Millemann dinner

Millemann as one of Burgundy’s most intriguing insider names: a tiny, ultra-premium micro-négociant founded not by a wealthy investor or famous domaine owner, but by one of the region’s most respected consulting oenologists. Pierre Millemann grew up between Anjou and Alsace before studying oenology and working in Germany, Bordeaux and Champagne. Together with his wife Stéphanie, whom he met while working in the Jura, he founded Millemann Consulting in 2003, advising leading estates across Burgundy and beyond. After almost two decades helping others make great wine, Pierre launched Millemann Wines in 2017, with his wife Stéphanie and daughter Charlotte, with the ambitious goal of producing only tiny quantities of Burgundy from some of the region’s greatest terroirs.

What makes Millemann particularly fascinating is its positioning. Unlike a traditional domaine, the family owns virtually no grand cru vineyards. Instead, Pierre leverages decades-long relationships with top growers and clients to secure exceptional fruit from sites such as Chambertin, Bonnes-Mares, Clos de la Roche and Corton-Charlemagne, which he then vinifies himself. In Burgundy, the word “négociant” can still carry mixed connotations, but Millemann belongs to a new generation of ultra-quality micro-négociants (like Pacalet or Olivier Bernstein) where vineyard sourcing, obsessive élevage and microscopic production matter more than land ownership. The wines are produced in tiny quantities, often only one barrel, combining Pierre’s technical precision with a strong terroir-driven philosophy.

Among serious Burgundy fans, Millemann has become a cult name. The wines rarely attract the publicity of the great domaines, yet they are increasingly sought after by collectors who value rarity and craftsmanship. Critics have been enthusiastic: Decanter described the wines as “an absolute knock-out,” while merchant and critic commentary has compared Pierre’s standing among Burgundy insiders to some of the region’s most revered artisans. What is perhaps most striking is that the project remains a true family affair.

At the Zurich tasting, hosted by Stéphanie and Charlotte Millemann together with Alexandre Challand and Anthony Young of Vintage Investments, that family dimension was impossible to miss. Behind the grand cru labels and lofty prices stands a remarkably personal venture built on expertise, relationships and a relentless pursuit of excellence.

Wines tasted a the Zurich dinner (May 2026)

Whites

2023 Millemann Wines Puligny-Montrachet Sous le Puits – 92 Points
A fresh and racy Puligny, showing notes of citrus peel and lime. The acidity is particularly prominent, lending considerable tension and drive, perhaps slightly outstripping the concentration of the fruit on this occasion. Lean and precise, in a distinctly classical style.

2024 Millemann Wines Puligny-Montrachet Sous le Puits – 94 Points
The bouquet immediately offers aromas of lemongrass and grapefruit. There is excellent freshness throughout, yet the wine carries sufficient creaminess on the palate to absorb the lively acidity. Precise, energetic and persistent, with impressive aromatic length. A clear step up on the 2023.

2019 Millemann Wines Corton-Charlemagne – 96 Points
Noticeably broader and more authoritative than the preceding premier cru wines. The nose combines ripe lemon fruit with hints of white peach and stone fruit. There is excellent balance between ripeness and freshness, the concentration of the Grand Cru site matched by sufficient energy to keep everything in harmony. Long and complete on the finish.

Reds

2022 Millemann Wines Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers – 94 Points
A notably pure and aromatic expression of Cazetiers. Bright red fruits dominate, accompanied by subtle spice notes. There is an elegance and transparency here that recalls the style of Cécile Tremblay, favouring finesse over power. Graceful and refined.

2022 Millemann Wines Gevrey-Chambertin Les Champeaux – 94 Points
A richer and more structured wine than the Cazetiers, reflecting its heavier clay soils. Blind, one might easily place this further south in Corton. The tannic framework is clearly present but supported by ample fruit concentration. A more muscular interpretation of Gevrey, yet balanced throughout.

2024 Millemann Wines Corton Les Maréchaudes – 93 Points
Still rather reserved aromatically, revealing notes of sour cherry and fresh red fruits. The lighter profile of the 2024 vintage is clearly apparent. The tannins are surprisingly supple for Corton, a feature that has been managed particularly well. A wine built on finesse rather than power.

2023 Millemann Wines Clos de la Roche – 95 Points
An immediately attractive bouquet of cranberry, raspberry tart and baking spices, accented by a touch of vanilla. The tannins are notably gentle, allowing the wine’s charm to emerge early. Accessible and seductive without sacrificing seriousness, this is a thoroughly appealing Clos de la Roche.

2020 Millemann Wines Corton-Renardes – 94 Points
The bouquet remains firmly in the red-fruited spectrum, complemented by discreet earthy undertones. Pure and direct, with excellent transparency. The tannins are particularly fine-grained and polished, contributing to a wine of considerable harmony and class.

2020 Millemann Wines Bonnes-Mares – 96 Points
A highly expressive nose combining red and blue fruits with spice and gentle oak influences. Cherry fruit sits at the core, framed by floral and savoury nuances. The palate is poised and harmonious, showing both concentration and elegance.

2023 Millemann Wines Latricières-Chambertin – 96+ Points
An exceptionally floral bouquet, even more expressive than the Bonnes-Mares. There is impressive complexity already, delivered with a cool, composed authority. Refined and graceful rather than powerful, this dances across the palate with remarkable poise. A ballerina among grand crus.

2023 Millemann Wines Mazis-Chambertin – 98 Points
The nose is immediately captivating and reveals layer upon layer of fruit, spice and mineral complexity. Richer and smokier than the Latricières, this adopts a more expansive and complete expression. Despite its evident power and concentration, the wine remains remarkably weightless. A truly grand example of Burgundy.

2023 Millemann Wines Chambertin – 96-97 Points
Still firmly in its shell and requiring considerable coaxing to reveal itself. What emerges is a wine of immense precision and refinement, with every element perfectly aligned. The depth is evident but remains largely concealed at present. This will require at least another five years in the cellar before approaching its full potential.

Impeccable preparation at Hotel Storchen, Zurich.

 

Wines tasted at the Singapore dinner (2022 retrospective)

Whites

2019 Millemann Wines, Corton-Charlemagne – 97 points
12h+ decanted. Now this was grand white Burg. It combined the power of the 2019 with the freshness and elegance of the 2017. The nose was exuberant with a spicy top note, followed by citrus fruit and grassy elements. Powerful, yet airy. Very grand white.

2018 Millemann Wines, Corton-Charlemagne – 92 points
12h+ decanted. Juxtaposed between the stellar 2017 and 2019, the 2018 is solid but not in the same league. It is a touch too rich and ripe and does not possess the spicy and mineralic aromas of the other two wines either, let alone their great balance.

2017 Millemann Wines Corton-Charlemagne – 96 points
12h+ decanted. Rich and aromatic nose of spicy oak, lemon curd, orange peel ad a whiff of smoke. Airy on the palate, despite its Grand Cru weight. A very convincing white Burg.

Reds

2018 Millemann Wines, Chambertin Chambertin – 96+ points
6h decant. Initially a little more reticent than the 2017, took some time to open and the aroma profile is very different as well. Much more farmyard here intermixed with cured meat and red fruit. Wonderful complexity. 96+

2017 Millemann Wines, Chambertin Chambertin – 98 points
6h decant. This was the WOTN for many. Right from the start the aromas jump out of the glass with beguiling spice box, red fruit, earthy and herbal elements. Ethereal palate, light yet very present on the mid palate. Long mineralic finish. Reminded many of the Armand Rousseau Chambertin.

2019 Millemann Wines, Bonnes Mares – 93 points
6h decant. Tasted next to the 2018. This was the only wine pair where the 2018 had the edge. The 2019 felt a bit sweet and soft with lots of oak to integrate still, like a 2009 style wise. The tannins are polished and the mouth feel elegant, like with all other wines. Time will tell if all these elements integrate.

2018 Millemann Wines, Bonnes Mares – 95 points
6h decant. Tasted next to the 2019. A big step up from the Corton Reynardes This was also the the only pair where the 2018 had the edge over the 2019. Discrete but lovely nose of dark fruit with spices, some fig and plum. It is darker pitched like most wines of the vintage but stays elegant on the palate and has no sign of heat. Really nice.

2019 Millemann Wines, Corton-Renardes – 92 points
6h decant. This wine feels very young and primary. Aromatically not very interesting yet with mainly raspberry fruit and oak. The purity here is great as well as the polished tannins. I would drink this after 2030.

2018 Millemann Wines, Corton-Renardes Corton – NR
6h decant. First red. This was a little denser and warmer than the 2019. To me it had a TCA trace on the finish, but I was the only one thinking so. Anyway, otherwise I would score it around 92-93.

Author: Christian Raubach, WSET III, FWS, WSG Champagne Master
April 2026