The last time I was in Jura the weather was capricious and the vignerons were working overtime in the field to apply treatments against mildew. It was difficult to get visits or they got cancelled last minute. Luckily Domaine Berthaut-Bondet in Chateau-Chalon offered me a time slot to walk me through their portfolio and show me the cellars where their famous Vin Jaune is maturing sous voile.
History and Ownership
The domaine has an interesting past. For over 50 years this historic manor property in Château-Chalonhas hat not been producing wine, until in 1984, Chantal and Jean Berthet-Bondet took it over and revitalized it. Jean cam from plastic manufacturing and added an agronomic degree in Mompellier where he met Chantal. He also worked with Macle, the legendary Vin Jaune producers. They restored the 16th-century cellar and, by 1986, had installed a winery in the grange, followed by the construction of a 400-square-meter aging cellar in 1987 . The estate has been organic since 2010 (certified 2013), reflecting a long-standing commitment to sustainable viticulture. In 2013, their daughter, Hélène Berthet-Bondet, an oenologist, joined the family business and took over its management in 2018. Under her leadership, the estate continues to uphold traditional methods while adapting to modern challenges. Hélène emphasizes the need for precision and adaptability in viticulture.
Domaine Berthet-Bondet now cultivates 15 hectares of vineyards (starting with 3 only), with 4.5 hectares in the Château-Chalon appellation and 10.5 hectares in the Côtes du Jura. The primary grape varieties include Savagnin (45%) and Chardonnay (40%), along with the red varieties Trousseau, Poulsard, and Pinot Noir.
Chateau Chalon with its vineyards, Domaine Berthet-Bondet in the middle picture
The Portfolio
Berthet-Bondet is well know for their traditional wines (two thirds of their portfolio is sous voile) and of course their Vin Jaune, but they have a very organized portfolio. On their website the wine portfolio is nicely structured into the typical Jura categories, easy to understand and supplemented with technical information such as soil type, vinification and aging method. Samples of the soil types are on display in the tasting room, see picture below. I am usually not a fan when wineries change labels or create new ones. It confuses consumers, but I found the changes here to be very well thought through and optically attractive as they kept the traditional part of the label on the top and the bottom and introduced beautiful watercolor paintings in the middle. The label of the most traditional oxidative wins like the Vin Jaune and Jura Tradition are completely unchanged. The newer wines, the experiments, or shall we say the fun stuff, have new labels with the watercolor themes in the middle. Have a look below, delightful.
The domaine portfolio with the chic watercolor labels
Tasting Notes
Crémant
NV Domaine Berthet-Bondet Crémant du Jura Rosé, 90 Points
Rosé blend of 70% Poulsard, 20% Pinot Noir, 10% Trousseau. Clay-limestone soils. Rosé de saignée. Base vintage 2023. 6g/L dosage. Aged 12 months on lees. 11% alc. This attractively dry Crémant Rosé is a saignée blend of the Jura’s three red varieties, offering up aromas of crushed strawberries, rose petals, and a hint of spice. On the palate, it’s brisk and phenolic, with a pleasing dryness that counters the tendency toward sweetness seen in many rosé sparklers. A lively, refreshing aperitif with a firm sense of place.
Reds
2023 Domaine Berthet-Bondet Côtes du Jura à la Forge, 91 Points
100% Trousseau. Clay-limestone soils. Three-day maceration. No oak. 12.5% alc. Light, fragrant and transparently colored, this varietal Trousseau reveals scents of earth, bright red berries, and a wisp of wild herbs. There’s a savory, gently funky edge that adds intrigue, and its delicately framed structure makes it immensely drinkable. Reminiscent of Poulsard in its finesse, this is a charming summer red that rewards casual sipping as well as contemplation.
2023 Domaine Berthet-Bondet Côtes du Jura Trio, 91 Points
Blend of 60% Trousseau, 20% Poulsard, 20% Pinot Noir. Limestone colluvium and red marl soils. No oak. 13% alc. Aromatic and lifted, this blend of Jura’s three red grapes opens with notes of raspberries, pink peppercorn, and peony. The palate is light-bodied and finely etched, but not without substance, hinting at latent depth – that might shine even more with a touch of oak élevage? Still, it’s delicious as is -vibrant and engaging, with real personality. 91+
Non-oxidative whites
2023 Domaine Berthet-Bondet Côtes du Jura La Source, 89 Points
70% Chardonnay, 30% Savagnin. Clay-limestone soils. No oak. 13% alc. A bright and fruit-driven blend, this cuvée delivers gentle aromas of citrus blossom, orchard fruit, and white flowers. It’s a pleasant, accessible expression, leaning more toward florality than structure. While fans of reductive Chardonnay (like myself) may crave more tension, this remains a well-made, easy-drinking white.
2022 Domaine Berthet Bondet Côtes du Jura Savagnier, 90 Points
Savagnin ouillé. Triassic marl soils. No oak. 13% alc. Branded “Savagnier” to distinguish it from the domaine’s oxidative Savagnin bottling, this is a taut, linear wine with bright acidity and a saline backbone. Notes of green apple, crushed stone, and lime zest are underpinned by lovely energy. A natural partner for shellfish or soft cheese.
2022 Domaine Berthet-Bondet Savagnin Côtes du Jura l’Acacia, 91 Points
100% Savagnin. Triassic marl soils. Aged 18 months in 80% acacia and 20% oak. 13% alc. Vinified in predominantly acacia barrels, which impart a subtler influence than oak, this distinctive Savagnin is floral and expressive, with aromas of yellow apple, fennel, and chamomile. Fresh and crystalline on the palate, it’s a graceful expression of the grape – less about power than perfume.
2023 Domaine Berthet-Bondet Côtes du Jura La Poirière, 90 Points
Chardonnay from iridescent Triassic marl soils. 12.5% alc. Aged 18 months with bâtonnage; 10% new oak. This floral, mineral-driven Chardonnay is light on its feet and quietly complex. Hints of mint, star anise, and white flowers rise from the glass, leading into a supple, elegant palate framed by subtle oak. It’s a delicately styled wine, long on charm and nuance.
Cathy Laillet took me through the tasting and terroir intricacies
Oxidative whites
2022 Domaine Berthet-Bondet Côtes du Jura A Fleur de Voile, 92 Points
Savagnin from gravelly marl. 13% alc. Aged 9 months sous voile. Drawn from barrels that could have become Château-Chalon, but bottled after 9 months, this lightly oxidative Savagnin offers a restrained and elegant gateway into sous voile winemaking. Aromas of yellow orchard fruit, dried herbs, and subtle nuttiness segue into a taut, savory palate that’s dry but not austere – ideal for those new to the style.
2021 Domaine Berthet-Bondet Côtes du Jura Tradition Blanc, 93 Points
60% Chardonnay, 40% Savagnin. Gravelly marl. Aged two years sous voile. 13% alc. A classic Jura blend, this is a textbook Tradition: saline, nutty, and redolent of cut apple, walnut, and iodine. The oxidative element is more pronounced here, drawing comparisons to fine Manzanilla. But there’s ample freshness to balance the sherry-like aromas, making this a compelling and food-friendly wine.
2019 Domaine Berthet-Bondet Savagnin Côtes du Jura, 93 Points
100% Savagnin. Jurassic marl. Aged 3 years sous voile. 15% alc. A step deeper into oxidative expression, this full-bodied Savagnin is vivid with notes of curry leaf, walnut skin, and preserved lemon. Bracing acidity gives it drive and lift, and the added time under flor has imbued it with even greater savory complexity. A striking, assertive Jura white.
2017 Domaine Berthet-Bondet Château-Chalon, 95 Points
Savagnin. Liassic marl. Aged 6 years sous voile. 15.5% alc. From one of the appellation’s iconic terroirs, this is a brilliant Château-Chalon: layered and intense, with aromas of mushroom, toasted walnut, curry, and dried resins. Despite its aromatic power, it retains appropriate freshness on the palate, where a racy acidity supports a long, savory finish. One of the Jura’s great vinous experiences. Make sure you have the Comté ready when opening this.
The cellar where the sous voile aging quietly happens – currently being expanded/refurbished
This was a wonderful and informative session and I recommend to visit this property during their published opening hours. Also I should mention, I was able to buy wine here including some serious back vintages on their Vin Jaune. What’s not to like?
Autor: Christian Raubach, WSET3, FWS, WSG Champagne Master
June 2025