A press review of the 2022 vintage suggests we are indeed looking at an exceptional year. Despite the extreme heat and dryness of the growing season, the wines are reportedly not overly heavy or unbalanced—a welcome contrast to 2003. If this holds true, it is a delightful surprise. Of course, one cannot ignore that Bordeaux’s marketing machine often frames the “best vintage ever” as the one currently available for sale. That said, it must be acknowledged that Bordeaux has steadily improved its quality over the past 20 years.
Today, in the CHF 25-75 price range, it produces wines that are hard to beat. While Burgundy might offer even greater finesse, it comes at a far higher price point. Wines from Italy, Spain, and the New World may be more approachable in their youth, but they often lack the aromatic complexity or balance of Bordeaux, veering toward being overly heavy. Bordeaux hits the “sweet spot” so cherished by experienced wine drinkers: a medium-bodied wine with excellent structure, making it an exceptional companion to food and, after 10-15 years of bottle age, developing remarkable aromatic depth.
2022: A Strong Vintage – Lots of purchase recommendations?
Returning to the press reviews, Jean-Marc Quarin, one of Bordeaux’s leading critics, is highly enthusiastic, describing the vintage as one of the best he has ever seen—a blend of 2016 and 2019. Even the typically reserved Jancis Robinson, known for her preference for leaner wines and her scathing critique of 2003, published a positive review in the Financial Times. Antonio Galloni of Vinous is similarly impressed, though he notes significant disparities between winners and losers. This raises the question: how did Bordeaux manage such a successful outcome despite the intense heat? Cooler nights compared to 2003 are often cited, as is the broader fact that Bordeaux has adapted its viticultural practices over several consecutive warm vintages (2015, 2018, 2019, and 2020) to cope with rising temperatures. A critical perspective, however, was offered by Wine-Searcher in an article speculating whether some wines might have been artificially acidified to enhance freshness, raising doubts about their long-term balance post-bottling (www.wine-searcher.com/m/2023/05/bordeauxs-2022-vintage-acid-test).
Nevertheless, positive to enthusiastic reviews dominate overall. After today’s tasting, I join the positive consensus. These are outstanding wines – rich, but with less heaviness than was sometimes evident in 2018 and 2020. The 2022 vintage reminds me more of 2010, another “more of everything” year. However, the precision of the tannins in 2022 is even greater. One thing is clear for both vintages: the grand names will not reach their ideal drinking window for at least 15 years. Patience is a must with the 2022 vintage!
Daniel Gazzar also showcased an attractive selection of vintages from 2010 to 2020 at the tasting. For those who have recently started building a Bordeaux cellar, it’s wise to include “back vintages” as well. There’s nothing worse than having a cellar full of wine but nothing ready to drink. Here are my impressions after a three-hour walkaround tasting. In addition to the 2022 vintage, other vintages were also on display, offering excellent opportunities for comparison:
Pessac-Léognan
2014 Haut-Bailly
This wine remains youthful, with a firm structure and earthy aromas that are slowly beginning to emerge. Compared to a more approachable wine like Smith Haut Lafitte, Haut-Bailly is stricter and not one for beginners. It consistently requires 15 years to reach drinking maturity, but when it does, it shines with profound aromas and excellent balance. (93 pts)
2022 Haut-Bailly
A very successful effort, showing freshness, strong structure, and impeccable tannin quality. (96 pts)
2016 Les Carmes Haut-Brion
Arguably the breakout estate of the last decade. Jean-Marc Quarin was among the first to highlight its rise. The estate’s new team employs whole-cluster fermentation – a method more commonly seen in Burgundy. Whether this represents Bordeaux’s future remains uncertain, but it undeniably works here. Since 2014, the wines have been highly aromatic and elegant. The 2016 was closed today, but its greatness was evident. Best to wait until at least 2030 to open. (96+ pts)
2022 Les Carmes Haut-Brion
Closely resembles the 2016, though with even more refinement. Displays remarkable freshness, blackberry, and flint-like notes. (97 pts)
2019 Domaine de Chevalier
Elegant with red fruit and toasted notes. More restrained compared to other 2019s at this stage. Like Haut-Bailly, this estate’s wines always require a bit more time in the cellar. (94 pts)
2022 Domaine de Chevalier
Dominated by primary aromas of raspberry, cherry, and noticeable oak with clove notes. A good wine, but the white wine from this estate stole the show. (94–95 pts)
2016 Château de Fieuzal
For those on a budget seeking excellent Bordeaux, red Fieuzal is a perfect choice. The 2009 remains a fond memory, and the 2016 is equally impressive. Highly expressive aromas of Provençal herbs, vanilla, tobacco, and dark fruits combine with a smooth palate. Hard not to love this wine. (94 pts)
2022 Château de Fieuzal
A contender for the best wine in its price category, the 2022 might surpass even the 2016. Aroma, fruit, and structure are all outstanding. (94+ pts)
2016 Château Latour-Martillac
Owned by the same group as Pape Clément, this estate showcased an excellent 2016. Very charming with classic Pessac aromas of damp forest floor, animal notes, dark fruit, and silky tannins. A lot of wine for the price and almost ready to drink. (94 pts)
2010 Pape Clément
The 1996, 2000, and even 2001 Pape Clément vintages rank among my most memorable Bordeaux experiences. However, the estate later leaned heavily into Parker-style wines, as the dense, Napa-like profile of the 2010 shows. (92 pts)
2022 Pape Clément
Since 2016, Pape Clément has been moving back toward greater elegance, and the 2022 reflects this shift. Full-bodied, seemingly with a high proportion of Merlot, but not excessive. Shows good freshness, though aromatically still quite restrained, making it hard to fully assess at this stage. (94+ pts)
2010 Smith Haut Lafitte
The 2010 showed itself in excellent form, with slightly more freshness and structure. It will reach its first drinking window in 3–4 years. A great wine. (95+ pts)
2015 Smith Haut Lafitte
This vintage features ripe fruit, with plum and noticeable oak aromas. I have encountered bottles that leaned more toward heat, but today it was pleasant, showing dark fruit and toasty notes—something for hedonists. However, one might question whether the additional CHF 50 for the black anniversary label is justified. The 2022 vintage was not presented. (93 pts)
Left Bank
Margaux
The Margaux appellation has historically been challenging, with few standout wines beyond Château Palmer and Château Margaux. However, the quality gap has significantly narrowed in recent years, as evidenced by today’s lineup.
2016 Brane-Cantenac
A château with growing momentum – buy before prices soar. Jean-Marc Quarin was one of the first to highlight its resurgence in 2015. Wonderful aromas and polished tannins make this a superb wine. Like the 2022 vintage, it’s a bargain under CHF 100. (96 pts)
2022 Brane-Cantenac
Even better than the 2016. The tannin quality here is dreamlike, pure silk, accompanied by lovely dark fruit aromas. A truly outstanding wine. (97 pts)
2010 Cantenac-Brown
This wine felt overly extracted, with notes of overripe plum dominating the profile. (88 pts)
2022 Cantenac-Brown
A notable improvement over the 2010. Both the fruit and tannins are far better balanced. (93 pts)
2022 Boyd-Cantenac
The least impressive 2022 tasted today, reminiscent of a simple table wine. (87 pts)
2019 Boyd-Cantenac
Marked by prominent bread and yeast notes – possibly too much Brett? Shows dark fruit and earthy tones. Rustic but an improvement over the 2022. (89–90 pts)
2019 Château Kirwan
Under the management of Sophie Schyler since 2016, Kirwan has transitioned away from producing overly modern, aromatically bland wines. The Parker-esque formula of “late harvest, heavy extraction, and excessive oak” often comes at the expense of complexity. Today’s wine shows a much higher level of quality, with herbal and licorice notes adding interest. A great value. (95 pts)
2022 Château Kirwan
On par with the 2019, offering similar spice and slightly more vibrancy. Both are highly recommended, with the purchase decision depending on release prices. (95 pts)
2019 Rauzan-Ségla
Owned by Chanel, like Canon, Rauzan-Ségla has made significant strides in recent years. A highly distinctive wine with spicy Herbes de Provence aromas. (96 pts)
2022 Rauzan-Ségla
Beautiful aromatics, featuring dark cherry and menthol. (96–97 pts)
2009 Château Lascombes
For the estate’s typically rich style, the 2009 is well-executed, showcasing ripe fruit and charming barnyard notes characteristic of mature Bordeaux. Entering its first drinking window. (93 pts)
2022 Château Lascombes
Under private equity ownership since 2001, Lascombes often leaned toward over-extraction and oak. However, the 2022 vintage feels much more balanced. The recent ownership change and return to a classic label design hint at a shift toward a more traditional style. Still slightly fuller-bodied than its Margaux peers but smooth and aromatic—a pleasant surprise. (94+ pts)
2019 Château du Tertre
Historically managed alongside Giscours, du Tertre had been considered a simpler wine. However, the 2019 showed surprisingly well today. Charming in style and excellent value. (92 pts)
2022 Château du Tertre
A step up from the 2019, with floral notes and a velvety texture. An affordable wine that can be enjoyed early while waiting for others to mature. (93–94 pts)
2019 Château Giscours
Expected to outperform Château du Tertre, but that wasn’t the case today. The tannins felt rustic compared to the fruit. (91 pts)
2022 Château Giscours
Better executed than the 2019, showing more harmony. However, given the progress made by neighboring estates, there’s still room for improvement. (92–93 pts)
2022 Château d’Issan
A light and elegant wine with subtle barnyard notes. Well-balanced but not exceptional. (92 pts)
St. Julien
2010 Château Gruaud Larose
A fantastic wine, dense and fresh with excellent structure and the hallmark stable and forest floor notes of the Médoc. One must appreciate the masculine Brett aromas for which Gruaud Larose is known. Attractively priced, this is a classic Médoc example now entering its drinking window. (95 pts)
2019 Château Gruaud Larose
Comparable to the 2010 but slightly more refined. Medium-bodied with good length. (95 pts)
2015 Léoville Poyferré
Consistently my favorite among the three Léovilles due to its less stringent tannins. The 2015 shows ripe fruit and good structure but is currently very closed. Drinking window likely won’t open before 2030. (95 pts)
2022 Léoville Poyferré
Stylistically similar to the 2015 but with even finer structure. As usual with Léoville Poyferré, there’s plenty of oak, though it integrates beautifully after 15 years. Currently enjoying the 1996 and 2005 vintages—a reminder that patience always pays off in the Médoc. (96 pts)
2022 Château Lagrange
Tasted alongside Talbot, this wine showed similar elegance, with notes of blue and red fruits and slightly more volume. The tannin structure is particularly well-executed. (93+ pts)
2022 Château Mauvesin Barton
An unfamiliar name from Moulis but an impressive value. Nicely balanced, elegant, and likely to reach maturity much earlier than the other Barton wines, which typically require extended cellaring. (92 pts)
2022 Château Langoa Barton
Very pure and classic. Light-bodied but not thin. The tannins are less massive than those of Léoville Barton, though this too will require time. (93 pts)
2022 Léoville Barton
Lots of cassis on the nose. Powerful and structured as always, with tremendous potential. Buyers will need patience, drink no earlier than 2037. (95 pts)
2022 Château Talbot
With Jean-Michel Laporte (formerly of La Conseillante) as the new technical director since 2020, Talbot’s wines are steadily improving. The 2022 was highly enjoyable—a precise and elegant Cabernet-driven wine, light yet not lacking substance. (92 pts)
2019 Château Beychevelle
A well-known name but consistently underperforms its potential. While elegant and light-footed, it often lacks depth—likely a result of overly generous yields. The 2019 feels somewhat innocuous for such a strong vintage but delivers pleasing aromatics. (92–93 pts)
2022 Château Beychevelle
A step up from the 2019, with better concentration. Lovely blackberry and toast notes. (94 pts)
Pauillac / St. Estèphe
2016 Calon Ségur
For many years, this château was overshadowed by Montrose and Cos d’Estournel. Since its sale in 2012, Calon Ségur has gradually closed the gap. A very elegant wine, despite the classic St. Estèphe structure, with tannins that are worlds better than they were 10 years ago. Deep aromatic profile. Those who bought this in 2016 grabbed a real bargain. But even today, it’s still worth buying (9
2022 Calon Ségur
Very similar to the 2016. Medium-bodied, beautiful forest floor aromas, good structure without roughness. This will be truly great, but please don’t open it before 2037 (96+ pts).
2018 Phelan Ségur
Riper than the 2022, but not as elegant, with more dark fruit, quite accessible (92 pts).
2022 Phelan Ségur
A very successful wine. Better balance than the 2018. Beautiful aromas, robust St. Estèphe structure (93+ pts).
2019 Branaire-Ducru
An elegant, very classic wine, for purists. Price is attractive (93 pts).
2022 Branaire-Ducru
This wine still felt quite primary and was difficult to assess. From the first impression, it seems it will be similar to the 2019 (92-93 pts).
2016 Batailley
Better than the 2022, still a bit hot and oaky, but in line with what can be expected (90 pts).
2022 Batailley
This wine felt rather hot and overdone (88 pts).
2022 Pedesclaux
The extraction and tannins are harmonious, but the wine is rather simple in terms of aromas (91 pts).
2020 Pichon Lalande
If you know the 1982, you’ll understand the potential of this wine. For a long time, Pichon Baron was the more reliable one. Since 2011, Philippe Moreau has been the technical director, and the rise has been steep. Both the 2020 and 2022 are world-class here. Aromatic depth paired with graceful elegance. I was especially surprised with the 2020 as it showed no signs of heaviness. Truly exceptional (97 pts).
2022 Pichon Lalande
Fantastic wine, even better than the 2020. Burgundian, elegant, complex (98 pts).
2018 Pichon Baron
A very well-done 2018. Dark fruit, forest floor, good freshness, and massive structure. A great Pauillac (96 pts).
2022 Pichon Baron
Lighter and more elegant than the 2018. Excellent balance, darker than Pichon Lalande but also top-notch. It will be exciting to compare these two side by side starting in 2037 (96-97 pts).
2016 Pontet Canet
Almost every tasting has a wine that is overrated. Today, that wine was Pontet Canet. A wine I’ve always had trouble with, except in 2010. Though biodynamic practices have been in place for a long time, when you taste the wine, you’re still in the Parker era. A lot of extraction, alcohol, and oak, with little aroma. Even William Kelley and Neal Martin have criticized its style and consistency. William Kelley, probably the best taster of our time, even has a ban from the estate. The 2016 was especially perplexing, it was supposed to be a moderate vintage, yet the wine was still too heady (89 pts).
2020 Pontet Canet
Then came the expression of the hot 2020 vintage. Definitely too much heat and alcohol, unharmonious, almost no aromas (87 pts).
Médoc / Moulis
2019 Chasse Spleen
Well-made, a simpler wine but with lots of finesse, beautiful tobacco notes. The 2022 is slightly better (91 pts).
2022 Chasse Spleen
Elegant with balanced body. Very good balance. In the past, the tannins here were sometimes a bit rough, but not with the 2022 (92 pts).
2022 Sociando Mallet
Quite a bit of structure for the fruit. Needs more time to come together, a bit rustic, but this wine always needs a little extra time (90 pts).
2022 Cantemerle
Lighter wine, not over-extracted. Nice fruit, leaning more towards the red spectrum than the blue one. Good value for the price (90 pts).
Right Bank
St.Emilion
2022 d’Aiguilhe
Like Canon la Gaffelière, a wine from Stephan Neipperg. These are made quite modern, with a bit more extraction and a good amount of oak, but still never overdone. Both wines are great for Bordeaux beginners who want to ease into the tannin-rich Pauillacs. The 2022 Aiguile impresses with pleasant fullness and beautiful blue fruit notes. A lot of wine for a small price (92 pts).
2022 Canon La Gaffelière
Blueberries and vanilla dominate the nose. Full-bodied with good structure and freshness. A great wine, always offering good value for money (95 pts).
2010 Canon
Very powerful and ripe. The 15% alcohol is noticeable. More for Napa drinkers. The 2022 is in a different league (94 pts).
2022 Canon
A very Burgundian wine. Beautifully floral, deep, with a polished structure. If they keep this up, it will be a candidate for a 1st Grand Cru Classé A upgrade in 2032 (97-98 pts).
2016 Clos Fourtet
Like Troplong Mondot, I personally find Clos Fourtet often too heavy. The 2016 vintage plays in the château’s favor. Elegant mouthfeel, beautiful blue fruit, still quite a bit of oak. Mineral finish (94 pts).
2022 Clos Fourtet
I had a bit more difficulty with this one. Quite a bit of plum on the nose. Has it become too ripe? I would wait for the arrival of this wine (91-94 pts).
2018 Figeac
A few weeks ago, we published a Figeac vertical on this website. For more information on the recent history of this château, read the report. The 2018 was not my favorite at this tasting, and it’s still too ripe and heavy for a classic Figeac, almost Napaesque (92 pts).
2022 Figeac
Much more my style than the 2018. As always, due to the grape variety proportions, it’s noticeably lighter than its neighbors. Precise mouthfeel, good tannin structure that will need time. The aromas are still closed, but with Figeac, there’s no need to worry. Once it’s drinkable, it will always be among the most complex wines aromatically (96-97 pts).
2016 Fleur Cardinale
This wine immediately impressed. Beautiful floral notes with dark berries. Balanced and not overdone. Producing a Merlot blend like this for the price is something other wine regions in the world can only dream of (94 pts).
2022 Fleur Cardinale
The 2022 is very similar to the 2016, and it was hard to find significant differences, maybe a touch more volume (94 pts). I would carefully watch the release price and keep the 2016 as an alternative.
2016 Troplong Mondot
A wine that was very extracted and opulent for many years. In recent years, they’ve dialed it back. This, along with the fact that 2016 was a balanced year, has done the wine good. It’s still on the ripe side with plum aromas, but the balance is there. If you like a fuller style, this is a good choice (95 pts). The 2022 vintage was not presented at the tasting.
Pomerol
2022 La Conseillante
This wine has always been close to the best Pomerols like Petrus, Trotanoy, Eglise Clinet, and Vieux Certan in good years. Since Marielle Cazaux joined in 2015, the quality has continued to rise. The 2022 is no exception, showcasing deep blue fruit with violets and excellent balance. A truly great wine offering a Petrus-like experience for about 200 euros (97-98 pts).
2016 Clinet
Plush mouthfeel, beautiful blue fruit with cake-like aromas, good freshness as we expect from the 2016. Pomerol is an expensive appellation, as the châteaux are generally smaller than in the Médoc and benefit from the “Petrus bonus.” If you’re looking for a top Pomerol at an attractive price, Clinet is worth considering (96 pts). The 2022 vintage was not presented at the tasting.
Daniel Gazzar and wine journalist Yves Beck
White wines
2019 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc
A truly exceptional wine, which is rare for a Sauvignon Blanc. A spectacular aromatic display. Deep, with herbs, citrus, and grassy notes. One of the best Sauvignon Blanc blends I have ever had, and in a completely different league than the other producers today. Having tasted many oxidized Domaine de Chevalier white wines, I made sure to ask if this problem has been addressed. I was shown the Diam corks and was told that this was the result of a larger investigation into inconsistent, leaky corks. We would be thrilled if this outstanding wine remains in this form for many years to come (96 pts).
2022 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc
Also very good, perhaps not as extravagant as the 2019, but still top-notch (95 pts).
2021 Fieuzal Blanc
Nose with gooseberries and limes. Rather simple in structure (88 pts).
2022 Fieuzal Blanc
More volume than the 2021, fresh and crisp (90 pts).
2020 Carbonieux Blanc
A relatively simple wine with many grassy notes typical of New Zealand (88 pts).
2016 Pape Clément Blanc
Fresh and crisp, floral aromas mixed with grassy notes. Good but not outstanding (93 pts).
2022 Pape Clément Blanc
A bit riper than the 2016, which makes it more charming at first, but it lacks the same freshness in the finish (92 pts).
To buy en Primeur or not?
A question Bordeaux enthusiasts frequently face is whether to buy en Primeur or wait until the wines are bottled and available in physical wine stores, typically two years later. This is a valid question, as prices don’t always increase after the wines are bottled. In the 80s and 90s, this was almost always the case for good vintages, as the châteaux would only moderately raise prices. However, the difference between a Bordeaux from 1990 and 1991 in the secondary market is massive today. Now, it’s different. Many Bordeaux châteaux are professionally managed and understand the secondary market, so price increases for good vintages are often priced in immediately. Here are some examples from the past 25 years and how expensive each vintage was launched en Primeur:
• Very good and relatively affordable: 2016, 2019
• Very good but expensive: 2000, 2005
• Very good but very expensive: 2009, 2010 (prices today below release prices!)
• Good but expensive: 1995, 2015, 2018, 2020
• Average but at least affordable: 2001, 2004, 2008, 2012, 2014, 2017
• Below average and yet expensive: 1997, 2003, 2011
• Below average, but at least affordable: 2002, 2013
Beyond the prices, there are additional reasons why one might consider purchasing en Primeur. The most important reason is the purchase of large formats. These are available en Primeur without significant price increases but quickly become 20-30% more expensive later because fewer large formats are released to the market. Another reason is to buy wines on the rise, which, due to high ratings, may command higher prices in the future. In recent years, wines like Les Carmes Haut-Brion, Canon, Calon Ségur, and Brane-Cantenac have been such examples.
2022 – Prices are on the upper end
Live-ex price/quality comparisons on first releases in 2022 EP
The 2022 vintage, as seen from the first releases (Cheval Blanc +20%, Angelus +30%, Leoville Barton +15%), is positioned at the higher end of the price scale. Thanks to the British wine trading website Live-ex (www.liv-ex.com), you can see from the published charts where the 2022 vintage stands compared to the current prices of the last 10 years. Visiting this website, as well as www.weinsearcher.com, is recommended before making a purchase. You should carefully consider whether to spend more than what you would pay for the similarly rated recent vintages such as 2016 or 2019.
The event hosted by Daniel Gazzar Weine (www.daniel-vins.ch) – Zurich, Sihlcity, May 11, 2023. The original report was published in in German in www.vinifera-mundi.ch.
Author: Christian Raubach, WSET III, FWS, WSG Champagne Master