The 2008 vintage
Our recent tasting brought together an exceptional selection of 2008 Barolo and some Barbaresco, offering a valuable opportunity to revisit this now well-settled vintage from Piedmont. The 2008 growing season was marked by a cool and rather classic climate, with a long vegetation cycle. Purists might call 2008 one of the very few true cool vintages of the last two decades and it yielded a style of wine Nebbiolo lovers treasure. A wet spring and early summer delayed ripening, but fine weather in September and October allowed Nebbiolo to reach full maturity while preserving freshness due to the cool nights. The vintage produced wines of notable aromatic finesse, balanced structure, and moderate alcohol, with a perfect streak of acidity adding even more precision. Today, the 2008s stand out for their elegance and purity rather than sheer power—wines with precise tannins, lifted acidity, and complex, savory depth that reflect both vineyard and commune character with admirable transparency. While the 2008 were drinking surprisingly well early on, now they are really beginning to shine.
Barolo and Barbaresco, though neighbors and both famous for the noble Nebbiolo grape, express distinctly different personalities shaped by geology and microclimate. Barolo, often broader and more structured, shows the contrasts of its communes vividly, from La Morra with generally softer structures, more perfumed and floral, red fruited personalities to the other end of the spectrum, Serralunga with darker tonalities, notes of tar, black tea, pine and leather and authoritative tannic structures. And it’s exactly in these cooler but very good vintages where the transparency to terroir really shows, which was again confirmed in this tasting. Many of the participants were very impressed by the sheer diversity of wines produced from 100% Nebbiolo and from a relatively small region with so many different Crus and microclimates. Besides the Barolos we also had two excellent Barbarescos and one wine from a top tier producer in the Northern part of Piemonte (the appellation of “Boca”) to round out the flights. 2008 was less consistent in Barbaresco than in Barolo, but the wines showed very well and reflected the vintage with cooler aromatics and finesse perfectly.
One of the key takeaways was, that 2008 might be one of the very best vintages for Nebbiolo purists, showing beautifully aromatic, with great freshness and tension and excellent transparency to terroir. The quality of the tannin was very good and the structure and depth might be a little lighter than 2010 or the more recent great vintages 2016 and 2021, more similar maybe to the other top tier cooler vintages of 2013 or 2019 but less austere, at least at this stage.
As always, we tasted the wines blind in flights of 3 wines. At the end of the tasting, we voted on the group’s top 5 wines.
The wines tasted
Aperitif
Pehu-Simonet Champagne Brut Grand Cru “Face Nord” (Magnum), 92 points
We kicked off the tasting with a very nice bottle of grower’s Champagne. Pehu-Simonet is one of the producers that has recently caught my attention. I find that their wines show a nice combination of both richness and tension. The Face Nord is from 75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay from north-facing vineyards (“face nord”) in the Montagne de Reims. The grapes originate from all Grand Cru locations in Verzenay, Verzy, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and Sillery. The wine spends 2 years on the lees and was bottled with a dosage of 5g.
Nicely expressive, with notes of red cherries, but also citrus, smokey minerality, some herbal notes, too. Medium-full bodied, with nicely integrated small bubbles, there is medium-high acidity adding nice tension and just the right amount of dosage (5g) adding a slight creaminess and charme. Lovely.
Flight 1
1.) Damilano Barolo Cinquevigne 2008, Barolo/La Morra, 88 points
I sometimes struggle a little with the Damilano wines. While they are often charming and radiant, I barely ever find them truly fascinating. This was no exception. Slightly oxidative, a touch of chinato, but also red fruit, some berries, slightly floral, cedar wood, some dried flowers. Medium bodied, with medium-high acidity and some medium tannin that is a touch drying. Not sure how the house style was back then, but this seemed a little dried out, maybe from oak. Medium length. This was a little controversial at the table. Some found it slightly flawed (maybe TCA), I thought it was oak.
2.) Pio Cesare Barolo 2008, Serralunga d’Alba et al., 89 points
From this pretty famous producer and a variety of vineyards First pretty oxidative, but blowing off a little, one of the weird things about Nebbiolo. Later showing nice darker fruit, some plum, also some cedar, tea, some tar, notes of loveage also hinting at that this might have been better a few years ago. Medium-full bodied, slightly drying tannin. Medium length. A middle of the road Barolo.
3.) Atilio Ghisolfi Barolo Riserva Fantini 2008, Monforte d’Alba, 92 points
From a sandy parcel in the large Bussia MGA. Unfortunately, this vineyard was victim of a landslide and had to be fully replanted. Nicely red fruited, cherries, some strawberries, also slightly floral, some tobacco leaf, cedar wood. Medium-full bodied, with pretty high acidity and medium-high tannin that is good quality. Nice length. For me clearly the best wine in flight 1 and with potential to develop further.
Flight 2
4.) Produttori del Barbaresco, Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà 2008, Barbaresco, 93+ points
From this legendary producer / cooperative. Rabajà is considered one of the very best Crus in Barbaresco and can craft wines of excellent complexity, great structure and ageability.
Slightly closed, but opening up a little with more air. This seems still young. Red but also darker red fruit showing up, some floral notes, mint, also some black tea. Medium-bodied, with medium-high tannin that is very good quality, beautiful medium-high acidity and good length. Still pretty young, but very good potential. This vintage is more built on freshness and elegance here than power and body.
5.) Brezza Barolo Bricco Sarmassa 2008, Barolo, 95 points
This is from the top vineyard of this excellent super traditional producer in Barolo.
First a slight cellar smell that blew off quickly. Nicely aromatic, with spices, but also some darker sweet fruit, also some graphite minerality, blueberries, also some violet floral notes. Overall nice complexity. Medium-full bodied, with superb freshness of high acidity, overall very classic and beautiful in expression. Pretty long finish. I liked this a lot.
6.) Gaja Barbaresco 2008, Barbaresco, 94 points
From the legendary Angelo Gaja. He was one of the very few pioneers who put Barbaresco on the map, together maybe with Produttori del Barbaresco, Bruno Giacosa and a few others. This wine was a little controversial, some of the group found it a little too light. I liked it for what it is, an elegant, medium-bodied Barbaresco with nice transparency and finesse.
Nicely aromatic, with floral notes of violets and rose petals, super elegant, red and darker berries, but also superb finesse, there are layers without weight. Medium bodied, with very good depth and medium-high tannin and acidity. Very good length. Maybe not the most complex wine of the tasting, but the mouthfeel and texture was really good.
Flight 3
7.) Brovia Barolo Rocche di Castiglione 2008, Castiglione Falletto, 96+ points
From this excellent traditional producer in Castiglione. Rocche is one of the very best Crus in Castiglione, and this was really singing.
Darker red berries, some sweet and sour red fruit, but then also floral notes of violets, some rose petals, mint, but also darker mineral notes of some graphite, tar that are contrasting beautifully with the brighter fruit. Medium-full bodied, with superb elegance and great finesse, some medium-high silky tannin, medium-high acidity and excellent length. This is showing superb complexity and is getting better and better with air. Superb. The group loved this, too. Group WOTN No. 2
8.) Le Piane, Boca 2008, Northern Piedmont, 95 points
This was a mini pirate, as it is neither from Barbaresco nor from Barolo, but Northern Piedmont. There is 85% Nebbiolo and 15% Vespolina. It seemed a little riper than some of the other wines in the lineup. Darker in tonality, but also with a touch more ripeness and approachability, with also notes of spices, sweet black cherries, dark plum, sweet mentholated notes. Medium-full bodied, with very good finesse, nicely balanced tannin adding grip and pretty high acidity. Long finish. Excellent.
9.) Brovia, Barolo Villero 2008, Castiglione Falletto, 93 points
From this excellent producer and another highly regarded Cru. A little less thrilling than the Brovia Rocche, which is often the case in my experience. This is built more on earthy notes, some mushroom, wet leaves, but also some menthol, overall nice impression with darker fruit than the Rocche next to it. Medium-full bodied, with medium-high tannin that is a little rougher than Rocche, good acidity, too. Good length.
Flight 4
10.) Bartolo Mascarello Barolo 2008, Barolo/La Morra, 98 points
This is one of the reference point wines in Barolo. Bartolo’s daughter, Maria Teresa Mascarello, is crafting ultra-traditional wines of the highest level that show finesse and elegance, while being true to their origin. The grapes are from different Crus (Rocche dell’Annunziata, San Lorenzo, Cannubi, Rué). The vineyards are co-fermented, not just blended at this estate, fermentation is long and the wines are raised in large botti. Nothing is modern here, but there is impeccable attention to detail.
Superb complexity of pure red fruit, hard candy, sweet and sour berries, some mint, also violets, and rose petals, then also some tar, herbal notes, overall superbly complex. Medium-full bodied, with excellent silkiness despite the Barolo structure. There is high but integrated acidity and a long finish with superb complexity. This is all about elegance, finesse and perfume. A ballerina. Wow. Some in the group found the wine a little light, to me it was spectacular. Group WOTN No. 3
11.) Luciano Sandrone Barolo Le Vigne 2008, 97 points
Another classic from this more modern leaning producer. Also a blend of different vineyards (Vignane, Conterni, Merli, Cerretta), raised in oak tonneaux of 500l.
Explosive notes of ripe dark and red fruit, some herbal notes, voluptuous and hugging you with open arms, some notes of black tea, tar, graphite, tobacco leaves, smoke, and again super ripe darker berry fruit, but with enough structure to balance everything. Medium-full bodied, excellent persistence, with medium-high tannin and excellent depth. Long finish. Superb. Group WOTN No. 4.
12.) G. Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia 2008 (Serralunga d’Alba), 95 points
Another reference point wine in Barolo, this time from the great Francia vineyard in Serralunga and made by the legendary Roberto Conterno. This was very good, but a slight disappointment in the context of what these wines can deliver. This was, admittedly, complaining on a very high level.
Darker in tonality, black fruit, but some red berries too, tar, graphite, also some mushroom, tobacco, deep and dark, authoritative, leather, a certain austerity. Full-bodied, medium-high acidity and medium-high tannin that is a touch rougher. Good length. I would still give this another 5 years or so.
Flight 5
13.) Massolino Barolo Riserva Vignarionda (Serralunga d’Alba), 96+ points
From this benchmark producer and one of the very best Crus in Serralunga or probably the whole of Piemonte. The wine totally lived up to its reputation.
Deep, dark and powerful, with very typical Serralunga notes of pine, dark fruit, black tea, cedar wood, cigar, tar, smoke, also very good depth with full body, excellent mid-palate persistence, some medium-high acidity and medium-high tannin that is very good quality. Long finish. Still potential to get even better. Group Wine Of The Night (WOTN)
14.) Elio Grasso, Barolo Casa Mate 2008 (Monforte d’Alba), 95 points
From one of the leading producers in Monforte, from a special plot in the Ginestra Cru, traditional winemaking with elevage in large botti. Darker berries, cherries and red fruit, graphite, some tobacco leaf, menthol, dried fruit, some rumpot, also a touch of vanilla that blew off with some air. Medium-full bodied, with medium-high but good tannin, pretty high acidity. Good length. Not the best bottle I have had of, but also got better balanced with more air and still very very good. Group WOTN No. 4
15.) Elio Grasso, Barolo Riserva Rüncot 2008, Monforte d’Alba, 96 points
From another special plot in the Ginestra Cru, this is considered the “top wine” of Elio Grasso, but also made in a very different style from the Casa Mate and Gavarini Chiniera. This sees a lot of new barrique (100%) that always needs time to integrate.
At first very oaky, notes of vanilla, sweet spices, but also some underlying red and especially dark fruit, some smoke, cedar wood, cigarbox, but also again ripe and sweet dark fruit. Later also notes of menthol and sweet cooling notes. Full-bodied, with pretty high acidity and medium-high tannin. Long finish. This is still pretty oaky, but might have very good potential. There seems to be enough substance to support the integration of the barrique. A polarizing style but I have had many great bottles of Rüncot and have no doubt, that this will be great with another 5 – 10 years in the cellar.
Flight 6
16.) Azelia Barolo San Rocco 2008, Serralunga d’Alba, 96 points
From a smaller producer with long tradition in Castiglione Falletto. Luigi and Lorenzo Scavino produce single vineyard (and one “classico”) Barolos of the highest level.
Super appealing, darker and mysterious, sweet ripe dark and dark red berries, some plum, but also tar, smoke, menthol, some mint, minerality, also some cedar wood, cigar box, pine tree, some orange zest. Medium-full bodied, with medium-high acidity, some medium-high but very good tannin. Long finish with building complexity. Excellent. I like this a lot.
17.) Voerzio Barolo Riserva 10 Anni Fossati Case Nere (La Morra), 94 points
Always a polarizing producer, not because of the undeniably high quality but the very concentrated, ripe and “modern” style.
Super ripe, but not overripe, some violets, sweet candied fruit, rumpot, some deep dark, concentrated appearance, some tobacco, smoke, some sweet spices, too. Super intense, rich and powerful, with high tannin that is a little drying, some medium-high acidity. Good length. Very high quality, but for me a little much of everything.
18.) Conterno Fantino, Barolo Sori Ginestra 2008 (Monforte d’Alba), 95 points
Another producer from the decidedly new school. While the wines from that era at this estate were definitely modern, it’s always fascinating to see how well they age.
More balanced again, ripe notes of dark and dark red berries, graphite, some smoke, crushed flowers, menthol, there are also notes of cigar box. Medium-full bodied, with medium-high tannin and medium-high acidity adding grip. Long finish with plenty of complexity. Very good and stylistic middle-ground.
Massa Timorasso Sterpi 2019 (Encore), 93+ points
Golden color, almost like an orange wine. Explosive, rich and very aromatic, with notes of stone fruit, some apricot, leafy notes, but also some minerality, smoke and spices. Its medium-full bodied, has medium+ acidity and a touch of phenolic bitterness. Good length. Fascinating and a good example why Timorasso is considered one of the most fascinating white wine grapes in Italy.
Group’s Wines Of The Night
1.) Massolino Barolo Riserva Vignarionda (Serralunga d’Alba), 11 votes
2.) Brovia Barolo Rocche di Castiglione 2008, Castiglione Falletto, 10 votes
3.) Bartolo Mascarello Barolo 2008, Barolo/La Morra, 8 votes
4.) Luciano Sandrone Barolo Le Vigne 2008, 7 votes
4.) Elio Grasso, Barolo Casa Mate 2008 (Monforte d’Alba), 7 votes
Author: Markus Kumschick, WSET 3
1st November 2025