Chateau Palmer 1955-2020

Château Palmer, a Third Growth in Margaux, has long been regarded as one of Bordeaux’s most revered wines after the First Growths and is the undisputed number two in the Margaux appellation. Founded in 1814 by British General Charles Palmer, it gained prominence under the Pereire banking family in the mid-19th century. What sets Palmer apart is its high proportion of Merlot (47%) and significant use of Petit Verdot (6%), an unusual blend for the Médoc that gives the wine its signature rich texture, dark fruit aromatics, and exotic spice notes. Despite its Third Growth classification, Palmer commands prices at the upper end of the Super Second level, reflecting its quality and collectible status.

Leading critics like Neal Martin, Antonio Galloni, and William Kelley praise its silky tannins, opulence, and age-worthiness, often comparing it favorably to top Margaux peers, including Château Margaux itself. Under the stewardship of Thomas Duroux, Palmer has converted to biodynamic practices in 2014 and produces much lower yields (25-30 hl/ha) with this, so about half of its peers. The lower yield is partly due to the absence of synthetic chemicals, which means the vines rely on natural resistance, and Palmer’s focus on meticulous vineyard management, including rigorous pruning and sorting. This results in greater concentration and purity of fruit, but also contributes to Palmer’s higher price, as fewer bottles are produced relative to demand.

All wines were tasted blind in flights of four at the private Carnozet of a Swiss collector. The French wine journalist Jean-Marc Quarin guided us through the tastings. I liked the consistently perfumy nose and aromatic profile of Palmer, which was classic Medoc with lots of forest floor and dark fruit. This combined with the soft texture makes it very attractive. The younger vintages were most liked by the tasting group, though I found some of them to be a little too ripe (2015, 2018, 2020).

Edgar giving an overview of the Chateau and appellation

 

Tasting Notes

 

1990 Château Palmer, 94 Points
Cloudy garnet with an amber rim. Intense nose jumping from the glass with tertiary notes of leather, coffee, and game, with a touch of Brett adding complexity rather than dominating. The palate is fresh and structured, a little light and advanced for the vintage, but then again it is 35 years old and has a lot of Merlot in it. I liked it much more than the group. 94+

1989 Château Palmer, 94 Points
Medium garnet with an amber hue. More restrained on the nose than the 1990 next to it, with evolved notes of forest floor, leather, and a touch of farmyard. Medium-bodied, well-balanced, and harmonious, quite understated. A fine, food-friendly claret.

1955 Château Palmer, Flawed
Medium garnet. Unusual nose—vegetal and musty, reminiscent of old asparagus and overripe vegetables. Gone.

1996 Château Palmer, 91 Points
Medium-light garnet. Classic but leaner nose of pine needles and damp earth. Lighter on the palate, reflecting a cooler vintage with less of Palmer’s characteristic Merlot generosity. A bit short but still elegant.

Flight 2

1999 Château Palmer, 94 Points
Medium-light garnet. Discreet nose, but with attractive dark fruit, forest floor, and a touch of spice. Surprisingly light on the palate, showing cooler vintage characteristics, a touch diluted but aromatically engaging. A success for the vintage.

1995 Château Palmer, 91 Points
Medium garnet. A darker, earthier expression with black fruit, pine, and roasted coffee. Unfortunately, the structure falls short, with drying tannins leaving an astringent finish.

2000 Château Palmer, 93 Points
Medium garnet. A more aromatic and lifted nose than the 1999 – dark fruit, toast, and a touch of caramel. The palate is well-defined, showing classic Médoc forest floor and red fruit, though the finish again turns slightly drying. Participants were surprised when they saw this was from the legendary 2000 vintage.

1998 Château Palmer, 93 Points
Medium garnet. Tertiary nose of earth, leather, and black fruit, though not as expressive as its flight companions. Soft and pleasant, though a little thin on the mid-palate.

 

Flight 3

2005 Château Palmer, 96 Points
Medium-plus garnet. Refined nose of dark fruit, sweet spice, and a touch of blueberry. A generous and complete palate, with good fruit and well-matched to structure. One of the stars of the flight. 96+

2008 Château Palmer, Flawed
Medium-plus garnet. Nose marked by volatile acidity—nail polish and rum pot. Feels overripe, oxidative notes creeping in after a while. Not undrinkable but lacking Médoc typicity. NR

2009 Château Palmer, 96 Points
Medium-dark garnet. Discreet at first but opens to reveal plush dark fruit, coffee, and well-integrated oak. Very good balance between structure and richness, a complete and polished wine.

2010 Château Palmer, 93 Points
Dark garnet. Muted nose. The palate is powerful but veers toward overripe fruit and a drying finish, suggesting later picking. Generous but a touch overdone.

Flight 4

2002 Château Palmer, 94 Points
Dark garnet. Subtle but classic nose of pine and blackberry. Soft, well-integrated tannins, notes of coffee, and a slightly diluted mid-palate. A refined but gentle wine.

2011 Château Palmer, 90 Points
Very deep garnet, slightly cloudy. The palate is extracted, rustic, and drying, with earthy tones and an assertive coffee note. Less pleasure due to the firm, drying finish.

2012 Château Palmer, 92 Points
Dark garnet, ruby hue. A more modern expression—ripe, verging on cooked black cherries, with soft tannins giving a supple mouthfeel. Has a distinctly Napa character.

2015 Château Palmer, 93 Points
Medium-dark garnet. Ripe and rich nose—black fruit, rum pot, and a hint of dried fruit. Not oxidative, but certainly on the opulent side. Soft tannins and a drying finish reinforce its warm-vintage character.

 

Flight 5

2020 Château Palmer, 94 Points
Medium ruby. Ripe, dark cherry nose, leaning toward a Californian profile. Precise palate, soft tannins, with plum, prune, and caramel emerging on the finish. Well-made but pushing the ripeness limit.

2019 Château Palmer, 95 Points
Medium-light garnet. Muted at first but opens to dark cherry, raspberry, and a delicate balance of ripeness and structure. A velvety finish adds elegance. Classically Médoc in shape. THis and the 2016 were my favoriites of the younger vintages. 95–96

2016 Château Palmer, 96 Points
Medium ruby. More restrained nose. The palate shows forest floor, good structure, and density, but maintains balance. Less overt ripeness than some recent vintages, making for a more classic and refined expression. This and the 2019 were my favorites of the younger vintages.

2018 Château Palmer, 95 Points
Expressive nose bursting from the glass—ripe fruit with earthy depth. A complete wine with ample structure to match its ripeness. Full throttle. Its aging path will determine whether it will remain balanced or tip into excess. Hard to judge now, but impressively showy. 94–96?

Author: Christian Raubach, WSET III, FWS, WSG Champagne Master
February 2025