Champagne Huré Frères is a dynamic grower based in the village of Ludes in the Montagne de Reims, the same village where Bérêche has its home as well. Secli wines has introduced this estate to me in a few blind tastings and I liked the wines, so when a friend of mine organized a visit, I was most happy to join. The 10 ha estate (ca. 90k bottles) was established in 1960 by Georges Huré, and today, it is managed by the third generation of the family, François and Pierre Huré.
François, who received us studied oenology in Dijon and has gained international winemaking experience in Burgundy and abroad before joining the estate 2008. He came across as a man with a plan, willing to go the extra mile to achieve his goals. You can see that he knows his craft and is also aware what is happening left and right in the wine world. He mentioned that their wines come from the cooler side of the Montagne de Reims which used to be a challenge but now is not a bad thing today with global warming and walked us through how they make adjustments in palissage, effeuillage, harvest dates, etc. to arrive at the wines they really want. Together with his brother Pierre, they have implemented organic and biodynamic practices in their vineyards. Working their soils is key, said François.
The style of Huré Frères Champagnes is driven by precision and terroir transparency. They vinify using a mix of stainless steel, foudres, and barrels, fermenting with native yeasts and allowing long lees aging to develop complexity. Each year they produce 8-9 different cuvées. When we asked François about dosage he said that they do trials every year for each Cuvée with 0.5g increments and then decide on what they find tastes best. Each cuvée is crafted with meticulous attention to detail, from their flagship “Invitation” (a classic Extra Brut blend) to their single-varietal wines like the 4 Éléments series, showcasing the distinct character of Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier, and Pinot Noir from specific sites. Their range also includes innovative cuvées like “Mémoire,” a multi-vintage solera-style blend. Huré Frères has gained recognition for their thoughtful approach to farming and winemaking. William Kelley highlights, they are part of the growing movement of dynamic growers in Champagne who are elevating the perception of terroir-focused Champagnes. Their combination of traditional practices, modern biodynamic principles, and an emphasis on transparency has made them a rising star in the world of grower Champagnes.
François explaining the different terroirs around Ludes
Tasting Notes
NV, Huré Frères “Invitation”, 93+ Points
Based on the 2021 vintage, with 40% reserve wines, this cuvée typically blends 40% Pinot Noir, 40% Meunier, and 20% Chardonnay. The nose reveals aromas of freshly cut apples and a hint of cinnamon. On the palate, it is generous yet precise, striking a good balance between softness and freshness. This is a Champagne that will appeal both to seasoned connoisseurs and a broader audience. Punching well above its weight, it was one of the standout wines in the tasting. Much like Bérêche, Huré Frères demonstrates that an “entry-level” NV can hold its own against more prestigious bottlings. A fantastic QPR, needless to say, it far outshines the baseline NVs from many large houses.
NV, Huré Frères “Insouciance” Rosé, 89 Points
Based on the 2021 vintage, this rosé is a blend of 50% Pinot Noir, 20% Meunier, and 30% Chardonnay, with 10% of the Pinot Noir vinified as still red wine and 30% reserve wines. The nose is subtle, with whispers of fresh strawberries and citrus zest. On the palate, it is taut and crisp, with a distinctly low-dosage character that sets it apart. This is not your typical charming, fruit-forward rosé, but it offers an intriguing and serious expression in its own right.
2018 Huré Frères “Instantanée” Blanc de Noirs, 93 Points
A blend of 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Meunier sourced from the villages of Ludes and Rilly-la-Montagne, this wine opens with a restrained, slightly austere bouquet of yellow apples and fresh herbs. Swirling brings out hints of freshly baked bread and Williams pear. The heat of the 2018 vintage was managed admirably here, resulting in a Champagne with structure and finesse. While already enjoyable, this would benefit from additional cellaring to develop further complexity.
2019 Huré Frères “Inattendue” Blanc de Blancs, 94 Points
Fermented 80% in wood, this Blanc de Blancs is made from Chardonnay grown in Ludes and Rilly-la-Montagne. François Huré believes that 2019 was the best vintage of this millennium so far, and this wine reflects that confidence. The palate brims with density and energy, showcasing citrus and green apple flavors that bring remarkable freshness. While approachable now, it has immense aging potential and is one for the cellar.
NV Solera, Huré Frères “Mémoire”, 94 Points
Based on the 2020 vintage, this solera-style Champagne reveals lovely aromas of red apples and a generous, lightly oxidative patina that hints at its multi-vintage composition. The nose is open and inviting, while the palate balances richness with remarkable tension. The solera process adds depth and complexity, making this a standout wine in the lineup.
2017 Huré Frères “Inspiration”, 88 Points
Crafted from the challenging 2017 vintage, this 100% Pinot Noir Champagne stems from an experimental approach. François Huré explained that the team allowed the grapes to hang longer during a rainy fall, despite the onset of gray rot, separating affected berries during harvest. The result is a Champagne with a more oxidative profile than others in the range, showing notes of yellow apple, almonds, and a touch of spice. While intriguing, this is a wine to drink sooner rather than later.
2018 Huré Frères “4 Éléments” Blanc de Noirs Pinot Noir, 96 Points
The Cuvée 4 Éléments is only produced when the quality of the vintage is seen suitable to make single-varietal Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, or Meunier. The four elements represent: a single vineyard; a single vintage; a single grape variety; and a specific maturation method – typically aged for 18 months in 600-liter demi-muids. The Chardonnay is from Les Blanches Voies in Rilly-La-Montagne, the Pinot Noir from La Perthe in Ludes and the Meunier from 1963 Plantings in La Grosse Pierre in Ludes as well. This is exceptional, I liked immediately. The nose offers delicate notes of red berries, grapefruit, baking spices, and a whisper of caramel. On the palate, it is remarkably refined, creamy, and precise, delivering a harmonious and elegant experience (the sandy soils make for elegant Pinot expression). This is a top-tier wine and a true highlight of the tasting.
2018 Huré Frères “4 Éléments” Blanc de Blancs Chardonnay, 96+ Points
At least equally impressive, the Blanc de Blancs from this single-vineyard series is a masterpiece of elegance and precision. Citrus and green apple dominate the palate, complemented by aromas of warm croissant and a subtle hint of coconut. This wine combines remarkable finesse with caressing richness, making it an extraordinary expression of Chardonnay. Also a standout, with very good aging potential.
Author: Christian Raubach, WSET III, FWS, WSG Champagne Master
December 2024
