There are “Geek Wines” and there are “New Frontier Wines“. The difference is that geek wines, for example Assyrtiko from Greece or Teroldego from Trentino Alto-Adide are more like a blind tasting party trick. Fun to try, but nothing that is gaining a lot of traction in the near future. English Sparkling wine has left the geek corner and is now establishing itself as a New Frontier Wine, wines that are getting attention more broadly. There is a lot of momentum for many good reasons:
- The Soils: The chalky soils in southern England are part of the Paris Basin. It extends from Champagne to southern England and provides a geological foundation for both regions. These soils, rich in calcium carbonate, are ideal for cultivating high-quality Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier, the same grape varieties used in Champagne production.
- Global warming: Historically, the cooler climate in the UK posed challenges for ripening grapes, but climate change has transformed this limitation into an advantage, allowing for consistent ripening and vibrant acidity in the grapes—a hallmark of top-tier sparkling wines.
- Inbound Investments: The potential of British sparkling wine has not gone unnoticed by Champagne houses. Notable examples include Taittinger, which launched its Domaine Evremond in Kent, and Pommery producing Hattingley Valley sparkling wines. These investments underscore the growing recognition of England’s suitability for producing traditional method sparkling wines and it has also brought Champagne talent and savoir faire to England.
- Local Demand: As a trading nation, England has been a hub for fine wine for centuries, be it Bordeaux, Burgundy, Port or Champagne and thus has a sophisticated consumer base, be it private collectors or high street restaurants. I cannot overstate this point. Napa Valley CabSav is first and foremost sought after and expensive because there are a lot of rich people in California who want to have that in their cellar and can shell out top dollar for it. On the contrary, South Africa cannot rely on that tail wind. Leading the charge among British producers are estates like Nyetimber (the most established name), Ridgeview, Coates & Seely, Chapel Down, and Gusbourne, whose wines have garnered critical acclaim and prestigious awards.
I was invited by Philipp Schwander MW to visit Coates & Seely with a special attention to their newly acquired vineyard on the isle of wight. Nicolas Coates and Christian Seely, the founders of Coates & Seely, have strong professional backgrounds that influenced their entry into the sparkling wine scene. Nicolas Coates was a successful City financier, while Christian Seely is the managing director of AXA Millésimes, which owns a portfolio of prestigious wineries worldwide, including Chateau Pichon Baron, Suduiraut, Domaine l’Arlot, Quinta do Noval, Disznókö. The two met decades ago and reunited in 2008 with a shared vision: to produce world-class English sparkling wine leveraging Hampshire’s chalky soils, which, as mentioned, mirror Champagne’s terroir. Their first vineyard, located on Wooldings Farm near Whitchurch, was initially modest in size but has since expanded significantly, focusing on Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier, the classic Champagne varieties. While Christian Seely brought access to viticulture and winemaking know-how through his vast network in France, Nicolas was on the ground in England, scouting vineyard sites. The latter turned out more difficult as they thought and it took them considerable screening and negotiating to get their hands on the most suitable land. Very recently they found a new gem on the Isle of Wight. A south facing amphitheater protected from the coastal winds with chalky soils (see photo above).
Nicolas Coates explained to us the house philosophy when we visited their winery in Whitchurch, in Hampshire. “England does not need another supermarket-level sparkling wine, there is enough of that” he mentioned. I am fully with him. Guzzling mass-produced aperitif wines, be it Prosecco, Pinot Grigio or Fendant is of no gastronomic value. Nicolas mentioned that he has a solid collection of Champagne in his home and knows where the benchmark is. That is what he wants to measure himself against. The tasting we had over dinner confirmed to me that they are on right track. Go, and find out yourself.
Tasting Notes
NV Coates & Seely Brut Réserve, 92 points
Lovely nose with citrus, flowers and discrete yeasty elements. Very composed palate, precise, fresh, but not thin. I particularly like the fine perlage here, especially for an NV. Well-judged dosage leaving a fresh finish. This is really hard to differentiate blind from a quality Champagne as it is very similar in style.
NV Coates & Seely Brut Réserve Late Disgorged, 91 points
From Magnum. Light-bodied and elegant, opens with a refined citrussy profile, balanced by the smooth texture of the malolactic fermentation. With a dosage of 4g/L and a blend of 60% Pinot Noir, it maintains a delicate yet lively character, offering finesse and freshness in equal measure.
2016 Coates & Seely La Perfide Blanc de Blancs, 92 points
Wow, gutsy move, a zero-dosage Blanc de Blancs, crafted not as an intended new category but because its tasting profile demanded no added sweetness, Christian Seely mentioned during the tasting. The aromas are beautifully defined, with green apple and lemon peel bringing bright freshness. Energetic without ever feeling thin or aggressive, it’s a true success in its unembellished form. 92+
2014 Coates & Seely La Perfide Blanc de Noirs, 93 points
This 100% Pinot Noir Blanc de Noirs offers a complex bouquet, revealing aromas of bruised apples, cinnamon spice, cranberries, and citrus. The touch of bruised apple oxidation is well managed, lending depth without compromising the wine’s freshness and vibrancy. It remains lively on the palate, showing excellent structure and elegance.
2014 Coates & Seely La Perfide Rosé, 90 points
From Magnum, this 100% Pinot Noir based rosé displays a remarkable racy quality, bringing a welcome crispness uncommon in NV rosé. Notes of strawberry mingle with subtle citrus accents, achieving a refreshing balance without excessive sweetness. Its linear, vibrant profile makes it a standout among rosés, a category I am usually not a fan of.
A Glass of Britannia
A final thought. During our visit Nicolas mentioned that other established sparkling wine regions have their own name for their category, such as Cava, Prosecco, Franciacorta and that it may be wise to give the British sparkling wines also a name in the future. He suggested “Britannia” could be suitable. Cool name indeed. Let’s drink to that.
Author: Christian Raubach, WSET III, FWS, WSG Champagne Master.
October 2024
