Visit and dinner at the Chateau organized by the French wine journalist Jean-Marc Quarin (www.quarin.com) for a group of collectors from the Romandie. Paul Pontalier took us through the cellar and hosted a tasting dinner for us
Apéritiv
2010 Pavillon Rouge du Château Margaux 92 Points
Medium garnet. Nose of red fruit with some spices. On the palate quite light on its feed, good balance and present tannins that need further resolving. Of course in terms of length this had a hard stance against all the Grand Vins. Paul Pontalier chose the 2nd wine for this vintage because the Grand Vin 2010 is currently very closed.
Flight 1
2009 Château Margaux 99 Points
Vertical tasting / dinner at the Chateau. Expressive nose of cedar, cloves and red fruit. On the palate quite rich but elegant and savory at the same time, already enjoyable even though it is very young. A great Margaux in the making.
2008 Château Margaux 95 Points
Vertical tasting / dinner at the Chateau. Slightly reserved nose of red fruit with a touch of leather and spices. Medium bodied on the palate but good balance and soft tannins, still a wait though. This will be very classic, like the 04. This was indeed a good buy at the release price.
2007 Château Margaux 93 Points
Vertical tasting / dinner at the Chateau. Pleasant nose of red fruit with wood and spice box. Medium bodied with good balance and soft tannins, entering but still a bit young. Not as good on the mid palate as the better years but a very good performance for 07. Wait.
Flight 2
2006 Château Margaux 93 Points
Vertical tasting / dinner at the Chateau. Discrete nose of cloves, red fruit with flower notes, nicely perfumed. Quite rich at the entrance of the palate but without the complexity of the great years. Tannins still a bit young, wait.
2005 Château Margaux 96 Points
Vertical tasting / dinner at the Chateau. Reserved nose of red fruit and spices. On the palate still very young and reductive, not yielding much but most impressive material tucked underneath. Do not even think of opening this before 2020. 96-100
2004 Château Margaux 95 Points
Vertical tasting / dinner at the Chateau. This wine was very well priced upon release, let’s see what it can do now. Nose of red fruit with typical Margaux spice profile. Medium bodied with good balance and soft tannins, entering the drinking window now, decant for 1h. Classic, aromatic Margaux.
Flight 3
1989 Château Margaux 93 Points
Vertical tasting / dinner at the Chateau. Expressive nose of earth, red fruit with hints of spices and wood, now clearly a secondary aroma profile. Soft palate with good tannins and acidity. A good wine but I felt the today’s Margaux are much more precise on the fruit but I guess that is the case with almost all Bordeaux.
2003 Château Margaux 98 Points
This was the wine of the evening, even though Jean-Marc was the opinion that the 00 and 05 have more length. But tonight this was every one’s darling. Soft, lush, sexy with ample red fruit, toast, and sweet spices. 98+
Author: Christian Raubach, WSET III, FWS, WSG Champagne Master
December 2012