Over two days we tasted all important names of Bordeaux 2009, 48 red wines, at age 10. The left bank (average rating 94.2) clearly trumps the right bank (average rating 92.6): Elegance, purity and freshness vs over-extraction, ripeness and oxidation. But there are some winners on the right bank too (Cheval Blanc, Petrus, Hosanna for now; Lafleur and Trotanoy with medium-term potential) but the highest scores were given to left bank wines (Margaux #1 overall, Palmer, Mouton, for now, Latour, St. Juliens medium-term). I guess purists will not like the loads of oak-derived aromas which in some wines are great but can make the wines a bit slutty (Cheval, Margaux, quite a lot of right banks). But there are plenty of more classically shaped wines too. Overall, the 2009s are a lot of fun with many pockets of greatness but I would be very selective on the right bank. If you like more elegant, subtle and classic wines I would focus on 2005/2010/2016. All wines tasted blind and without decanting.
All wines were served and scored blind (day 1 right bank, day 2 left bank). The top wineries came out on top as you can see in the Top 10 list below. Best appellations were Margaux and Pomerol. But there were some surprises too. See below.
Average scores from 4 tasters (incl. JM Quarin, the French wine critic).
The Top 10 Wines
1) Palmer 98.3
2) Cheval Blanc 97.5
3) Margaux 97.3
3) Mouton Rothschild 97.3
5) Vieux Chateau Certan 96.3
6) Lafleur 96.0
7) Latour 95.8
7) Smith Haut Lafitte 95.8
7) Petrus 95.8
7) Hosanna 95.8
Top Appellations
1) Margaux 95.35
2) Pomerol 94.88
3) Pauillac 94.45
4) Saint-Estephe 94.38
5) Pessac-Leognan 93.75
6) Saint-Julien 93.42
7) Saint-Emillion 92.8
Right Bank vs Left Bank
1) Right Bank 94.24
2) Left Bank 93.64
Surprises
1) Smith Haut Lafitte in the Top 10 (great call by RP)
2) Haut Brion only 39th out of 48 wines (off-bottle)
3) Lafite only 41st out of 48 wines (not a Lafite year)
2009 VS other vintage retrospectives (updated 02/24)
AVERAGE GROUP SCORE
1) 2009 93.9 (Tasted in 2019)
2) 2010 93.0 (2020)
3) 2000 92.7 (2021)
4) 2012 92.1 (2022)
5) 2011 91.3 (2021)
6) 2003 91.1 (2023)
7) 2004 91.0 (2024)
WINES >95 AVERAGE SCORE
1) 2009 17x (47 red wines)
2) 2010 13x (61)
3) 2000 4x (48)
4) 2012 4x (33)
5) 2011 3x (30)
6) 2003 1x (29)
6) 2004 1x (33)
WINES >97 AVERAGE SCORE
1) 2010 5x
2) 2009 4x
3) 2000, 2003, 2004, 2011, 2012 0x
Tasting Notes
Day One
Flight 1
2009 Guinaudeau “G” Acte 1, 88 Points
Rather dark, tarty fruit, some smoke on the medium- expressive nose, more red fruit, nuttiness and minerality on the palate. Fresh but with tannins that are not well integrated. Not overly deep and long. Limited fun. Solid but nothing to chase.
Average blind score 4 tasters: 90.0
Rank: 45th out of 48 wines
2009 Château Laroze, 89 Points
Fairly dense dark fruit with some coffee on the medium- expressive nose. More red fruit, some not integrated oak and minerality on the palate. Not so deep and long and here too, tannins with rough edges and slightly drying at the end. Nothing special.
Average blind score 4 tasters: 91.5
Rank: 42nd out of 48 wines
2009 Château Faugères St. Émilion Grand Cru, 78 Points
Probably the worst of 24 wines from the right bank. Heat and oxidation, soy sauce aromas among dark, tarty fruit on the nose. A tad better on the palate with lots of herbs and lots of too ripe fruit. But the wine is quickly drying out and leaves a harsh impression. This is a miss. On a fast track downwards.
Average blind score 4 tasters: 87
Rank: 48th out of 48 wines
2009 Château Bellevue Mondotte, 90 Points
Very ripe dark and red fruit on the nose and palate along some minerality and herbal scents. Slightly drying tannins, good freshness but that can’t save it. Some heat noticeable too. I acknowledge the medium+ complexity but not much fun for me but others at the table liked it a bit better – and obviously Parker too. JM Quarin, the French wine critic, mentioned at the tasting that an array of wines saw their peak En Primeur and did not age well in barrels and now bottles. This might explain why the En Primeur Ratings were clearly higher. This is clearly on a downward path.
Average blind score 4 tasters: 92.0
Rank: 39th out of 48 wines, (shared rank with Haut Brion)
Flight 2
2009 Château Troplong Mondot, 91 Points
Borderline ripe on the nose, lots of nutty and coffee aroma visible, no heat. Better on the palate, clearer, more precision, minerality providing further lift, darker ripe fruit, roasted almonds but also some alcohol noticeable. Tannins fairly fine but slightly drying towards the end. I don’t think this wine will be long-lived. 91/, 92 Points.
Average blind score 4 tasters: 93.8
Rank: 29th out of 48 wines, (shared rank with Mission Haut Brion)
2009 Clos Fourtet, 90 Points
Slight signs of age with some soy sauce and oxidative notes on the nose. Fresher and better on the palate with a candied but not too ripe styled fruit (cassis) and a layer of minerality. Well-integrated tannins, good acidity. Pleasant on the palate but with a rather short finish and medium- complexity. Given the signs of age at the nose, this seems on a downward path and will likely not be very long-lived.
Average blind score 4 tasters: 89.5
Rank: 46th out of 48 wines
2009 Château Pavie Decesse, 87 Points
Another too ripe, too extracted 2009 right bank. Dark, thick, borderline ripe fruit, some nuts. Some woody notes too. On the palate a well-defined minerality tries to balance all the power but falls a bit short. Too much extraction and slightly elevated alcohol don’t leave any space for other nuances to shine. Tannins noticeable with some edges and seem not that well-integrated. Slightly drying finish. Not a wine I would chase.
Average blind score 4 tasters: 92.3
Rank: 37th out of 48 wines, (shared rank with Haut Bailly)
2009 Château Beausejour Duffau Lagarrosse, 95 Points
After eight highly mediocre wines finally the first highlight. Stands its ground in a flight with Cheval, Ausone and Angelus. At first the nose was fairly muted but it opened-up with some time and swirling. Dark tarty fruit, smoke, minerality on the nose. With time on the palate and nose more oak aromas with coffee and roasted almonds. On the palate much more red fruit with loads of ripe. Good complexity, good freshness cutting through all the ripe fruit. Well balanced and fairly long. A first winner. However, I’m not sure if this wine should be kept in the cellar for much longer. I see some risks that it might not hold up well for much longer. 95+ points today.
Average blind score 4 tasters: 94.8
Rank: 18th out of 48 wines, (shared rank with Montrose, Ausone, Brane Cantenac)
Flight 3
2009 Château Cheval Blanc, 97 Points
Tasted blind. Probably the most intense, room filling nose of the right bank with tons of dark and red fruit. Quite ripe, a bit tarty and candied but still fresh enough. Additionally very strong and pure coffee notes and a nuttiness. On the palate the same aromas with black currant and blackberry liquor, strawberries and red currant, again lots of coffee beans and some roasted nuts. Yes, it is ripe and with a strong oak influence but it is still nicely fresh and round. The tannins are ultra-fine and well-integrated acidity. Complexity, precision and length on an elevated level. This wine offers a lot of pleasure today but it’s a slutty wine. I doubt, however, that it will have an ultra-long life. I would rather drink it in the next 5 to 10 years. In a good spot today, even without any decanting. This is quite singular. 97++ points for all the complexity.
Average blind score 4 tasters: 97.5
Rank: 2nd out of 48 wines
2009 Château Ausone, 95 Points
This wine showed the freshest, most terroir-driven profile of the 24 right bank wines we had. While Cheval Blanc, VCC, Petrus where more on the slutty, hedonistic side of the spectrum, this is clearly more an intellectual wine. Lots of limestone, crushed rocks, graphite rather cool dark berries and on the palate more fresh strawberries. At first the nose was a tad muted but opened up with time. Medium+ complexity but well balanced. Tannins still slightly noticeable but very fine. This is a balanced, elegant and long wine and in this round with all the power and ripeness definitely rather an odd-one-out. If you open a bottle today, I would give it a long decant (8+ hours is advised). 95++ points.
Average blind score 4 tasters: 94.8
Rank: 18th out of 48 wines, (shared rank with Montrose, Brane Cantenac, Beausejour Duffau)
2009 Château Angélus, 93 Points
Had not an easy stand in flight with Cheval Blanc which was so much more expressive. Fairly muted at first and just slowly opening up with some swirling. The complexity is on an elevated level with relatively well-delineated aromas of red berries, smoke, coffee, cacao and limestone as the main pillars. Very fine and well-integrated tannins, good fresheness, good length, just some very small signs of alcohol. I guess if this get the proper decant (8+ hours is advised) it can shine more today. The score definitely has some upside.
Average blind score 4 tasters: 95.0
Rank: 15th out of 48 wines, (shared rank with Clos L’Eglise, Pape Clement)
2009 Château Clinet, 94 Points
This wine showed a bit less concentrated and expressive than the heavyweights we had alongside (Cheval, Beausejour Duffau, Eglise Clinet). Aromas of red and darker berries, some coffee and nutty notes and a herbal component, junt hints of minerality. Not too ripe or extracted. Good, soft fine structure and good freshness. I would consider this as one of the right bank winners, especially in the long-run. Others might be better today but this is more suited for the long-run (others won‘t have such a long life). , 94 Points today, but definitely some upside here.
Average blind score 4 tasters: 94.5
Rank: 22nd out of 48 wines, (shared rank with L’Evangile, Pontet Canet, Le Pin)
Chateau Cheval Blanc was the runner-up with the group
Flight 4
2009 Château L’Evangile, 94 Points
Not the most expressive wine tonight. It got a bit crushed surrounded by some heavyweights drank alongside. Sweet red fruit, some subtle oak aromas of coffee and chocolate, some green hints but not on a level that would borthering. Well crafted with a soft structure, not too much extraction, perfect tannins. Probably the most burgundian structrue and stature of all the 24 right bank wines tasted. I guess with a proper decant (I would give it at least 4 hours of air) the score could climb higher. , 94 Points today but rightly decanted and following it over more hours I see 2, 3 additional points. Definitely one of the right banks that can and will have a longer life.
Average blind score 4 tasters: 94.5
Rank: 22nd out of 48 wines, (shared rank with Pontet Canet, Le Pin, Clinet)
2009 Château L’Eglise-Clinet, 96 Points
One of the surprises and one of the best right banks today. Very much dominated by pure strawberry (fresh, candied, liquor), lots of herbs and limestone to complement the bouquet. Yes, it is ripe but in a very good way. The structure is impeccable with very fine tannins and a very good freshness and a layer of minty notes providing further freshness. , 96 Points today.
Average blind score 4 tasters: 95.5
Rank: 11th out of 48 wines, (shared rank with Trotanoy)
2009 Château Gazin Pomerol, 89 Points
This is the fourth vintage of Gazin I‘m tasting (14, 15, 16 are the others) and I didn‘t like a single one of them. This one has too much ripeness and too much alcohol showing. Yes, there is freshness and there is not too much extraction but it‘s just not balanced enough. Judging from this bottle I doubt that it will ever be a great wine.
Average blind score 4 tasters: 91.0
Rank: 44th out of 48 wines
2009 Château Trotanoy, 95 Points
Black currant, some blackberries and some smoke on the nose. Nose just medium- expressive. Much more showing on the palate with pure not too ripe strawberries and other red berries and much more herbal aromas but no green notes. On this day it wasn’t the deepest and most expressive wine but certainly one of the wines with the biggest finesse (I noted „pure elegance in a bottle“). No rough edges, perfect tannins, very good freshness and great length. 95+ points today but following this bottle over an evening would probably lead to more points.
Average blind score 4 tasters: 95.5
Rank: 11th out of 48 wines, (shared rank with Eglise Clinet)
Flight 5
2009 Pétrus, 96 Points
This was one of the winners of the evening thanks to an elevated complexity with lots of minerality with limestone, crushed rock, lots of ripe dark fruit and more red fruit on the palate. Lots of pine tree, some coffee, nut ganache and slightly burnt sugar. Very good aromatic pressure, not too ripe, good precision all built in a very good structural frame with lots of very fine tannins and well-integrated acidity. The purity here is better than with the Cheval Blanc but the latter is currently probably a tad more seductive. I‘m not entirely convinced that both wines will have a long life, though. Anyway, great to drink right now. , 96 Points with some upside.
Average blind score 4 tasters: 95.8
Rank: 7th out of 48 wines, (shared rank with Latour, SHL, Hosanna)
2009 Vieux Château Certan, 96 Points
Dark nose with freshly roasted coffee beans, some nutty aromas and dark fruit. Lots of cassis liquor on the nose and palate. Very dominant but very seductive and pure. Blind I wouldn‘t have guessed 85% Merlot so dark the fruit expression currently shows. Due to the intensity of the fruit the wines shows less complex than the Petrus, Cheval, Eglise Clinet or Hosanna but there‘s not just one way to be a great wine and this is just damn good to drink. The structure is impeccable and the length is great. At least , 96 Points.
Average blind score 4 tasters: 96.3
Rank: 5th out of 48 wines
2009 Château Lafleur, 96 Points
This is in another camp than many other right banks with fresh, very pure red fruit, mostly strawberries. So long, intense but with purity and elegance. Some minerality to complement. Probably the finest right bank in the lineup. , 96 Points with upside to 98-100 as age will bring more complex aromas forward.
Average blind score 4 tasters: 96.0
Rank: 6th out of 48 wines
Many other right banks like VCC, Cheval Blanc or to some to some degree Petrus and Le Pin shine with seductive ripeness and complexity. Lafleur, together with Lafleur, Trotanoy, Hosanna, to some degree Eglise Clinet are on the other side of the spectrum with purity and freshness. I get the feeling that the first category is the one you wanna spend a night with and the latter the one you want to spend your life with.
2009 Château Hosanna, 97 Points
One of the best right banks if not the best today. In the elegant, fresh and pure camp (with Trotanoy, Lafleur, Eglise Clinet) it shined with a complex bouquet of strawberries, red currant, cassis, blackberries, crushed rocks, pine trees, some forest floor and subtle smoke aromas. Very fine tannins, no hard edges, perfect amount of well-integrated acidity and some minty notes providing additional freshness. Together with the Lafleur the most elegant right bank in 2009 tonight. No over-extraction or too much ripeness. Didn’t need any decant.
Average blind score 4 tasters: 95.8
Rank: 7th out of 48 wines, (shared rank with Latour, SHL, Petrus)
Flight 6
2009 Clos l’Église (Pomerol), 93 Points
This wine didn’t play in the same league as the other Pomerols, not as complex (some cola along a lot of candied fruit and a tad minerality) and not es well-crafted with too much extraction and a tad of heat. Good length and fairly fine tannins.
Average blind score 4 tasters: 95.0
Rank: 15th out of 48 wines, (shared rank with Angelus, Pape Clement)
2009 Château Le Pin, 96 Points
Expressive, fine nose with ripe dark fruit, toast, coffee and nutty aromas. Same aromas along more red fruit aromas, some cedar aromas. Fairly complex, good delineation, medium intensity (that‘s where it is a tad behind some other wines), very fine structure with perfectly fine tannins, good freshness, good length. One of the more elegant examples and likely one of the wines with a long life. I would give it at least a few hours in the decanter if you open a bottle today.
Average blind score 4 tasters: 94.5
Rank: 22nd out of 48 wines, (shared rank with L’Evangile, Pontet Canet, Clinet)
2009 Château La Conseillante, 94 Points
Confirming my notes from a Conseillante vertical a few months back. The good finesse and very good precision are instantly apparent but not the complexity the wine showed last time. For that it would have needed more time. Better than the Clos Eglise but not on par with Hosanna and Le Pin in the same flight. With a good 5 hours in the decanter, this would for sure be up there with the 96+ points I experienced back in March.
Average blind score 4 tasters: 94.0
Rank: 27th out of 48 wines, (shared rank with Rauzan Segla)
Day Two
Flight 1
2009 Domaine de Chevalier, 93 Points
Dark, ripe but not overripe fruit, roasted herb, some crushed rock on the nose. Same aromas along some crushed rocks and some red fruit on the palate. Round, suave with just slightly dry tannins. Not overly complex nor long but makes a lot of fun to drink. One that can be opened now, even without a long decant.
Average blind score 4 tasters: 93.3
Rank: 33th out of 48 wines
2009 Château Haut-Bailly, 92 Points
Candied dark fruit, cassis liquor and a good fresh component on the nose. The palate has plenty of fine but still noticeable tannins and displays red and dark fruit, quite ripe and some roasted herbs and a mineral component. Medium+ length, medium- complexity showing. Slightly less interesting than the Issan or Domaine de Chevalier drank alongside but I guess this just would have needed 4+ hours in the decanter.
Average blind score 4 tasters: 92.3
Rank: 37th out of 48 wines, (shared rank with Pavie Decesse)
2009 Château d’Issan, 93 Points
Surprisingly the winner in this flight with Haut Bailly, Lafite and Domaine de Chevalier. The first sniff reveals a potpourri of ripe, candied dark fruit, clean, intense. On the palate a equally intense mineral component (graphite?) builds a good counterpoint to all the dark fruit. Not the most complex wine but intensity and precision on a good level. Very velvety, slightly noticable tannins which need some more time to integrate, very good freshness, best length of the flight. This doesn‘t need a long decant, 2+ hours would be ok.
Average blind score 4 tasters: 92.5
Rank: 35th out of 48 wines, (shared rank with Clos Manou)
2009 Château Lafite Rothschild, 90 Points
Lots of wood along some dark fruit dominates the nose. Same picture on the palate with a not (yet) integrated oak component, pure dark fruit, with some swirling some Bordeaux barnyard stink, mint and minerality. Overall tight and muted with lots of not integrated tannins, hard edges but a good freshness (as all left banks). This was consensus the weakest wine in the flight with Issan, Haut Bailly and Domaine de Chevalier. I wouldn‘t yet throw it into the bin as the wine was not decanted. Probably 10 more years (or a 10h decant today) will reveal more potential. But this wine was not a lot of joy to drink.
Average blind score 4 tasters: 91.8
Rank: 41st out of 48 wines
Flight 2
2009 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou, 94 Points
Dark, some barnyard and some spices on the fresh nose. Dark and blue fruit and crushed rocks on the palate. Very good freshness but still lots of tannins with still some edges. Overall like all St. Juliens still in a sleepy phase, a bit austere with some edges. Nevertheless, I like the cool, fresh, blue profile hinting at all the potential. 5+ hours of decanting if you pop a bottle today.
Average blind score 4 tasters: 93.5
Rank: 31st out of 48 wines, (shared rank with Leoville Barton)
2009 Château Léoville Las Cases, 95 Points
Muted nose with dark, some red fruit and some smoke. First palate experience rather disjointed but then got better by the minute, so much ripe dark fruit, but blue and red fruits too, herbal aromas too. Round and velvety tannins still noticeable, amazing freshness, very good length. At first rather 91/92 but quickly up to 94/, 95 Points. Overall like all St. Juliens still in a sleepy phase, a bit austere with some edges. 5+ hours of decanting if you pop a bottle today.
Average blind score 4 tasters: 95.3
Rank: 13th out of 48 wines, (shared rank with Leoville Poyferre)
2009 Château Léoville Poyferré, 96 Points
The best St. Julien today and probably overall. The wine has the same cool, fresh fruit profile as the other St. Juliens but is the least austere with a sweetness to balance all the freshness and cool style. So it‘s a perfect expression of a cool, fresh, elegant Bordeaux without the seductiveness of a Margaux or good Pauillac but great in it‘s own way. And more importantly, good to drink right now. Medium complexity but with great precision embedded in a very fine tannin structure and with a good length. A 2+ hours decant should be enough.
Average blind score 4 tasters: 95.3
Rank: 13th out of 48 wines, (shared rank with Leoville Las Cases)
2009 Château Léoville Barton, 94 Points
Muted nose, more open on the palate with very fresh, pure black and blue fruit, with time red fruit, herbs and pine tree. Probably the most austere St. Julien today with velvety tannins still quite noticeable, good freshness and length just hinting its potential. Will be better once round and soft with that very alluring aromatic profile and depth. If you pop a bottle today give it a long 5+ hours decant.
Average blind score 4 tasters: 93.5
Rank: 31st out of 48 wines, (shared rank with Ducru Beaucaillou)
Chateau Palmer won the group score
Flight 3
2009 Château Brane-Cantenac, 95 Points
Cassis liquor, roasted herbs as the main aromas. Some earth aromas and hints of herbs showing. Seductive, round, smooth, ready to drink and lots of fun. Like all Margaux this Brane was shining bright with its completeness, despite the fact it not the most complex wine. Good length, prefect intensity, perfectly integrated tannins and good freshness. No decanting needed.
Average blind score 4 tasters: 94.8
Rank: 18th out of 48 wines, (shared rank with Montrose, Ausone, Beausejour Duffau)
2009 Château Rauzan-Ségla, 95 Points
Loads of cassis and cocoa aromas, the most herbal expression of all Margauxs, some stems, some green notes but as a feature not fault, in addition some nice minerality. The nose was at first a bit muted but opened up nicely. Good to drink today with a very round mouthfeel, fine tannins and a good freshness, medium intense and medium+ length. Still, this Rauzan isn’t as clean, pure, elegant and sophisticated as the more recent vintages. We’re definitely in a new era here and Rauzan will shine with its 2012, 2015, 2016 and 2018 vintage. This was very nice and worth the, 95 Points (with not much upside, though). No extensive decanting needed.
Average blind score 4 tasters: 94.0
Rank: 27th out of 48 wines, (shared rank with La Conseillante)
2009 Château Palmer, 98 Points
Oh boy, this was good! Probably the purest, softest, most elegant and sophisticated of all Bordeauxs we’ve tried in this tasting. A rainbow of well-defined red, blue and black fruits. Very complex, so fresh and nicely intense. In addition, floral aromas and at best just some slight hints of oak aromas (with some vanilla). The wine has a strong sense of place with loads of minerality which nicely counterbalances the ripe but not sweet fruit. The tannins are ultra-fine, the finest of all. The freshness is impeccable and the wine is very long. The complete package. This could well age into a perfect wine once the tertiary aromas kick-in. All the components of greatness are there. For me one of the top wines slightly behind the Margaux (but just today). The best of the more classic, elegant, fresh wines defying the rather hot vintage and the oaky-theme of that decade (ahead of Lafleur, Trotanoy, Hosanna, Latour). Didn’t need any decanting but some air wouldn’t hurt either.
Average blind score 4 tasters: 98.3
Rank: 1st out of 48 wines
2009 Château Margaux, 99 Points
The nose is exploding out of the glass with ripe dark fruits and lots of intense and highly precise wood aromas of cocoa, coffee, caramelized nuts, some floral hints. Same intense and so well-delineated aromas on the palate with additional aromas of burnt sugar, more diverse dark berries, some red fruit and earthy and cedar aromas. Very complex, very intense, very precise and very long. All this is perfectly integrated in a unbelievably soft structure with the finest tannins and a perfect acidity keeping it just fresh enough. This is a slightly slutty wine, very hedonistically appealing but still with enough finesse and earthy characteristics to be identified as a Bordeaux. Probably not a typical Margaux as some remarked but still great. Big difference to the Palmer drank alongside, which shines with its purity and innocence. Both wines among the absolute top wines of all 2009 and in my opinion, the Margaux topped them all (and we tasted all big names from both sides). Better and likely with a longer life than the Cheval Blanc which is roughly in the same category (style-wise). However, I think that one or the other wine (think Lafleur, Palmer, Haut Brion, Hosanna, Trotanoy) might age a bit more gracefully. No extensive decanting needed.
Average blind score 4 tasters: 97.3
Rank: 3th out of 48 wines, (shared rank with Mouton Rothschild)
Flight 4
2009 Château Smith Haut Lafitte, 95 Points
Hyper-intensive nose with loads of cassis with some additional aromas of roasted coffee beans and candied sugar. On the palate much more red fruit apparent. The longer it sit in the glass the more outgoing, voluptuous and hedonistic it became with more candied fruit and roasted aromas. Very good structural frame. Everything is soft and round with a good enough freshness. Medium length. At the start rather 93/94, later rather 95/96. It probably doesn’t have the complexity to play in the big league and get to the 100 Parker points but still a great vintage for SHL. 1-2 hours decant should be enough if you pop a bottle today.
Average blind score 4 tasters: 95.8
Rank: 7th out of 48 wines, (shared rank with Latour, Petrus, Hosanna)
2009 Château La Mission Haut-Brion, 95 Points
While the Pape Clement and Smith Haut Lafitte are ready to go, this is still not fully open for business. The bouquet was not fully open but not muted either displaying pure, cool dark fruit aromas, a lot of fresh herbs and complex mineral compound. Intensity seems very good and there is a laser-like focus. The tannin structure still shows some edges (not like the St. Juliens but it still needs some more years). Good freshness and length. Overall, quite enjoyable thanks to the purity and complexity and certainly with more upside than the SHL and Pape Clement. 95++ points here.
Average blind score 4 tasters: 93.8
Rank: 29th out of 48 wines, (shared rank with Troplong Mondot)
2009 Château Pape Clément, 95 Points
Very dark fruit, one of the darkest fruit expressions of all wines. On the palate the wine gets nuttier (and sluttier) by the minute with loads of well-defined oak aromas mixing with the dark fruit and minerality. Not the most complex wine but still great to drink today as it is round and soft but still fresh. 95/, 96 Points for sure. Lots of fun to drink this wine today, even without an extended decant (one hour should be enough).
Average blind score 4 tasters: 95.0
Rank: 15th out of 48 wines, (shared rank Clos L’Eglise, Angelus)
2009 Château Haut-Brion, 89 Points
This bottle didn’t hit the mark. Probably an off bottle with very ripe fruit, smoked fruit, slightly lactic (some said even metallic). You could see some potential here but in no way the Haut Brion I had a year ago (with 8 hours of decanting) which was an absolute masterpiece that I’m sure off will reach a perfect score once mature (rated 98+ points, see tasting note).
Average blind score 4 tasters: 92.0
Rank: 39th out of 48 wines, (shared rank with Bellevue Mondotte)
Chateau Mouton Rothschild and Chateau Margaux completed the podium
Flight 5
2009 Château Latour Grand Vin, 96 Points
This Latour only hinted its potential and still needs some time to fully open up. The structure is already there with the finest tannins and a perfect acidity. At first a bit muted, the aromas came more and more forward with a bit of swirling. Fresh, pure red and dark fruits, lots of minerality, smoke, pine tree, fine oak aromas with some roasted almonds. Absolutely weightless and pure elegance. Once fully open revealing its hedonistic side, this could trump them all thanks to the complexity, intensity, tension and weightlessness. A great wine in the making. , 96 Points with upside to become a perfect wine and for sure in the 98 to 100 point. Certainly, one of the more long-lived wines too. Only Palmer and probably Lafleur played in the same category in terms of purity and elegance with Palmer being more open than the others.
Average blind score 4 tasters: 95.8
Rank: 7th out of 48 wines, (shared rank with SHL, Petrus, Hosanna)
2009 Château Mouton Rothschild, 98 Points
A wow wine! And for me better than all 12 vintages of Mouton I had so far. Intense nose with burnt sugar, dark fruit, cedar and coffee. Same aromas on the palate with pencil shavings and herbs complementing the bouquet. Perfect, fine tannins, soft and fresh. So round and well balanced. Not as slutty as other style-wise similar wines like the Margaux and especially the Cheval. Sophistication and sluttiness go hand in hand with this wine. Great focus, great length, very good complexity and just a pure joy to drink today.
Average blind score 4 tasters: 97.3
Rank: 3th out of 48 wines, (shared rank with Margaux)
2009 Château Pontet-Canet, 94 Points
I had this wine before and was a big fan (, 97 Points). This bottle just showed hints of what is possible. Certainly, one of the more red-fruit driven left bank wines with lots of strawberries. In addition, herbs and Pauillac graphite. Soft and round, fresh and balance but overall, not that open and expressive. It needs one or the other hour in the decanter (2-4h for sure) and it will sing. Do I see it get to the perfect score of Parker? Not sure. Probably not as complex enough but still a great wine which can reach the 97/98 point range…
Average blind score 4 tasters: 94.5
Rank: 22nd out of 48 wines, (shared rank with L’Evangile, Le Pin, Clinet)
2009 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron, 91 Points
This was the most closed and muted Pauillac in the lineup. Quite austere and not much fun to drink. Dark candied fruit, lots of cedar but the complexity is still masked by the austere structure with not yet perfectly integrated tannins. Good freshness. Either this wasn’t a representative bottle or it would have just needed a long decant. Based on this bottle I would decant it at least for 8 hours.
Average blind score 4 tasters: 93.0
Rank: 34th out of 48 wines
Flight 6
2009 Château Montrose, 95 Points
I had this wine before and never got as excited as many others. While you sense that there is more the wine still needs a lot of time to soften and show all the nuances which might be there. This bottle was probably the best one so far as it showed a nicely sweet long finish which represented I nice counterpoint to the still slightly muted and austere body. Nose, however, is not yet open for business. If you open a bottle today, give it at least 8 hours in the decanter!
Average blind score 4 tasters: 94.8
Rank: 18th out of 48 wines, (shared rank with Ausone, Brane Cantenac, Beausejour Duffau)
2009 Château Cos d’Estournel, 93 Points
I liked the red fruit and spice character which is quite unique and made this standout among the other left banks. In addition, herbal notes and a sexy nuttiness. Highlight probably the very long and spicy finish. Good structure, less austere than Montrose but a bit too alcoholic for my taste. As one of the very rare left banks it showed its alcohol a bit (vs right bank wines where this was a problem in a lot of wines). Overall good but I doubt it will reach greatness (and the I can’t imagine how it could ever get to the perfect score from Parker).
Average blind score 4 tasters: 94.3
Rank: 26th out of 48 wines
2009 Château Calon-Ségur, 90 Points
Probably the weakest left bank wine tasted. A bit too fat, a bit too ripe fruit but also some green tannins. 90 is probably even a too generous score. The 2018 is definitely on another level with an outer-worldly complexity but same as with the 2009 (which is from another era and pre-investments phase) I doubt that the high alcohol level can ever be fully masked.
Average blind score 4 tasters: 91.3
Rank: 43th out of 48 wines
2009 Clos Manou, 90 Points
The nose was on a very good (, 94 Points) level with ripe fruit, roasted herbs and almonds. On the palate a below 90 point experience with alcohol and acidity not in balance. Not one to chase but not entirely bad either.
Average blind score 4 tasters: 92.5
Rank: 35th out of 48 wines, (shared rank with d’Issan)
Author: Andy Schnyder
June 2019