Winery visit:
This was another fascinating visit with the charismatic Lorenzo Scavino at Azelia. After the epic 2019s which are some of the very best wines I have ever tasted here, the 2020s are a worthy successor, but showing a slightly different character. While the 2019 are inherently classic in structure, depth, and possess a certain austerity, the 2020 were a little more charming, with present fruit but also nice freshness. At this early stage, the 2020 Barolos were irresistible but will in the long run be outclassed by the 2019 vintage, especially for Barolo purists. The 2020s do show very good freshness though, which was surprising as the vintage was broadly perceived as hot/warm. According to Lorenzo, after snowfall in the alps in September the temperatures dropped substantially, which led to an even ripening of Nebbiolo while the acidity could be preserved.
Azelia had a slight evolution in style over the last 15 years or so. I do remember one of my first vintages I tasted from this winery, the 1996. The wines were a mouthful of Barolo, deep and rich, but also with present oak and a level of extraction that the wines sometimes showed slightly rough tannin. Over the years, Luigi Scavino and his son Lorenzo have perfected their style. The small oak for the Barolo has disappeared over the last 10 years or so, all the Barolos are aged in large barrels (“botti”) of Slavonian, French and Austrian oak , extraction is more moderate and the wines possess a beautiful elegance and harmony now, with very polished tannin. Even if the wines are a touch lighter today, they have preserved their aromatic wealth and are very true expressions of their terroir. It’s always very fascinating to taste the different single vineyards next to each other, with the Bricco Fiasco (Castiglione Falletto) being the most perfumed and elegant, the Margheria (Serralunga d’Alba) showing deep Serralunga character and a salty mineral note, the San Rocco (Serralunga d’Alba) showing its mysterious, darker side, the Cerretta showing deep and classic Serralunga character while being elegant at the same time and the Riserva from the very old Bricco Voghera vineyard showing breathtaking depth, complexity and richness. I was always impressed by the very high attention to detail at Azelia. Today, the winery is farming the very old vineyards organically and I consider Azelia one of the very best producers of the Langhe.
The following wines were tasted:
2022 Azelia Langhe Nebbiolo, 89 points
A traditional style of Langhe Nebbiolo, made in a lighter style to accompany food and not trying to be a mini Barolo. Raised in stainless steel, made from the youngest wines (20 years) in Castiglione and Serralunga. 15’200 bottles. Notes of rose petals, some red berries, mint, also some tobacco. Lighter-medium bodied, with nice medium-high acidity and some lower tannin adding just a touch of grip. Lovely. (89)
2020 Azelia Barbera d’Alba Punta, 92 points
From the top of the hill (“punta”), right behind the winery in Castiglione Falletto. Has spent 18 months in wood, 60 year old vines. 6’700 bottles. Notes of sweet red cherries, some graphite, cedar, also some spices, there is also some deep crushed violet flavors to it. Medium-full bodied, with very good high acidity and just a touch of tannin, very good length. A very complete Barbera with stunning depth and length, with the old vines shining through.
2020 Azelia Barolo, 91 points
This is from 50 year old vines in Castligione and Serralunga, 40-45 days of maceration, 24 months in botti. 29’400 bottles and 600 Magnums. Castiglione in the nose with red berries, some rose petals, violets, also some nice red and darker berries too, a touch of tar. Serralunga in the mouth. With medium-full body, some medium-high acidity and some medium+ tannin adding grip and structure. Pretty long finish, too. A Barolo that will be ready soon and provide good drinking over the next years.
2020 Azelia Barolo Bricco Fiasco, 94 points
From Castiglione Falletto, from older vines (85 years old, planted before World War II), 5’800 bottles. This is where everything started and Bricco Fiasco was one of the first Single Cru Barolos in the region (1978, by Lorenzo’s grandfather). More sandy soil, as usual very aromatic, with red fruits, some floral notes, red cherries, some strawberries, also some crushed violets, rose petals, there is also some ferrous mineral note in the mouth. Medium-full bodied, with excellent elegance, also some pretty high acidity and medium-high tannin that is silky and excellent quality. Very long finish. An excellent Bricco Fiasco.
2020 Azelia Barolo Margheria, 94 points
Clay, more calcareous deeper soil in Serralunga d’Alba, 60 year old vines. 6’100 bottles, 520 Magnums and 60 Double Magnums. Deeper darker fruit, some dark plum, dark red cherries, some meaty, almost beef blood kind of quality. There is also an almost salty minerality to it. Notes of tar too. Medium-full bodied, with high acidity and pretty high tannin that is exceptionally silky. Long finish with plenty of tension and great complexity.
2020 Azelia Barolo San Rocco, 96 points
Also from very old vines (85 years). Blue and grey clay, the oldest clay type. 7’600 bottles, 520 Magnums and 60 Double Magnums. Deep, dark and layered, with notes of dark plum, some black cherries, licorice, also some black tea, balsamic notes, some cedar wood and tobacco leaf, and some menthol, too. It‘s full-bodied and powerful, with medium-high tannin that is perfectly silky and high acidity. Again, there are some salty mineral notes. Long finish with excellent complexity. Superb Barolo of the highest level.
2020 Azelia Barolo Cerretta, 95 points
Also from older vines, and only from the top of the hill, the rest goes into the Barolo Classico, calcareous soil, only 200m away from San Rocco. The first vintage was 2016 after waiting for 30 years, until the vines had the expected age to truly reflect the terroir. 3’600 bottles, 350 Magnums and 50 Double Magnums. More finessed and elegant than the San Rocco, but with maybe a little less depth. Needs a little extra time in barrels. This is showing notes of darker red berries, cinnamon, some Asian spices, umami, also some orange zest, cedar, tobacco. Pretty full-bodied, with high acidity and high tannin that needs some time to integrate. Very good overall balance and still elegant on a bigger frame. Good length too. (95)
2014 Azelia Barolo Riserva Bricco Voghera, 97 points
From over 95 year old vines in a top “monopole” location, spent 5 years in botti and 5 years in bottle before release. Due to the challenging vintage conditions, the cost of production were double, to make 35% less wine… The result is stunning though. Very deep, layered and complex, this is showing signs of the super old vines, with amazing depth and complexity without being super heavy. Not a lighter wine by any means, but there is a beautiful harmony and balance of all components. Notes of red and darker berries, graphite, cedar wood, tar, some crushed violets, black tea, some pine, but also spices, dried leaves, truffle. It‘s pretty full-bodied, with high bracing acidity and high tannin that is very good quality, especially in the challenging vintage. Long finish with superb complexity.
Markus Kumschick, WSET III
June 2024