This Masterclass under the title The “Bad Boy” is Back – Chateau Valandraud was held druing the Wine Advocate “A matter of taste” even in Singapore. Having recently tasted all vintages of Valandraud from 1993-2008, it was great to see the more recent ones of this producer. Back then I walked away from this ground zero Garagiste tasting with a very positive note. The wines were balanced and not syrupy and also in the off-years very pleasant and well made. I think Chateau Valandraud is really one of the top St.Emilions. I did not find them over-extracted like Pavie, Troplong-Mondot for example. This tasting confirmed it for the younger vintages as well. The wines are modern, pleasant but have aromatic depth. You don’t need a degree in oenology to understand them, yet they also please a Bordeaux aficionado palate. The people in the Masterclass loved the wines. Furthermore, it was also great to finally meet the innovator himself, Jean-Luc Thunevin, who was witty and cheerful that day.
Tasting Notes
2009 Château Valandraud, 95 Points
Overtly sexy nose with dark fruit, licorice, candy, spice. There is enough bitter extract in the wine to buffer the ripe fruit. No over ripeness, not heat at all, also no overbearing roasty/toasty notes (one of the weaknesses of 2009) in this wine. Drink this gem while you wait for the even better 2010 to come around.
2010 Château Valandraud, 96 Points
Wow, serious stuff. Right off the bat you can see the amazing depth of 2010, the best vintage in Europe of our time. Compressed dark fruit, brooding, some mint as well as spices, young and closed but potential visible. Lots of freshness and structure. No doubt, this will be a benchmark for this Chateau. In my view better than the strong 09, for sure better than 15, and with 16 being the only challenger. Don’ touch before 2025.
2011 Château Valandraud, 93 Points
A difficult stand in this line up after the stellar 2009 and 2010. Much lighter wine, earlier drinking window, soft, but good balance and pleasant. A decent effort. Restaurant vintage.
2012 Château Valandraud, 94 Points
A big step up after the 2011. This wine is dense and deep, lots of stuffing, lots of aroma, gingerbread, plum, flowers. The tannins are demanding though as well. Not an early drinker this one but should be great once mature. A very good 2012. I would not touch this before 2025 either.
2013 Château Valandraud, 90 Points
Here we go, welcome 2013 in the line up, and yes, as always the weakest wine. 2013 is the worst Bordeaux vintage of our time (since I don’t assume anyone is considering stocking up on 91, 92). Let me be clear to all Bordeaux novices: Any 2013 in your cellar is a mistake, any and while we’re at it, stay away from 2011 too. The Bordeaux marketing machine and your merchant will tell you otherwise, since there is a lot of unsold stock. The good news for this wine is that the Valandraud team did not try to make this wine into something it can’t be. So the wine is a nice, lighter version of Valandraud, although the tannins cannot fully hide the rusticity of the 2013 vintage.
2014 Château Valandraud, 93 Points
This is a soft and caressing version of Valandraud. Not as deep as the best vintages but very nice to drink. I would call this a restaurant vintage. Good enough for most palates and you don’t have to wait till doomsday. 93+
2015 Château Valandraud, 94 Points
Hmm, don’t know what to make of this wine. Jean-Luc Thunevin said it was his favorite in the line up. I found it too soft, not enough structure for the ripe fruit it has, more like a riper version of 2014 but no where near the aromatic depth of 2010 and 2016.
2016 Château Valandraud, 96 Points
Jean-Marc Quarin was the first one who said loud and clear that 2016 is the best Bordeaux vintage of our modern time. A new version of the aromatic, deep 2010 but 1-1.5% less alcohol. This sample confirms it. Lots of cool blue fruit, spices, flowers. Great structure to carry the fruit. A great wine in the making but one that I would not touch till 2030. 96+
Author: Christian Raubach, WSET III, FWS, WSG Champagne Master
October 2017