This blind tasting was hosted by a renowned Swiss collector in the Romandie, who has been organizing exclusive Bordeaux tastings for over 20 years. The event was moderated by the French wine critic Jean-Marc Quarin, lending his expert guidance to the proceedings. The vertical tasting of Château Figeac attracted significant interest, and for good reason: this is a particularly unique Bordeaux for three key reasons.
- Blend
Château Figeac is one of the very few right bank Bordeaux with a blend (35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Cabernet Franc, 30% Merlot) resembling more the Left Bank. While this alone is not necessarily a mark of quality, it is certainly a unique characteristic. - Terroir
It is widely acknowledged in Bordeaux that Château Figeac’s terroir is on par with that of Château Cheval Blanc and one of the very best in St.Emilion. In the 19th century, Figeac spanned nearly 200 hectares, and Cheval Blanc itself was established in 1838 through the sale of parcels originally belonging to Figeac. The exceptional terroir is evident in the wine’s aromatic complexity. Figeac possesses what even many Grands Crus of the Right Bank lack: profound, “wet forest” aromatics more commonly associated with the Médoc. While it is relatively easy to produce supple, fruity Merlots—whether in Bordeaux, Bolgheri, Ticino or America—creating truly aromatic Merlots is a far greater challenge. - “Une belle endormie” (A Sleeping Beauty)
One should not speak ill of the dead, but during the era of Thierry Manoncourt (1947–2010), a qualitative laissez-faire prevailed at Château Figeac. During this time, the estate underperformed significantly, much to the frustration of collectors —a fact that became glaringly evident during this vertical tasting. Following Thierry Manoncourt’s demise, the long-overdue reforms were finally undertaken, alas, “science advances one funeral at a time”. A new technical director was appointed, Michel Rolland was brought on as a consultant, and the winery facilities were modernized (completed in 2021). At Figeac, one can thus distinguish three distinct eras: the pre-2010 performance, a transitional phase from 2011 to 2014, and a qualitative renaissance beginning in 2015. This renaissance culminated in the estate’s elevation to “Premier Grand Cru Classé A” status in autumn 2022. This promotion came rather swiftly, and many speculate that had Ausone, Cheval Blanc, and Angélus not withdrawn from the classification, it might have taken another decade to upgrade Figeac, that means after confirming that the new standards could be maintained. But let us leave this aside; the intrigues and skirmishes surrounding the ill-fated St-Émilion classification are a topic of their own.
The Tasting
The central question of this tasting was whether Château Figeac’s transformation over recent decades would be evident in a blind setting. The answer is unequivocal: yes. The younger vintages demonstrated a significant improvement in quality. Sixteen participants were present for the tasting, and informal comparisons at our table revealed the clear quality leap in the more recent vintages.
Flight 1 (1985–1990)
1985 Château Figeac – 91 Points
The nose is dominated by smoky aromas, reminiscent of excessive barrel toasting – a surprising characteristic for a 35-year-old wine. On the palate, the wine is light, with notes of sour cherry and a slightly underwhelming structure. While drinkable, it leans more towards mediocre than outstanding. Drink up.
1986 Château Figeac – Flawed
Unfortunately, this bottle was corked. Luckily only one out of the 20 bottles was flawed. Not rated.
1989 Château Figeac – 92 Points
A more restrained nose compared to the 1990 vintage, with a structure-driven profile that overshadows the fruit. The palate offers tertiary aromas on the finish but lacks the gravitas expected from this monumental vintage. Respectable, but modest in the context of the heralded 1989. Drink soon.
1990 Château Figeac – 94 Points
A touch of brett and earthy, barnyard aromas signal a wine of the old-school Bordeaux style. The palate is relatively light, aromatic, and fresh, though slightly thin for the vintage. Still, it stands as the best wine of this flight. Fully mature. Drink now.
Flight 2 (1994–2000)
1994 Château Figeac – 90 Points
A contrast between structure and aromatics characterizes this wine. It feels mature, with pleasing herbal notes, but lacks depth and breadth on the palate. A respectable effort, but best consumed now.
1995 Château Figeac – 90 Points
Similar to the 1996 vintage, this wine exhibits earthy aromas, sour cherry, and damp forest floor. The fruit is nearly gone, leaving barrel toasting and drying tannins to dominate. A missed opportunity for the vintage. Drink now.
1996 Château Figeac – 92 Points
Dark fruits and sour cherry dominate the nose, complemented by earthy undertones. The palate is fresh with pronounced acidity, though slightly lacking in fruit concentration. The tannins are well-integrated, making it a suitable companion for food. Better than the 1995. Ready to drink.
2000 Château Figeac – 95 Points
The clear standout in this flight. Past experiences with this wine have been inconsistent, with some bottles displaying green notes from unripe Cabernet tannins (pyrazines). However, in this tasting, no such issues. The wine showed a complex bouquet of barnyard aromas, forest floor, and dark berries. A solid fruit core is supported by melted tannins. Fully mature and benefits from brief decanting.
Flight 3 (2002–2008)
2002 Château Figeac – 95 Points
A surprising highlight of the evening, with many attendees mistaking it for the 2005 vintage. The precise, cool nose offers blue and red fruit nuances. The palate is elegant, with good presence and balance, leading to a long finish. According to Jean-Marc Quarin, the weather naturally reduced yields in 2002. This likely benefited Figeac, as the estate was notorious for overcropping during this period.
2005 Château Figeac – 89 Points
While 2005 is a great Bordeaux vintage in the left bank, it was less successful in Saint-Émilion due to excessive extraction, influenced by the prevailing Parker-driven style of the time. Here, overripe and jammy fruit notes are coupled with oxidative tendencies. The palate is overly extracted, lacking elegance and freshness. Given its price, one would do better to look for the 2010, 2015, or 2019 vintages.
2006 Château Figeac – 91 Points
The nose is initially muted, requiring vigorous swirling to reveal tertiary notes of sour cherry and earth. The palate is medium-bodied, with a slightly drying finish. A decent showing but lacks greatness. Ready to drink.
2008 Château Figeac – 92 Points
The nose reveals mature aromas of forest floor, but also marmalade-like elements and dominant oak-derived notes. On the palate, the fruit struggles to keep up with the tannins – an all-too-common flaw in Figeac before 2010. A lower yield in the vineyard would have elevated this wine.
Flight 4 (2009–2014, 2017)
2009 Château Figeac – 93 Points
Tasted alongside the 2010 vintage, an always-intriguing comparison reminiscent of 1989 vs. 1990. On this evening, the 2010 vintage prevailed, offering more fruit and richness. The 2009 showed strong oak-toasting, which overshadowed the wine’s inherent generosity. The palate felt surprisingly lean for such a ripe vintage. However, pleasing tertiary aromas were also detectable with swirling. A solid effort, though somewhat underwhelming for this stellar year. Drinks well now with a short decant.
2010 Château Figeac – 96 Points
A standout of the evening, the 2010 eclipsed the 2009 with its superior depth, balance, and precision. This wine exemplifies the best of the vintage, combining dense fruit, cool aromatics, and a fine, layered structure. The bouquet is quintessentially Figeac, with pine, forest floor, and earthy complexity. Youthful and full of potential. I recommend cellaring until at least 2030. One of the night’s most compelling wines, alongside the 2015 and 2019 vintages.
2014 Château Figeac – 92 Points
A restrained nose of cloves, red and dark fruits, and earthy nuances. Lovely, while the wine lacks the heft of a truly great Grand Cru, it is a reliable and pleasant companion at the table.
2017 Château Figeac – 94+ Points
A wine that really reflects the progress made after 2010. Despite being from a challenging vintage, it is an impressive result. The fruit is ripe without veering into overripe territory, with notes of blueberry, cherry, and gingerbread. Medium-bodied with excellent balance and a satisfying finish. This will drink beautifully from 2025 onward.
Flight 5 (2015–2019)
2015 Château Figeac – 96 Points
Part of a stellar duo of younger vintages, rivaled only by the 2019. The 2015 is more opulent, with riper fruit, yet it avoids overripe tendencies. There are still tannins to resolve, but this vintage may reach maturity slightly earlier than the 2016—around 2030. While I generally lean towards 2016, I found myself favoring the 2015 on this occasion.
2016 Château Figeac – 95 Points
Defined by precise fruit and an exquisite texture, the 2016 vintage epitomizes balance and classicism. The fruit is ripe yet cool and more restrained than in 2015. This wine needs time and will likely show its best after 2033. It will be fascinating to see whether the 2015 or 2016 wins this duel in ten years’ time.
2018 Château Figeac – 93 Points
A bold, ripe wine with dark fruit, plums, and vanilla—almost Californian in its proportions. Tasted alongside the 2019, the 2018 felt massive and, for my palate, rather plump. Some at the table, particularly those accustomed to Napa wines, appreciated it more. Even so, the 2019 was unanimously preferred, showing much better balance.
2019 Château Figeac – 97 Points
The undisputed wine of the night (WOTN), surpassing even the stellar 2010, 2015, and 2016. The nose is exuberant and ripe, with layered aromatics of cool blue fruits, black tea, pine, and baking spices. The palate is nothing short of spectacular—lush fruit, polished tannins, and a long, refreshing finish. This wine embodies the Figeac and Bordeaux style at its best. At the Southwold tasting, journalists have compared 2019 to the legendary 1982, and after this showing, that seems justified. Next to the 2019, the 2018 felt almost clumsy.
Author: Christian Raubach, WSET III, FWS, WSG Champagne Master
April 2022