Max Gerstl, the pioneering importer of German Riesling and founder of Swiss wine merchant Gerstl Weinselektionen, opened his private cellar for an extraordinary tasting of aged sweet German Rieslings, ranging from Spätlese to Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA). The opportunity to experience a comprehensive lineup of mature German Rieslings side by side was one I could not pass up. This tasting offered a rare chance to explore how these wines evolve over 30+ years and to compare their character across different vineyards. The event was amazing. The majority of the wines fell into the Auslese GK category, and they demonstrated their extraordinary capacity for graceful aging. Predictably, the wines had retained their hallmark structure, with the sweetness mellowing over time, allowing more nuanced notes of dried fruits to emerge. These were beautifully complemented by the signature, electrifying Riesling acidity that keeps these wines remarkably fresh even after decades in the cellar.
As someone who is not particularly inclined toward sweet wines, I remain convinced that Riesling reigns supreme in the vin liquoreux category, outshining Sauternes and Tokaji. Its balance of residual sugar and piercing acidity lends an unrivaled freshness and vitality that other sweet wines, however noble, seldom achieve.
Tasting Notes
Flight 1
1964 Karthäuserhof Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Kronenberg Riesling Feinste Auslese, 93 Points
Dark amber. Light mushroom and musty notes on the nose, clearly showing patina but no oxidation. The palate is still lovely, only lightly sweet with dried fruit and apricot.
1969 Von Schubert Maximin Grünhäuser Herrenberg Riesling Feinste Auslese, 89 Points
Feinste Auslese is a term that is no longer in use in according to the new rules of the AOP but it means that the winery has selected a few barrels as being superior than others. Medium amber. Clearly wtih some botritis here, saffron notes, nutty with light sherry notes. A little too “Sauternish” in its aroma profile for my palate.
1971 Staatliche Weinbaudomane Riesling Münsterer Dautenpflänzer Spätlese, 92 Points
Apparently this is Gut Herrmansberg today. Amber color. I felt this had a light off smell but it blew off in the glass. Notes of mushroom, damp forest floor and apricot. The sweetness here is very tamed with age as well.
1985 Grans-Fassian Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Spätlese Goldkapsel, 95 Points
Dark yellow. Expressive nose of lemon, cotton candy, apricot and quice. Fresh and youthful palate, bright acidity. Very plesant to drink, not too sweet.
Flight 2
1973 Eugen Müller Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Beerenauslese, 89 Points
Not related to Egon Müller. Amber color. Nose of bitter almond, saffron, botritis, lightly oxidativ. Fell apart in the glass pretty quickly.
1976 Hohe Domkirche-Trier Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese, 94 Points
Medium yellow. Orange, lychee and lemon in the nose. Very fresh on the palate, lots of acidity, light bitter note with anise on the finish. Lovely.
1989 Von Schubert Maximin Grünhäuser Herrenberg Riesling Auslese Nr. 94, 97 Points
Spectacular nose with petrol, lychee, white flowers and lime. Very fresh palate, intense acidity balancing the sweetness. Greatness in the glass.
1989 Grans-Fassian Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Auslese, 95 Points
Light Amber color. Saffron notes, botritis, smoke, apricot. Smells like a Sauternes but with more acidity on the palate. This is why I prefer Riesling in the “Moleeux” category.
Max Gerstl assessing the wines. The sweet German Rieslings carried their age well and were convincing us on every level
Flight 3
1983 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel, 96 Points
Dark yellow. Light patina on the nose with mushroom, apricot, quince. Spectacular acidity balancing the sweetness here. Very intense mouthfeel. 96+
1992 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese Auction, 95 Points
Dark amber color, much darker than the wines next to it of the same age, may be this did not have the best cork and aged faster. In any case aromas were still good with saffron, smoke, quince, leather, more Sautern than Riesling but with top acidity.
1993 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel, 96 Points
Medium yellow. Lifted nose with citrus, orchard fruit, quince, pear. Very precise and fresh palate. Not too sweet. Outstanding.
1992 Weingut Reinhold Haart Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel Auction, 94 Points
Medium-dark yellow. This has light patina with mushrooms, saffron, quite advanced, not as fresh as the Fritz Haag wines next to it.
Flight 4
1994 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel, 98 Points
Medium yellow. Exxpressive nose with ripe lemon, candied sugar, orange peel and pear, complex and intense aromatics. Spectacularly fresh palate, bracing acidity enveloping the sweetnes. Very grand. 98+
1988 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Lange Goldkapsel, Flawed
Unfortunately corked.
1990 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Lange Goldkapsel, 97 Points
Amber color. Max Gerstl commented that an Auslese LGK is more like a BA most of the time. We had the 1990 and 1992 side by side. Both were fantastic (97pt), hard to chose which one was better, may be the 1992, but only by a hair. Rich and sweet palate with apricot and fruit compote, very generous. There is bracing acidity as well, intense and complex mouthfeel and finish.
1992 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Lange Goldkapsel, 97 Points
Amber color. Max Gerstl commented that an Auslese LGK is more like a BA most of the time. We had the 1990 and 1992 side by side. Both were fantastic (97pt), hard to chose which one was better, may be the 1992, but only by a hair. Rich and sweet palate with apricot and fruit compote, very generous. There is bracing acidity as well, intense and complex mouthfeel and finish. 97+
Flight 5
1983 Staatsweingüter Eltville Rauenthaler Baiken Riesling Eiswein, 91 Points
Dark amber color. Some mushroom and musty notes here. Pleasant with dried fruit, but not the most clean wine.
1976 Weingut Louis Guntrum Niersteiner Orbel Silvaner Trockenbeerenauslese, 94 Points
This was the ringer, a Sylvaner. Dark amber. Interesting to taste this in the middle of all the Riesling. Much less acidity, this was immediately evident, but aromatically also very good with aromas of cake, molasses, tobacco.
1993 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Beerenauslese, 99 Points
Medium yellow. The Fritz Haag sweet wines really shined tonight combining complex aromatics with high intensity and very fresh mouthfeel through tons of acidity. This was the winner for me with apricot, smoke, saffron. Almost an elixir that you can drink spoon by spoon, but it is never heavy. Reminds me of the TBA from Egon Muller, same level of quality. 98-100
1995 Schloss Saarstein Serriger Schloss Saarsteiner Riesling Eiswein, 96 Points
Dark amber. Sweeter than the Auslese and BAs we had in the previous flights, but also here bracing acidity that comes with it and makes it interesting. Aromas of dried grapes, some medicinal notes as well together with ripe yellow fruit. Sweet, but not sickly sweet.
Author: Christian Raubach, WSET III, FWS, WSG Champagne Master
January 2024