I attended an insightful tasting lunch organized by Champagne ambassador and collector Dominik Berschart who is known for his events around fine bubbles under the brand Greenhat Events. To our delight Maxime Watelet, International Sales Director, flew in as well and co-led through the tasting. The event was held at the Restaurant Lindenhofkeller – first time there, a revelation, fantastic food. The interesting thing about this NV vertical was that Charles Heidsieck early on mentioned the Mise en Cave (MIC) on the back label, which allowed collectors to trace which bottle came from which batch. This was a good call that more and more estates have copied. It also allowed us to taste NV Champagne all the way back to the 80ies.
Tasting through a vertical of Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve NV really showed just how consistent the house is. From the bright, citrusy 2019 and 2018 to the richer, more layered 2015 and stunning 2012, each vintage stayed true to the house style of ripe fruit balanced by a signature touch of “sweet bitterness.” Even the older bottles from the 1980s and 1970s were remarkably fresh, offering beautiful notes of dried fruits, honey, spice and orange rind. Throughout the lineup, the generous use of reserve wines and the careful craftsmanship were obvious, confirming why Charles Heidsieck is respected for its non-vintage Champagne.
Champagne Charles Heidsieck
When Charles-Camille Heidsieck founded Charles Heidsieck in 1851, he had no idea he’d become one of Champagne’s great characters – and the inspiration for “Champagne Charlie.” A natural showman, Charles set off to conquer the United States in the mid-19th century, charming Americans into loving Champagne almost as much as he did. Unfortunately, a a later stage of this “grand tour” timing wasn’t on his side: the Civil War broke out, payments dried up, and poor Charles ended up imprisoned on suspicion of spying. He returned to France nearly broke, but, in true Champagne Charlie fashion, he bounced back, regained his fortune, and became a local legend – with a few great stories (and a few scars) to show for it.
Fast forward to the 20th century, the house was sold to Rémy Martin in the 1980s. While Charles Heidsieck kept its reputation for quality, investment was… let’s say, not a priority. The wines quietly kept their elegance, but the brand lost a bit of its global shine. That changed when the house was sold again in 2011 to the EPI group, a family-owned luxury company. Since then, there’s been a real revival. New ownership brought fresh energy, a strong commitment to quality, and the appointment of Cyril Brun as chef de cave – an important move. Cyril modernized the style without losing the signature generosity Charles Heidsieck is known for.
Fun Fact: In 1995, Charles Heidsieck’s chef de cave famously “forgot” to listen to management when told to make only a small batch of their prestige cuvée, Blanc des Millénaires. He secretly made much more – an act of rebellion that turned out to be a blessing. The 1995 Blanc des Millénaires is now considered one of Champagne’s great wines, beloved by collectors and critics alike. Sometimes, ignoring orders really is the right call! I thus happily brought a bottle of this Cuvée as an encore wine at the end of the tasting and it showed its mettle.
Today, Charles Heidsieck stands out for its rich, textured, and vinous style. High proportions of reserve wines, long aging, and a deliberate, structured approach make the Brut Réserve one of the most complex non-vintages out there. William Kelley praises the wines for their “layered, creamy profiles” and ability to age remarkably well, while Richard Juhlin consistently rates Charles Heidsieck among the top houses for non-vintage expressions. This is a house where even the so-called “basic” cuvée can rival vintage champagnes from larger names.
Middle: Charles Watelet, International Sales Director, who co-led through the tasting. Left: a rhubarb based dessert which goes down among my all time favorite desserts
Tasting Notes
Flight 1 – Base 2017 – 2019
2019 Charles Heidsieck Champagne Brut Réserve 93 Points
NV Base 2019 NV, PN/CH/MN 40/40/20, 51% reserve wines, dosage 9g. Discreet citrus and yellow fruit. Fine-boned and precise.
2018 Charles Heidsieck Champagne Brut Réserve 92 Points
NV Base 2018. PN/CH/MN 40/25/35, 50% reserve wine, dosage 9g. Cooler impression than 2019, surprising given the warm 2018 year. Citrus, slight bruised apple. Very pure and racy.
2017 Charles Heidsieck Champagne Brut Réserve 93 Points
NV base 2017, PN/CH/MN 40/40/20, 51% reserve wines, 9g dosage. Richer, more textured than the 2019 and 2018 next to it. Bruised apple notes as well. Lovely 200th anniversary edition bottle. “Liberal spirit” theme in memory of Charles Heidsieck who apparently was a free spirit as well. Excellent NV for the challenging 2017 vintage.
Flight 2 – Base 2013 – 2016
2016 Charles Heidsieck Champagne Brut Réserve 92 Points
NV base 2016, PN/CH/MN 41/18/41, 46% reserve wines, 10g dosage. An unusually high amount of Meuner in the blend. Aromas of yellow apple, nuts, sweet spices and light oxidative hints are pointing towards Meunier. Complex and airy on the palate.
2015 Charles Heidsieck Champagne Brut Réserve 93 Points
NV base 2015, PN/CH/MN 41/18/41, 46% reserve wine, 10g dosage. Rich and generous as the 2015 vintage suggests, with orchard fruits, bruised apples, and a soft patina of maturity. A real charmer, the richest so far in this line-up.
2014 Charles Heidsieck Champagne Brut Réserve 90 Points
NV base 2014, PN/CH/MN 39/18/43, 39% reserve wine, 11g dosage. Bright lemon zest and a more reserved personality, the cooler 2014 year in display. Slight bruised apple notes on the finish. Needs time in glass.
2013 Charles Heidsieck Champagne Brut Réserve 91 Points
NV base 2013, PN/CH/MN 48/15/37, 38% reserve wine, 11g dosage. 2013 is the last cool vintage was mentioned by Maxime Watelet International Sales Director who led through the tasting. The cool vintage character shows in the laser-like acidity. However, there is also a lot of compact and dense fruit here, more so than in the 2014. Light vegetal notes on the finish. 91-92
Right: A Magnum from the 80ies. Left: the 200 years anniversary bottle
Flight 3 – Base 2008 – 2012
2012 Charles Heidsieck Champagne Brut Réserve 94 Points
NV base 2012, PN/CH/MN, 45/17/38, 38% reserve wine, 11g dosage. The first real “wow” nose, a cut above all other in this decade, showing again the mettle of the outstanding 2012 vintage. Intense aromas of brioche and citrus, excellent length and resonance. There is real plentitude here combined with freshness and length.
2010 Charles Heidsieck Champagne Brut Réserve 92 Points
NV base 2010. We compared the DG17 vs DG18, there was a sublte difference. The DG17 was lighter with citrus and brioche with tertiary nuances, the DG18 a little richer and creamier with vibrant fruit and freshness as well. Splitting hairs here.
2008 Charles Heidsieck Champagne Brut Réserve 90 Points
NV base 2008, PN/CH/MN, 38/26/36, 36% reserve wine, 11g dosage. True to the vintage, the 2008 has a leaner palate, slightly green aromatic profile and chiseled acidity, but it lacks the generosity of the more complete 2012 next to it.
Flight 4 – Base 1989 – 2000
2000 Charles Heidsieck Champagne Brut Réserve, NR
NV base 2000 31% reserve wine, PN/CH/MN, 42/22/36, 10 dosage. Dominated by intense champignon notes on the nose. Creamy and fresh palate but aromatics distract. I will abstain from a rating here. NR
1999 Charles Heidsieck Champagne Brut Réserve 93 Points
NV base 1999, PN/CH/MN, 41/40/19, 30% reserve wines, 10g dosage. Balanced mix of tertiary aromas with champignon and sweet spices, moss and gentle oak. Very complex and satisfying.
1994 Charles Heidsieck Champagne Brut Réserve 88 Points
NV base 1994, PN/CH/MN, 42/19/39, 27% reserve wines 12g dosage (the highest in this line up). Damp forest floor and musty notes dominate. Very tertiary. This bottle lacked the purity of the others. May be not the best bottle.
1989 Charles Heidsieck Champagne Brut Réserve 96 Points
NV base 1989, PN/CH/MN, 40/26/34, 23% reserve wines, 10g dosage. Wow, stunning freshness here. Attractive aromas of ice bonbon, juniper, mandarin, and grapefruit. Bright and energetic. Excellent mouth feel and complexity. My WOTN in this tasting.
Brut Reserve NV Bottles from the 70ies and 80ies
Flight 5 – Bottles made in the 70ies and 80ies
There were no exact mise en cave dates on these bottles but from the label it must have been releases from the 70ies and 80ies.
80ies Charles Heidsieck Champagne Brut Réserve 95 Points
The first one was the aperitif Magnum which was in fantastic shape. Amber hue color. Expressive nsoe with nuts, quince, bruised apple, orange marmelade. Remarkable freshness, no undue oxidation. Top drawer, a great start into the tasting and a testament of the ageability of Charles Heidsieck’s brut reserve.
80ies Charles Heidsieck Champagne Brut Réserve 95 Points
Second bottle also very strong. Orange hue color. Orange rind, sandalwood, honey, dried fruits, roasted pineapple. Very long. Top class.
80ies Charles Heidsieck Champagne Brut Réserve Flawed
The third bottle had a light cork unfortunately, the palate was in good shape though. NR
1985 Charles Heidsieck Champagne Brut Réserve 94 Points
The fourth bottle showed also well. Orange confit, roasted pineapple, shortbread. Very aromatic and fresh.
1975 Charles Heidsieck Champagne Brut Réserve 95 Points
This bottle with a white label was probably from the the mid 70ies according to the donator. I logged it here under 1975 for reference.
TN: Orange hue color. Apple cider, raisin, apricot, coffee notes as well, marmelade. Rich and complex. This is carrying its 5 decades really well. A testimony to the quality of this wine.
Flight 6 – Encore Wines
1995 Charles Heidsieck Champagne Blanc des Millénaires 96 Points
I brought this as an encore wine. Always love the 1995 rendition of the Blanc de Millenaire. It now drinks in its prime with a lovely balance of fresh citrus and tertiary notes around orange rind, sandal wood and sweet baking spices.
Author: Christian Raubach, WSET III, FWS, WSG Champagne Master
April 2025