Champagne David Léclapart is a highly regarded grower-producer located in Trépail, a Premier Cru in the Montagne de Reims. Noteworthy fact, Trépail and and Villers-Marmery are two villages that are Chardonnay dominated and not Pinot like all the neighbors in the Montagne de Reims. The terroirs are of cooler nature, due to their north-east exposure. With 3 Ha and ca. 20’000 bottle total production, David Léclapart is really a niche producer, even by Grower Champagne standards. His wine are therefore not so easy to find. Luckily, in Switzerland, he is represented by Le Passeur du Vin, a Geneva based wine shop (with a subsidiary in Zurich) that has made itself a name for featuring bio- and niche names and off the beaten track wine regions. It is actually my go to merchant if I am in the mood to try something from left field. Go check them out, you will come home with a few bottles that you didn’t even know existed. Fun stuff.
Now, David Léeclapart took over the domaine in 1996 after the untimely demise of his father and became an early adopter of biodynamics in Champagne, having received certification already in 2001. In Champagne’s cooler and wetter climate (especially 20 years ago) it really needs dedication and conviction. In 2001 Léclapart was invited to join the the prestigious group of “Return to Terroir” group, also known as “Renaissance des Appellations“, founded by Nicolas Joly. This association comprises biodynamic winegrowers dedicated to ensuring that wines authentically express their appellations through natural and sustainable practices.
David is an calm, warm-hearted, modest person, a true vigneron de France. He took the time to walk through his small barrel cellar to have us sample his 2024 vins clair, which is always an educative process. His chardonnay sample was nicely flinty, David mentioned it is the silex terroir that creates that aroma profile every year. Unfortunately 2024 was a very small crop for him as he lost a large part to mildew, a fate suffered across Champagne and Burgundy. He will only have 5000 bottles, all blended together under the Aphrodisiac cuvée.
Léclapart’s philosophy emphasizes expressing the vineyard over manipulation in the cellar. The wines are typically single-vintage, single-vineyard expressions, with no blending or reserve wines, always Millesimé, but since he does not have the space to store the barrels and bottles of each vintage in separate cellars (required by the CIVC) he cannot put Millesimé on the front label, instead he puts, for example LV19 on the back label, representing a 2019 vintage bottling. Fermentation occurs with native yeasts, aging takes place in used oak barrels or enameled steel (rather than stainless steel), and no dosage is added, resulting in intensely dry wines. Sulfur use is minimal, further showcasing the purity of the terroir. Known for their precision, minerality, and salinity, Léclapart’s Champagnes are complex and often demand patience to fully appreciate. They have a cult following among collectors who like his purist style.
David Léclapart pouring samples of vin clair
Tasting Notes
2020 David Léclapart Trepail Blanc, Coteaux Champenois, 92+ points
Lots of gun flint on the nose intermixed with lime an apples. 12.5% Alcohol, only minimal sulfur added, 20mg. This tasted like a Chablis, had bright acidity but did feel too meager as white Coteaux can be at times. 92-93
2013 David Léclapart l’Artiste, 93 points
Blanc de Blanc, half/half fermented in oak. Parcels vary each year. Leads with green apples, very light oxidation and yellow apple. The palate is tight and precise, a little green tea aromas emerge as well. Very purist style, definitely not for the aperitif but with food.
2014 David Léclapart l’Apôtre, 93 points
Blanc de Blanc, 100% fermented in oak. From older wines planted 1946 of a parcel called La Pierre Saint-Martin. This was richer than the Artiste with more red apples and also a touch of cinnamon and nutmeg, lightly oxidative. Very dry finish, not a charmer, but the precision is remarkable.
2019 David Léclapart l’Aphrodisiac, 95 points
This is crafted from a blend of 80/20 Chardonnay/Pinot Noir, 100% vinified in barrels. The cuvée is not produced annually, but created in specific years when conditions favor this particular blend or when too little material is harvested to create all separate cuvés. The name, apparently proposed by his wife, suggests an alluring and seductive quality. It showe exactly like that. The outstanding 2019 vintage was visible. Lots of density and ripeness here combined with the precision of the winemaker style. red apples and baking spices, citrus underneath, a touch of hyacinth.
Author: Christian Raubach, WSET III, FWS, WSG Champagne Master
December 2024
