I had the chance to meet Alexandre Chartogne twice in the last two months. In November when “Curated” hosted a Masterclass in Meursault during the Trois Glorioses and in December at his Domaine in Merfy, just north of Reims. Chartogne-Taillet’s Les Barres has long been my favorite Meunier based Champagne, on par or may be even ahead of Jerome Prevost depending on the vintage. The Domaine with an annual production of 90’000 bottles has gained a reputation for producing terroir-driven Champagnes that reflect the unique soils and microclimates of the region. Alexandre is also part of the generation of growers who have worked or received guidance from Anselme Selosse (Pévost, Bérêche, Léclapart, Cedric Bouchard, Laherte are other growers in this group). Alexandre mentioned that his mother had the connection to Selosse and organized the stage.
The common theme of these apprentices is the adoption of the signature practices of Selosse:
- Focus on Terroir (making lieu-dit Champagnes instead of pan-regional, pan-variety blends)
- Low intervention, indigenous yeast fermentation
- Use of oak barrels for fermentation and aging to a desired level of oxidation
- Organic or biodynamic viticulture with lower yields
Alexandre follows all of the above and he explained how he sees this actually as a continuation what has been done in the past by the Benedictine Monks who have produced still wine parcel-by-parcel just like in Burgundy.
- Leiu-dit Champagne: Merfy has a chalky bed rock with different top soils that change as you move up the slope with limestone, sand, tuff, clay on top in different levels of depth. His cuvées reflect that, each of them drawing from slightly different terroir around Merfy. The lieu dit Les Barres where the Meunier cuvée comes from has sandy soil and un-grafted root stocks. A champagne that everyone should try to see what Meunier can do. He also has a few plots in Avize where he makes his Hors series Blanc de Blancs.
- Low Intervention: Chartogne-Taillet uses indigenous yeast to ferment its wines. Large houses of course often do, even need to do, the opposite given their large volumes of white wine produced in big steel tanks. If you want to know what I mean, have a look at the new, gigantic “Cuverie site Mont Aigu” of Moet & Chandon.
- Barrel Fermentation and Aging: The oak influence is visible in the Chartogne-Taillets cuvées adding a lovely touch of toast and spices to the wines. Alexandre walked us through is meticulous barrel cellar where his still wines mature. His Blanc de Blancs show various degree of light oxidation and saltiness.
- Biodynamic or Organic Viticulture with lower yields: Most top growers have adopted these practices to improve vineyard health and express the unique characteristics of their sites. Alexandre mentioned that his yields are about half of what CIVC would allow, around 50hl/ha and mentioned that with Chardonnay good quality can still be produced slightly above 50hl but much harder with Pinot. He discussed also ph and optimal ripeness with a Burgundy vigneron who was present at the master class. In Champagne, due to the cooler weather, when his grapes are ripe they have 2.95-3.2 ph and 11.5% Alc level, while in Burgundy it is 3.5 and 13-13.5% Alc. Alexandre also mentioned that the change from fully rip to rot affected happens very quickly in Champagne and decisions need to be made quickly during harvest.
Tasting Notes
NV Chartogne-Taillet Champagne Cuvée Sainte Anne (Blend), 92 Points
The entry-level cuvée from Chartogne-Taillet, this is a blend that exudes charm and accessibility. Aromatic and spicy on the nose, it offers a delicate bouquet of orchard fruit, citrus zest, and subtle brioche tones. On the palate, it is lighter and more open-knit than the more site-specific wines in the range, with a rounded texture, gentle mousse, and a pleasant, refreshing finish. A solid introduction to the house style.
2017 Chartogne-Taillet Champagne Chemin de Reims (BdB), 93 Points
A Blanc de Blancs from Chardonnay grown on Thanetian sands rich in iron, with a southeast exposure. This 2017 is a testament to skillful viticulture in a challenging vintage. The nose is fresh and expressive, with green apple, red apple, and subtle spice nuances. Frothy and light on the palate, it remains lively and invigorating, with a fresh, saline finish that emphasizes its mineral backbone. A serious Champagne for the difficult vintage.
2018 Chartogne-Taillet Champagne Chemin de Reims (BdB), 94 Points
Blanc de Blancs from Thanetian sands. This vintage shows greater richness and generosity than the 2017, with a bouquet of spicy red apple, green apple, and well-integrated oak. The palate is ample and structured, with a layered texture and a more persistent finish. Still displaying youthful frothiness, it benefits from decanting, which unveils its depth and complexity. From a parcel on pure chalk soils.
2018 Chartogne-Taillet Champagne Blanc de Blancs Heurtebise (BdB), 94 Points
A Blanc de Blancs from Chardonnay grown on Thanetian sands mixed with clay on sandstone, facing south. This is a leaner, more precise expression compared to the Chemin de Reims, with aromas of spicy yellow apple, green apple, and delicate oak spice. The palate is finely chiseled, with a taut texture, vibrant acidity, and a lingering finish that emphasizes its mineral and floral character. A Champagne of notable finesse.
2018 Chartogne-Taillet Champagne Les Barres (BdN Meunier), 95-96 Points
This 100% Meunier Champagne comes from franc de pied vines on Thanetian limestone sands and Campanian chalk. It delivers an exceptional nose of oak spice, red apple, and cinnamon, leading into a palate that is caressing yet complex. The texture is luxurious but not heavy, with bright acidity and a long, layered finish. This cuvée consistently showcases the potential of Meunier when given the same meticulous attention as Chardonnay or Pinot Noir.
2018 Chartogne-Taillet Champagne Extra Brut Les Couarres (blend), 95 Points
A blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from Thanetian and Ypresian limestone sands with clay, overlying deeper Tufa. The south-facing parcel yields a wine with a precise and mineral-driven profile. Aromas of green apple, citrus peel, and subtle herbs lead into a chalky, textured palate. The balance of freshness and depth makes this a standout wine with an incisive, lingering finish.
2019 Chartogne-Taillet Champagne Hors Serie (BdB, cork aged), 94 Points
Blanc de Blancs from the Côte des Blancs, crafted from Chardonnay grown on chalky soils of Avize Aged under cork, this shows a richer, more oxidative profile, with notes of yuzu lemon, ripe apple, and a subtle saline tang. The texture is generous yet refined, with a long, layered finish that recalls the distinctive Selosse style while remaining firmly Chartogne-Taillet.
2019 Chartogne-Taillet Champagne Hors Serie (BdB, crown cap aged), 94 Points
The same Blanc de Blancs, aged with a crown cap, presents a sharper, fresher profile, with aromas of green apple, fresh herbs, and a faint chalky edge. The palate feels more youthful and taut, with pronounced acidity and a more linear structure. A fascinating study in the impact of closure on Champagne’s evolution.
Author: Christian Raubach, WSET III, FWS, Champagne Master
November/December 2024
Alexander explaining his parcels and terroirs (can be found on his interactive website)
