Bérêche & Fils, a Champagne grower located in the Montagne de Reims, has become one of the most exciting rising stars in the region. Their Champagne came onto my radar in 2021 when I tasted their base cuvée the Brut Reserve together with a wine friend and we were both blown away. It remains to date my preferred base Cuvée of any producer.
The estate, founded in 1847, experienced a renaissance in 2004 when brothers Raphaël and Vincent Bérêche joined their father, Jean-Pierre, bringing a fresh perspective and dynamic energy. Raphaël primarily oversees winemaking and serves as the domaine’s public face, while Vincent focuses on vineyard management and viticulture. Their are based in Ludes, Montage de Reims. Viticulture and winemaking are of course top standard with lower yields, biodynamic practices, massal selection, like you see in top Burgundy estates and it shows in their wines. We are talking vinous, complex, low dosage champagnes.
Bérêche Champagnes have, no surprise, had a meteoric rise in the recent years with thier top Cuvées Le Cran, Reflet d’Antan (solera-style blend) Mailly and Ay. Antonio Galloni calls Raphaël and Vincent’s Champagnes “among the very best readers will come across,” adding that he buys the wines “whenever I see them”. We were therefore delighted to be able to fetch a visit to the Domaine in our post-Covid Champagne trip. Raphael was very generous with his time on a late Friday afternoon, going through almost all of his Cuvées and converting each of us into Bérêche fans.
Wines tasted during the visit
2019 Bérêche et Fils Coteaux Champenois Les Monts Fournois, 91 Points
A still white wine to kick off the tasting. Lots of gooseberry and citrus aromas here, very expressive, apparently ph is 2.25 (!) but the wine is not lean, more like a blend of a Chablis Grand Cru and a NZ Sauvignon Blanc. This wine confirmed that the vin clair material this house produces is first class.
2017 Bérêche et Fils Champagne Rive Gauche, 95 Points
First line in the wine up and a winner. Rich, earthy, red fruit, and some Bakery notes. Wonderful Valle de Marne style, 100% Meunier.
2017 Bérêche et Fils Champagne Premier Cru Les Beaux Regards, 94 Points
After the Vallee de Marne Rive Gauche, we are clearly in BdB territory. Citrus, pear, very aromatic wine here as well, precise with good length. Best after 2027. 94+
2017 Bérêche et Fils Champagne Campania Remensis Rosé, 93 Points
Not a rose fan but this is lovely with lovely cherries, tobacco, bruised apples and lovely bitterness counterbalancing the dosage.
NV Bérêche et Fils Champagne Brut Réserve, 95 Points
Several encounters with this confirmed that Bereche’s NV is a contender for the best base NV cuvee in the market. It has a medium golden color with an light orange hue. The nose is spicy and fragrant with red flowers, citrus, strawberry and pastry. It is also testimony to the quality of this wine that Raphael is showing this wine late in the line-up.
NV Bérêche et Fils Champagne Reflet d’Antan, 96 Points
This showed particularly well during this tasting. Very vinous, white flowers, acacia, slightly oxidative like the Selosse style but not too much. Better than the 2012 I recently had.
2014 Bérêche et Fils Champagne Premier Cru Le Cran, 96 Points
Wow, elegant, spicy, light and elegant, a A dancer on the palate with citrus brioche and orchard fruit. Much less oxidative than the 2010 I recently had. Great showing we all agreed.
Wines tasted on other occasions
2012 Bérêche et Fils Champagne Premier Cru Le Cran, 99 Points
3g dosage, Dark yellow. Expressive nose with enormous richness without being overboard. Full throttle, tons of spices, red apples, earthy elements. Fresh, fry finish. I like the balance here on a very high tightrope. 98-100
2013 Bérêche et Fils Champagne Premier Cru Le Cran, 98 Points
3g dosage, Dark yellow. Expressive nose, oxidative, rich, bruised apples, lots of spices, full throttle, on the palate dry with pronounced phenolics and high, bracing acidity accompanying it. Give this till 2033. Top.
2008 Bérêche et Fils Champagne Premier Cru Le Cran, 97 Points
Wonderful nose here with pinot spice, red apples, very Selosse style aromas and density, oxidative without the Sherry spectrum. Very dense palate, generous and dry, typical grower style. Very grand showing of Bérêche.
2017 Bérêche et Fils Champagne Reflet d’Antan, 97 Points
DG22. From MAG. Absolutely stunning, so fragrant, not oxidative but nice aged notes of subtle cut apples and grapefruit, white flowers, brioche, yellow fruit. Simply wonderful.
Author: Christian Raubach, WSET III, FWS, WSG Champagne Master
December 2021