Cult Wineries – A Perspective
In many wine regions, there is always that one producer who seems to operate on an entirely different level, creating wines of such distinct quality and mystique that they command prices exponentially higher than their peers. Thanks to today’s global transparency delivered by the internet, the price premium for these wines ranges from 5x to a staggering 100x compared to similar labels. In Châteauneuf-du-Pape, it’s Château Rayas; in red Burgundy, Leroy; in white Burgundy, Coche-Dury; in the Loire, Clos Rougeard; Grange des Pères in the Languedoc; Soldera in Tuscany; and Selosse in Champagne. Consider these striking examples: A Savigny-Lès-Beaune Les Narbantons, a modest Burgundy appellation, typically costs 40€. The same vineyard vinified by Domaine Leroy, fetches an astronomical 3,500€. Similarly, a Meursault Village can be had for 50€ – unless it comes from Coche-Dury, where it starts at 500€. Anyone assuming this is just savvy marketing akin to Rolex, Hermès, or Ferrari is mistaken. That logic applies only to branded wines like Tignanello, Dom Pérignon, or Masseto. ON the contrary, the aforementioned domaines often engage in anti-marketing. Château Rayas, for instance, begrudgingly welcomes journalists and merchants, and its former proprietor, Jacques Reynaud, was infamous for hiding from Robert Parker when he tried to visit the Domaine. Gianfranco Soldera left the Brunello Consorzio, apalled by what he perceived as its declining quality standards, and now sells his wine as IGP. And Grange des Pères remains completely unknown outside collector circles, but sells a prices near Mouton Rothschild. Furthermore, wine is a poor social status symbol: you can’t wear it on your wrist, drive it around town, or display it without consuming – and thus destroying – it. Wine, therefore, is the ultimate self-indulgence product, offering personal joy rather than public validation.
Why This Introduction?
This significant gap in price and quality drives wine enthusiasts to a perpetual treasure hunt for the next Leroy or the next Rayas. When such producers are discovered, the ensuing rush is both justified and inevitable. In Burgundy, names like Bizot, Arnoux-Lachaux, Comte Liger-Belair, Lamy-Caillat, Arnaud Ente, and, of course, Cécile Tremblay have ascended to this coveted “next in line” status. These winemakers share a rare ability: even their humblest appellations deliver wines that provoke disbelief when you look at the label and think, How is this possible? The secret to their success remains elusive, as wine literature offers no definitive answers, and the winemakers themselves are understandably tight-lipped – who would reveal their trade secrets? Most likely, it’s a confluence of factors: obsessive attention to detail in the vineyard, minimal yields, organic or biodynamic farming, and exceptional talent in vinification and élevage. One other observation stands out: when a domaine transitions from ordinary to extraordinary, it typically takes five to ten years for the results to become fully apparent.
The Estate
Returning to Cécile Tremblay, her domaine may be relatively young, but it is deeply rooted in family history. For generations, her family has owned vineyard plots in Burgundy. It was Cécile’s decision to resume the direct cultivation of these vineyards and establish her own domaine in 2003. Even more intriguingly, her great-uncle apparently was the legendary Henri Jayer, one of the most iconic figures in Burgundy’s history. Perhaps she even received a tip or two from him on vinification and terroir management, who knows. After studying business and undergoing viticulture training, she began to bring her own vision to life. Today, her domaine spans 7 hectares.
Style and Winemaking
Cécile converted the estate to organic farming in 2005 and biodynamic practices in 2016. During our visit, she mentioned rising before dawn to complete vineyard tasks before the morning sun, in adherence to Rudolf Steiner’s biodynamic principles – a significant commitment to undertake. Biodynamics, with its focus on respecting the vineyard’s natural rhythms and biodiversity, not only enhances vine health but also amplifies the terroir’s expression in the wines. Whether or not one fully buys into its mystical elements, the results in the glass are hard to argue with.
Harvesting and winemaking are approached with meticulous care. Grapes are hand-picked to ensure only the best fruit is used. Fermentation is spontaneous, relying solely on native yeasts, which contributes to greater complexity and depth in the wines. Maturation takes place in custom-made oak barrels crafted by the haute couture cooperage Chassin, with each barrel tailored to its designated cuvée. The wines are bottled without filtration to preserve their natural purity and structure and are sealed with TCA-tested corks.
The result? Wines of impressive elegance and finesse, characterized by their clarity, precise aromatics, and refined balance. Bursting with fruit, energy, and freshness, each wine reflects the unique terroir of its origin and exhibits remarkable depth and complexity. Unsurprisingly, the domaine has quickly garnered the attention of international wine critics and collectors. High ratings from leading wine publications, combined with limited production volumes, have driven prices sky-high. Fortunately, the wines are allocated, offering the lucky few a chance to secure bottles below market value or find them at restaurant lists in France. Overall, Domaine Cécile Tremblay represents the pinnacle of contemporary Burgundy. Deeply rooted in tradition, yet innovative and sustainably run, the estate is uncompromising in its dedication to quality. Tremblay’s wines are not only a delight for the palate but also a testament to the passion and commitment poured into every bottle.
Tasting Notes
Regional / Morey
2023 Bourgogne Côte d’Or, 93+ pts
Domaine visit, barrel sample. Sourced from plots in Vosne and Chambolle, this wine offers intense aromas with sandy tannins and impressive concentration. Notes of blackcurrant and red fruit lend remarkable depth and complexity for a village-level wine.
2023 Morey-St-Denis, 94 pts
Domaine visit, barrel sample. Aromas of blueberries and violets dominate, with a dense structure and delightful spiciness, complemented by subtle herbal notes. True to Morey’s character, the wine has impressive structure and aging potential. Do not open before 2030.
2022 Morey-St-Denis Très Girard, 93–94 pts
Tasted at Grands Jours de Bourgogne. From a plot close to the estate, producing just 1,500 bottles per year, this village-level wine punches well above its weight, performing like a Premier Cru. A seamless combination of dark and red fruits with earthy nuances and solid structure. Needs time to show its best.
Vosne / Chambolle
2023 Chambolle-Musigny Les Cabottes, 94–95 pts
Domaine visit, barrel sample. Bursting with pure red and black fruit alongside crisp acidity. This wine is rich, elegant, and fresh, showcasing a refined structure and potential for a 95-point rating. Annual production: 2,700 bottles.
2022 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Feusselottes, 94–95 pts
Tasted at Grands Jours de Bourgogne. A stunning Chambolle, with floral aromas and sweet spice notes leaping from the glass. Excellent balance and elegance, with just 2,000 bottles produced annually.
2023 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Feusselottes, 95 pts
Domaine visit, barrel sample. Smoky, fresh, chalky, and elegant, this wine shows beautiful balance and great potential. This exceptional plot is also vinified by Mugneret-Gibourg with equal brilliance.
2022 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaumonts, 96 pts
Tasted at Grands Jours de Bourgogne. A charming bouquet of ripe cherries and blueberries immediately impresses. Vibrant freshness and energy make this an immensely appealing wine.
2023 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaumonts, 95–96 pts
Domaine visit, barrel sample. Packed with black fruits, licorice, and dark cherries, this wine is dense and structured, requiring time to reveal its full potential. Minuscule production: only 600 bottles per year.
Grand Crus
2023 Échézeaux Beaumont Bas, 95–96 pts
Domaine visit, barrel sample. From a newly acquired parcel (partially classified as Grand Cru), this wine is elegant and bright, with red fruits and soft, winding tannins. Graceful, like a ballerina, and with a promising future.
2022 Échézeaux du Dessus, 96–97 pts
Tasted at Grands Jours de Bourgogne. A striking wine, with intense dark and red fruit aromas leaping from the glass, supported by sweet spice and lively acidity. Exceptional depth and structure. Production: 900 bottles per year.
2023 Échézeaux du Dessus, 96–97 pts
Domaine visit, barrel sample. Bigger and more structured than the Beaumont Bas, with dark fruit notes and excellent aging potential. Matches the quality of the 2022 vintage.
2023 Clos de Vougeot, 96 pts
Domaine visit, barrel sample. Earthy and robust, with slight animalistic notes and great structure. Despite its power, the wine remains true to Tremblay’s elegant style. Already showing excellent complexity.
2022 Chapelle-Chambertin, 97–98 pts
Tasted at Grands Jours de Bourgogne. Magnificent presence on the palate, with layers of complex aromas gradually revealed with aeration. Profound depth and complexity. Do not open before 2032. From 80-year-old vines, producing just 1,500 bottles per year.
2023 Chapelle-Chambertin, 96–97 pts
Domaine visit, barrel sample. Earthy, dense, and smoky. Both grand and refined, this wine impresses with its depth and balance. On par with the outstanding 2022 vintage.
Author: Christian Raubach, WSET III, FWS, WSG Champagne Master
June 2024