have the right amount of structure, not too sweet/flabby and also not to extracted/drying.

1995 Colgin Cabernet Sauvignon Herb Lamb, 97 Points
Subsequently tasted at a Masterclass. Evolved crimson red. Beautiful and lush nose of dark fruit, bakery, cake. Lots of savory umami on the rich palate. Alcohol is in check too, so the wine does not feel too sweet despite the fruit. Having tasted pretty much all high-end Napa reds in the past 3 months, for me Colgin makes the best Napa red as they keep their wines fresh and enough perfumey.

1997 Colgin Cabernet Sauvignon Herb Lamb, 97 Points
Subsequently tasted at a Masterclass. Evolved crimson red. Beautiful and lush nose of dark fruit, sweet spices. This has more blue fruit in the nose than the 1995. The palate is similar with lots of savory umami. Alcohol is in check too, so the wine does not feel too sweet despite the fruit. Having tasted pretty much all high-end Napa reds in the past 3 months, for me Colgin makes the best Napa red as they keep their wines fresh and enough perfumey.

2001 Colgin Cabernet Sauvignon Herb Lamb, 95 Points
Subsequently tasted at a Masterclass. Evolved crimson red. Rich and lush nose of dark fruit and cake. This had a slight oxidative note for me but my table neighbor said it was ok for him. Full bodied palate, good precision and enough freshness. Alcohol is in check too, so the wine does not feel too sweet despite the fruit. Having tasted pretty much all high-end Napa reds in the past 3 months, for me Colgin makes the best Napa red as they keep their wines fresh and enough perfumey.

2004 Colgin IX Estate, 96 Points
Subsequently tasted at a Masterclass. Dark ruby, purple core. . Nose of red and dark fruit. Fresh and medium-full bodied palate with grippy tannins. Still quite primary. The Number 9 vineyard impresses with lots of freshness as it is up in the hill and east facing. Having tasted pretty much all high-end Napa reds in the past 3 months, for me Colgin makes the best Napa red as they keep their wines fresh and enough perfumey.

2010 Colgin IX Estate, 100 Points
Subsequently tasted at a Masterclass. Medium-dark purple. Wow, what a nose. Aromas of dark fruit, viplets, elderflower, black tea. This is highly aromatic and floral, Amazing. Excellent palate with great precision, good volume and freshness. A clear 100 CabSav blend wine for me front-to-back and the fist time I am handing out 100 points to a Napa wine. The Number 9 vineyard impresses with lots of freshness as it is up in the hill and east facing. Having tasted pretty much all high-end Napa reds in the past 3 months, for me Colgin makes the best Napa red as they keep their wines fresh and enough perfumey.

View from the IX Estate

Author: Christian Raubach, WSET III, FWS, WSG Champagne Master
November 2016