Domaine Leflaive: Burgundy’s White Wine Benchmark
Peter Büel and Dave Gregor organized this extensive comparison of Domaine Leflaive at Restaurant Wildenmann in Buonas. Few domaines occupy as exalted a position in Burgundy as Domaine Leflaive. Alongside Coche-Dury, Roulot and Ramonet, it belongs to the small group of producers that define the very highest level of Chardonnay in the Côte de Beaune. For many collectors, Leflaive is the reference point for Puligny-Montrachet, producing wines that combine extraordinary intensity, mineral precision and longevity while remaining remarkably light on their feet.
The history of the domaine stretches back to the early twentieth century when Joseph Leflaive, an engineer by training, began assembling what would become one of the greatest collections of vineyard holdings in Burgundy. Today the estate farms approximately 24 hectares, including some of the most celebrated terroirs in Puligny-Montrachet: Les Pucelles, Clavoillon, Les Folatières, Combettes, Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet, Bâtard-Montrachet, Chevalier-Montrachet and a share of Montrachet itself. Few domaines anywhere in the world can match the quality and concentration of such a portfolio.
Leflaive’s modern reputation was largely shaped by Anne-Claude Leflaive, who took over management of the estate in the early 1990s. A visionary and one of the most influential figures in modern Burgundy, she converted the vineyards to biodynamic farming long before it became fashionable. Her belief that great wine begins in the vineyard helped inspire a generation of growers throughout Burgundy and beyond. The resulting wines became renowned for their distinctive style: intensely aromatic, often marked by flinty reduction, yet always focused on finesse rather than power.
Premox era
Yet no discussion of Domaine Leflaive would be complete without addressing the shadow that hung over the estate from 1995 to 2015: premature oxidation. Like many leading white Burgundy producers, Leflaive suffered significant bottle variation and oxidation issues, particularly in wines produced between the mid-1990s and early 2010s. The problem became especially painful because the wines were among the most expensive and sought-after in Burgundy. Many collectors experienced heartbreaking losses, opening bottles that should have been entering maturity only to find them tired, oxidised or completely undrinkable.
The domaine’s response during this period added insult to injury. Anne-Claude Leflaive was widely perceived by collectors as reluctant to acknowledge the scale of the problem, often emphasising that oxidation was a broader Burgundy-wide issue rather than one unique to her estate. Whether entirely fair or not, this contributed to growing frustration among long-time customers, many of whom continued to lose bottles at an alarming rate. As a result, the phrase “premox” became almost inseparable from discussions of mature Leflaive for a generation of collectors. This is confirmed in todayy’s tasting. While the “correct” wines were great, there were at least six oxidized bottles in the line-up, some of it from reconditioned bottles – ouch!
Since Anne-Claude’s passing in 2015, however, the domaine has entered a new chapter under the leadership of her nephew, Brice de La Morandière. Working closely with technical director and winemaker Pierre Vincent (who moved to DRC in 2024), the estate has undertaken a meticulous re-evaluation of both viticulture and élevage. Numerous measures have been implemented to improve consistency and long-term bottle reliability, including refinements to pressing, élevage, sulphur management and, notably, the adoption of DIAM corks for part of the range. While no producer can completely eliminate bottle variation, confidence among collectors has improved markedly.
Remediation completed
Equally important, the quality of the wines themselves has reached extraordinary heights. Recent vintages such as 2017, 2019, 2020, 2022 and 2024 have reinforced the view that Leflaive is once again operating at the summit of white Burgundy. The wines retain the domaine’s historic signature of elegance, reduction and mineral intensity while displaying a level of consistency that many collectors believe was lacking during the most difficult premox years.
Today Domaine Leflaive stands as both a cautionary tale and a remarkable success story. Its wines remain among the most coveted in Burgundy, its vineyard holdings are virtually unmatched, and under Brice de La Morandière and Pierre Vincent the estate has largely restored confidence among collectors.
Tasting notes
Apéritif
2015 Domaine Antoine Jobard Meursault En La Barre – 94 Points
The first bottle was unfortunately oxidised and replaced. The second showed the vintage in a much more flattering light. A generous Meursault bouquet of lemon curd, citrus oil and toasted oak emerges from the glass, with the warmth and richness of 2015 kept firmly in check by excellent underlying acidity. Broad without becoming cumbersome, this is a very complete village Meursault and a fine reminder of how successful the vintage can be in the right hands.
Flight 1 – 1er Crus Flight I
2020 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet – 94 Points
A striking village wine. The nose immediately impresses with its purity and detail, offering white flowers, fresh citrus, subtle vanilla and sweet oak spices. The palate is remarkably refined, delivering impressive concentration without any excess weight. There is a sense of precision and polish here that would not embarrass many premier crus. Among the finest village Pulignys one is likely to encounter.
2015 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet – 92 Points
Showing a little more maturity and breadth than the 2020. Stone fruits have begun to emerge alongside citrus notes, while the palate is softer and rounder, reflecting the vintage. The proportions remain thoroughly Puligny, with elegance taking precedence over power. The acidity is slightly less pronounced than in the younger wine, making this approachable today, though it lacks some of the crystalline definition of the 2020.
2019 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet Clavoillon – 96 Points
A wine that once again demonstrates why Clavoillon is often one of the stars of the Leflaive portfolio. The bouquet is captivating, soaring from the glass with layers of citrus oil, vanilla, spice, fine oak and subtle reduction. On the palate there is a wonderful combination of energy and volume. While Clavoillon lacks the outright pedigree of Pucelles, it frequently delivers a disproportionate amount of pleasure, and this bottle was a perfect example. Spectacularly expressive and a clear crowd favourite, eliciting appreciative murmurs throughout the table. 96-97
Flight 2 – 1er Crus Flight II
2020 Domaine Leflaive Meursault Sous le Dos d’Âne – 92 Points
A more restrained wine aromatically, requiring patience in the glass. Citrus notes dominate the profile, supported by bright acidity and a distinctly linear structure. The palate is fresh and focused, though somewhat lean for a premier cru Meursault. Attractive and well-made, but overshadowed by some of the more complete wines in the flight.
2020 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet Clavoillon – 94 Points
Considerably more reserved than the brilliant 2019. Fennel, green herbs and subtle citrus notes emerge gradually. The palate is racy and energetic, showing notable tension and a distinctly youthful profile. A touch of asparagus and green apple appears on the finish. This feels very much like a wine still in its adolescence and should benefit from additional bottle age.
2020 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières – 94 Points
Clearly cut from the same cloth as the Clavoillon but with greater amplitude and depth. The extra volume across the mid-palate is immediately apparent, while retaining the tension and energy that define the vintage. Less overtly charming today than some older examples, but possessing the underlying material to develop into a superb bottle. 94+
2020 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes – 97 Points
The standout wine of the flight and a clear step up in refinement. The hallmark Leflaive paradox is on full display: extraordinary aromatic intensity coupled with remarkable lightness on the palate. Precision, elegance and detail are all elevated here. Everything seems perfectly proportioned, with exceptional length and effortless balance. A magnificent expression of Combettes.
An evening to both enjoy and inspect wines iwth luckily not too hot temperatures at lake Zug
Flight 3 – Spotlight on Les Pucelles
2020 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles – 95 Points
Still somewhat reserved aromatically, but displaying excellent freshness and considerable refinement. Green apple and citrus dominate the flavour profile. The palate is taut and energetic, finishing with impressive persistence. One senses there is considerably more to come with further ageing. 95+
2019 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles – 97 Points
The additional year and the generosity of the vintage have produced a noticeably more complete wine than the 2020. There is greater volume, more texture and a seductive creaminess layered over the citrus fruit. Butter, spice and mineral notes unfold seamlessly across the palate. This combines the stature of a grand cru with the finesse that makes Pucelles such a revered site. One of the wines of the tasting.
2014 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles – 94 Points
Still remarkably fresh and youthful. The structure is excellent and there is satisfying volume on the palate, but compared with the superb 2019 it lacks some aromatic intensity and emotional impact. Citrus, spice and mineral notes are all present and beautifully integrated, yet the wine remains more admirable than profound. A very fine bottle rather than a truly great one.
2012 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles – Flawed
Unfortunately a clear case of premature oxidation.
Flight 4 – 1er Crus Flight III
2016 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet Clavoillon – 97 Points
One of the revelations of the tasting. The bouquet is magnificent, combining lemon zest, green apple, fennel, vanilla and an abundance of flinty reduction. Complex, vibrant and still youthful. The palate carries both authority and energy, delivering everything one could hope for from mature Clavoillon. At moments it approaches the level of lesser grand crus. A spectacular bottle.
2013 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes – Flawed
A lovely nose remains, but early oxidative notes of bruised apple and nuts are beginning to emerge. Fortunately the wine remains drinkable, best appreciated alongside a cheese platter.
2010 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet Clavoillon – Flawed
Showing a similar oxidative profile to the 2013 Combettes, with walnuts and bruised apples dominating the aromatics. Still drinkable, but clearly beyond its optimal window.
1997 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles – Flawed
A reconditioned bottle, but sadly oxidation had already taken hold. Aromas very much in the Sherry spectrum.
And now for the big boys
Flight 5 – Batard Flight I
2019 Domaine Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet – 99 Points
An extraordinary wine and arguably the finest bottle of the evening. The nose is immediately compelling, displaying cream, lemon curd, vanilla, oak spice and remarkable depth. On the palate there is a clear increase in power relative to the premier crus, yet the wine never sacrifices elegance. Monumental in scale but perfectly balanced. A stunning Bâtard-Montrachet.
2014 Domaine Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet – 96 Points
Still surprisingly youthful and somewhat reserved. Green apple, citrus and subtle matchstick reduction dominate the profile. There is considerable material beneath the surface and this feels as though it is still holding much in reserve. A serious wine that may yet improve further.
2019 Domaine Leflaive Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet – 97 Points
Displaying the same irresistible aromatic profile found throughout the best 2019s, with citrus curd, spice, reduction and fine oak. Less broad and powerful than the Bâtard, but more graceful and perhaps even more refined. Exceptionally long and beautifully composed. This was the last of the 2019 bottles of the evening and it confirmed for this tasting the top place belonged to this vintage, by a margin.
2014 Domaine Leflaive Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet – 95 Points
Elegant, precise and finely balanced. The wine is light on its feet, though there is a slight dip through the mid-palate which prevents it reaching the heights of the best bottles on show. Excellent nonetheless, though I found the some of the premier Crus like the 2019 Clavoillon or teh 2020 Combettes more compelling on this occasion.
Flight 6 – Batard Flight II
2015 Domaine Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet – 98 Points
A magnificent expression of Bâtard. Flint, vanilla, oak spice and citrus all combine seamlessly. The palate possesses tremendous volume and concentration, yet remains remarkably controlled. The reduction is beautifully judged and contributes substantial complexity. A truly great bottle.
2008 Domaine Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet – 95 Points
Reconditioned bottle. One of the controversial wines of the evening. It showed quite a bit of patina but no acetaldehyde (oxidative) aromas. Notes of apple, passion fruit and preserved citrus, mushroom evoke mature Chenin Blanc at times. Complex, vibrant and characterful, though not on the same song sheet than the young, reductive, citrus oil styled Leflaives.
2012 Domaine Leflaive Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet – Flawed
Sadly heavily affected by premature oxidation.
2002 Domaine Leflaive Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet – Flawed
A reconditioned bottle showing clear oxidative development nevertheless.
A special thanks to Peter Büel (left) and Dave Gregor for organizing this wonderful evening
Author: Christian Raubach, WSET III, FWS, WSG Champagne Master
June 2026
